@dbrn32 Here’s what I got. What do I take away from that DLI number? I know anything above 30 or even 40 will require Co2.
Whats a good number to hit for veg and for flower?
Also heres a pic of my driver. Is this a 2100ma?
Also heres a pic of my driver. Is this a 2100ma?
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No its not. I was right on the money lol
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Sorry @dbrn32 I had to fix the error and repost another pic. I edited my post can you take another look if you dont mind. What do I take away from that DLI number. You were on point sir.
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That’s ok, what you have is your ppfd average. Go and Google dli calculator now and plug the 765 into box that asks for ppfd.
Yes your driver 2100ma or 2.1 amps
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@dbrn32 Here it is. I also put 18 because thats how long I have my lights on for
DLI = 49.57
Any take aways?
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Looking good.
Here is a chart that came out, honestly I don’t know how accurate it is as we are waiting for Utah state to publish some findings as they said most plants can take 60 DLI without issues and be happy.
Again VPD needs to be on point and good airflow, basically at that point carbon dioxide becomes your limiting factor
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I agree. Anything above 40 is good, 60 is usually too much for home grow.
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Thanks a lot @Nicky, yeah if DLI is over 40 I read that I might need Co2 hmm. I thought it wasnt necessary unless im in a closed loop system
@dbrn32 I am extremely sorry for all the questions but I promise you im getting the hang of it.
Just to break down how you got the numbers, please if you dont mind helping me get those number
I understand you had to dig out some numbers from the spec on the 550 to get how much umols/s is being released in total as its the same 288qb that are in the 260 kits. The 550 has 4 boards so to get the umols for one you divided it by 4 which is 322.5.
the 260 kit has 2 boards so 322.5 x 2 thats 645, you gave me 640 umols per second ( full power)
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Should I keep that number in my notes for future reference when it comes to single 288QB?
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If im not running at full power, lets say for example 140w, How can I determine DLI since its not full power?
Is this where you got the 1290 PPF for the 550 and divided it by 4? This is their total output report on the 550
This is the last thing im trying to learn before going to bed today haha
Thanks again for all your answers and patience with me @dbrn32
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Wish I had the time to do a controlled experiment at home that was a big enough sample size to be statistically significant.
I would like to know the ideal amount of light each phase could handle in ideal home grown conditions
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I use one corrected for white leds. Unfortunately river claimed my phone and I need to go find and download again
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@dbrn32 No worries. Do you mind touching on the 3 questions I tagged you in, above the previous post.
This is will help me a lot in the future. Im leaving you alone after this haha
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Well you don’t. They use to have chart that gave data at popular currents. Or at least common meanwell driver currents. As current drops the light output drops, but it’s not linear because the light is more efficient at lower current.
I think they may still have chart for v2 non r-spec board up. Would be close anyway. Otherwise I usually thumb eyeball about a 10% gain in efficiency at a 50% reduction in power. So 2.65 umol/joule at 2100ma i would estimate at about 2.9 umol/joule at 1050ma. Not a perfect science that way, but will get you close.
In grand scheme, if you’re ballpark on most of this stuff is a victory.
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Damn dude, waaaay too much info for 6am!! Ill be busy all morning now reading through this.
Thew new commercial lights are awesome looking.
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heres a good vpd chart, you can change it for flower, veg clone, c, f leaf temp…all that.
pulse grow dot com
edit: removed link as unauthorized
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I tried looking at it and got me so confused. It seems like its setup for me to create one but not to follow. Is that right?
I have no idea what my leaf temp is lol
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Na you just enter veg or flower, Fahrenheit or Celsius. And you kinda have to know your leaf temp as that is what VPD is, its not the ambient temp, its the leaf temp. At least thats how i understand it. I think its like a few degrees less then ambient with leds, and its different with hps. Im sure someone else knows way more, but im pretty sure you go off leaf temp. Im still catching up on your convo from last night or whenever with dbrn about umols… i hope you understand it as we have the smae light…and i dont really get it.
Oops, i forgot we cant do any links…my bad…
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@BigHuff2316 Id read on VPD again if I were you. Stands for Vapor Pressure Deficit, it’s a way of calculating the exact combination of temperature and relative humidity to achieve absolute peak performance from a plant. It doesn’t measure the leaf temp
If you’re tent is at 25C or 26C you want to match it with the right RH and vice versa. That’s how you achieve good results. I never looked at the leaf’s temp
Thanks for that VPD source brother
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Funny you should say that, I’ve actually read a lot about it, and everything on figuring VPD for your grow space takes into account the temp of the leaf, thats why “leaf temp” is on a bunch of VPD charts as an adjustment…but hey im learning too and I hate conflicting info…so if everything ive read and watched is wrong let me know. Cause I just checked again…and yeah…leaf temp. Thats what mine is set to, so if its wrong…i needs to know. Its too damn hard to get straight info…every time i learn something someone else is like NOPE…lol
The DGC said to take the temp with a laser so you know the actual canopy temp at the leaf.
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