Is this normal in flowering?

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I’ve been told that some yellowing of fan leaves is normal in full flower. I’m worried because I just switched to a flowering nutrients, but yellowing has slowly progressed. Should I be doing something different? Nutes are high nitrogen and potassium.

Normally the yellowing is towards the end of flowering. Buds sucking all the energy from the leaves. I would check ph, ppm your run off all that good stuff.

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In general those are great looking plants. The yellowing is not normal tho for this stage of flowering. You want to lower nitrogen and raise potassium in flowering. The leaves will go yellow all over not just at the edges when they are done.

We should get a support ticket for you filled out. @garrigan65 is my go to guy for this type of issue. Be patient, it’s a holiday. Not sure where the link for the ticket is.

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@Stomper

Here is the Support Ticket for @bruinsfan33

Copy/Paste: This “Support Ticket” Into Your Forum Post.
Answer These Simple Questions The Best You Can.
If You Do Not Know, Or Do Not Use Something; Just Say So = Na

Strain; Type, Bag Seed, Or Na

Soil In Pots, Hydroponic, Or Coco?

System Type?

Ph Of Runoff Or Solution In Reservoir?

What Is Strength Of Nutrient Mix? Ec, Or Tds

Indoor Or Outdoor

Light System, Size?

Temps; Day, Night

Humidity; Day, Night

Ventilation System; Yes, No, Size

Ac, Humidifier, De-humidifier,

Co2; Yes, No

Add Anything Else You Feel Would Help Us Give You A Most Informed Answer. Feel Free To Elaborate, But Short, To The

Questions And Facts Will Help Us Help You 

Will

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Just waiting until I can be the first one to post that leaf-chart-thingy…

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Nute lock out must flush fast

When was last time you fertilized?

What did you use?

At what rate/concentration?

I’m wondering if it’s nutrient burn?

Hey Will,

I don’t want to contradict you but, The turned up leave tips are indicative of Nitrogen toxicity.

As far as I can tell. It would be nice to know what nutrients or fertilizer is being applied for us to make a more informed answer.

@mainah

I retracked my post and after futher review now say it’s

POTASSIUM

Potassium#2

Potassium plays a big role as well. Having good amounts of potassium in your plants helps in having sturdy and thick stems, disease-resistance, water respiration, as well aids in photosynthesis. Potassium is also found in the whole plant. It is necessary for all activities having to do with water transportation. Potassium is necessary for all stages of growth, especially important in the development of Buds.

Having to little of Potassium in your plants causes the plants leaves to show retarded growth and show a scorched tip and edges around the leaves. Plants may stretch and your branches can be easily broken or weak. Don’t get this deficiency confused with iron, because it almost acts like iron but to tell the difference in the two is: for potassium the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die. Older leaves may show a red color and leaves could curl upwards. Dead patches (Necrosis) can happen on the margins of larger fan leaves thus, the leaves will eventually die off and turn brown. The Older leaves will show different patches of color (mottle) and turn yellow between the veins, following by whole leaves that turn dark yellow and die. The plants overall growth slows down, mostly when they are in vegetative stage. To little amount of potassium also slows the growth of buds during flowering stages. Dark edges will appear around the edges of the leaf when the deficiency is starting to happen. When your Relative humidity is low, you can almost bet your going to soon get a potassium deficiency from your plants perspiration.
Potassium can get poorly absorbed when having too much Calcium or ammonium nitrogen, and maybe cold weather. Having to much sodium (Na) causes potassium to be displaced. SO keep those in mind… Parts affected by a Potassium Deficiency are: older leaves and leaf margins.

When you have too much Potassium in your soil, it can lead to big troubles, like salt damage and acid fixation of the root system, as well as too much potassium can cause a calcium deficiency. Your fan leaves will show like a light to a dark yellow to whitish color in between the veins. Due to a molecular imbalance, potassium toxicity can cause a reduced uptake and lead to the deficiencies of Mg, and in some cases, Ca. Also leads to the other nutrients to not be absorbed properly leading to lots of other deficiency such as: magnesium, manganese, zinc and iron and can cause problems with calcium as well.

Problems with Potassium being locked out by PH troubles
Soils with excessive Leeching and High ph soils and or water.Soils that are potassium fixated. An excess of kitchen salts (sodium) in the root system/enviroment.

Soil

Potassium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0-5.5
Potassium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-9.5. (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Potassium deficiency.

Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Potassium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0-4.5, 6.0-6.5.
Potassium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.7-5.3, 6.7-8.5. (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a potassium deficiency.

Solution to fixing a Potassium deficiency
Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have potassium in them will fix a potassium deficiency. Again Peters All Purpose plant food 20-20-20, will cure the potassium deficiency , Miracle grow Tomato plant food, Miracle grow All purpose plant food.( Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!) Some other supplements of potassium are: Wood ashes, which are fast absorption, Kelp Meal, which is medium absorption, Greensand, which is slow absorption, granite dust, which is slow absorption. Sulfate of Potash, Sulfate of Potash Magnesia, Muriate of Potash, which are medium absorption. FOXFARM GROW BIG HYDROPONIC CONCENTRATE, which is fast absorption. (FFGB can bring your ph down as well) Earth Juice Meta-K, which is fast acting. (Can bring down your ph as well) Leaves will never recover, but the plant will show recovery after about 4 to 5 days when using a fast acting nutrient.

Note: Wood Ashes, can make your ph go up a bit, so please monitor your ph when using it.
Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics, (which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) you need to flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.
Note: Wood Ashes, can make your ph go up a bit, so please monitor your ph when using it.
Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics, (which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) you need to flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.

Wrote by
Stitch
Posted by
Garrigan65

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@latewood, @Big123. I had Been using a liquid fish fert. Neptune harvest. Thought yellowing was due to changing over to full flower, so I purchased a flowering nutrient, sensi bloom. Not organic :neutral_face: this is higher in nitrogen. I’m confused… lol. I’m going to grow store later to pick up more sensi, now I’m not sure. Should I try flushing before I continue with nutes?

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nice, i copied and saved this for my own reference
Good Advice :smile:

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