Is this nitrogen deficiency

My lower leafs are turning yellow and drying up. I feed them a higher dose of general hydroponics (all 3 ,higher on the macro).just wondering how long does it take for the plant to recover. I want to put them on flowering.

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They look a like so don’t get fooled

Phosphorus (P) Mobile Element and Macro Element

Benefit: Phosphorus does a lot of things for the plant. One of the most important parts of Phosphorus is: It aids in root growth and influences the vigor of the plant and is
one of the most important elements in flowering as well helps to germinate seedlings.
Phosphorus is an essential plant nutrient, and since it is needed in large amounts, it is classified as a macronutrient. Phosphorus is a MAJOR important nutrient in the plants reproductive stages. Without this element the plants will have a lot of problems blooming without proper levels of Phosphorus.

When your plants are deficient in phosphorus, this can overall reduce the size of your plants. Not enough causes slow growth and causes the plant to become weak, to little amount of Phosphorus causes slow growths in leaves that may or may not drop off. The edges all around the leaves or half of the leaves can be brownish and work its way inwards a bit causing the part of the leaves to curl up in the air a bit. Fan leaves will show dark greenish/purplish and yellowish tones along with a dullish blue color to them. Sometimes the stems can be red, along with red petioles that can happen when having a Phosphorus deficiency. This isn’t a sure sure sign of you having one though, but can be a sign. Some strains just show the red petioles and stems from its genes.
So pretty much the overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint to the fan leaves is a good sign of a Phosphorus deficiency. Having Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can make phosphorous absorption very troublesome for plants.
Many people get a Phosphorus deficiency confused with a fungus problem because the ends of the leaves look like a fungus problem, But the damage occurs at the end of the leaves. side of the leaves and has a glass like feeling to it as if it had a ph problem. Parts affected by a phosphorus deficiency are: Older Leaves, Whole plant, Petioles.

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Here is a list of things to help fix a Phosphrus Deficiency.


Advanced nutrients Bloom (0-5-4)
Vita Bloom (0-7-5)
BC Bloom (1.1-4.4-7)
GH Flora Bloom (0-5-4)
GH Maxi Bloom (5-15-14)
GH Floranova Bloom (4-8-7)
Dyna-Gro Bloom (3-12-6)
Fox Farm Tiger Bloom (2-8-4)
Awsome Blossums


Dr. Hornby’s Iguana Juice Bloom (4-3-6)
Advanced Nutrients Mother Earth Bloom (.5-1.5-2)
Fox Farm Big Bloom (.01-.3-.7)
Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1)
Pure Blend Bloom (2.5-2-5)
Pure Blend Pro Bloom (2.5-2-5)
Buddswell (0-7-0)
Sea Island Jamaican Bat Guano (1-10-0)
Indonesian Bat Guano (0-13-0)
Rainbow Mix Bloom (1-9-2)
Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1)
BIO BLOOM (2-6-3.5)
AGE OLD BLOOM (5-10-5)

Any of these will cure your phosphorus deficiency. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new growth will appear normal.

Now if you added to much chemical ferts and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.

Note: Blood Meal, Dried Blood, Guanos, Kelp Meal, Cotton Seed Meal, Peat Moss,
Sulfur and fish meal are all acidic and can bring your ph down, so if you add these please monitor your ph when using those.

Note: Bone Meal, Rock Phosphate, Wood Ashes pretty much all ashes, Shellfish Compost and Crab Meal are all alkaline and can make your ph go up, so if you add any of these please monitor your ph.

hope this helps add don’t feed her any more for a while ok



Thanks @garrigan62
I don’t think you forgot anyone hahahahaha


Great information!

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Awesome. Thanks you. You guys think I should wait on switching them to flowering

@garrigan62 just wanted to say thanks for all the tags, it really says a lot about someone who allways tags so many people to make sure we get to read something are be apart or it . I would miss a lot of stuff lately if u didn’t. . So once again Thank You.


I have many questions for you. 1st I recommend you go and copy/paste an “ILGM Support” ticket and fill it out.


  1. Why are your leaves wet? Wetting leaves is a bad practice that can lead to mold and mildew.

  2. What exaxct nutreints are you using at what does, and how old are the plants?

If you fill out a supprt ticket; NO need to answer the 2 Q’s :slight_smile:


COPY/PASTE: This “Support Ticket” into your forum post.
Answer these simple questions the best you can.
If you do not know, or do not use something; Just say so = NA

Strain; Type, Bag seed, or NA. White widow,super skunk,super silver haze

Soil in pots, Hydroponic, or Coco? Soil

System type?n/a

PH of runoff or solution in reservoir?n/a

What is strength of nutrient mix? EC, or TDS n/a

Indoor or Outdoor. Indoor tent

Light system, size? Hid 600w

Temps; Day, Night. Day76. Night 71

Humidity; Day, Night day56 night49

Ventilation system; Yes, 6" inline fan with carbon filter and 2 fans


Co2; No

Oh, i thought i had to spray them twice a day. I’ve been spraying them with ro water with seaweed extract. I’ve gave them general hydroponics all 3 bottles at 1tps a gallon. When I noticed the yellow leafs I raised them up to 3 tps of each bottle per gallon. My last feed, I added molasses at 1 tbls per 1 gallon. Plants are 4 weeks old

Awesome info.

Thanks for the tag man always appreciate a good chance to learn

Thanks for the add Will, Great info.


Can you tell me about the molasses? I’ve been using “natural” fertilizers, urine and aloe at first, then organic bone meal and such later on. What does the molasses do; what nutrients does it carry?

It’s suppose to increase tricone production.

Molasses, a highly viscous by-product of sugar refinement, is a great supplement for improving your garden. Molasses is rich in both micro- and macro- nutrients, is a great source of carbohydrates for soil microbes, and subsequently boosts the structure and moisture retention of the medium, and encourages growth of beneficial organisms. Molasses also aids in the reduction of salt build up, which is a common cause of nutritional problems, and is a useful insect repellent. While microbes thrive on the sugars in molasses, ingesting molasses for an insect is imminent death (Excluding Sugar Ants and Bees).

Not all molasses is the same, however. Some are made to a lesser quality, and may contain preservatives and other chemical additives that are unwanted in the garden. There are two types of molasses: Sulphured and Unsulphured. While both of types do contain sulphur, the major distinction is that sulphured molasses contains sulphur dioxide, which acts as a preservative and anti-microbial substance. This means that sulphured molasses will actually kill the microbes you are trying to feed. So make sure that you only use unsulphured, organic molasses. There are three grades of molasses, from lighter to darker: mild (a.k.a Barbados), dark, and blackstrap. Blackstrap molasses is preferred for its higher mineral and vitamin content. Blackstrap is high in calcium, magnesium, iron, potassium, and micronutrients.

There are multiple ways to incorporate molasses into your garden. It is often used as part of a regular feeding schedule, in foliar sprays, composts and compost teas, and during soil preparation. Dosage is determined by personal experience: Each garden and plant is different, some may prefer a larger or smaller dosage depending on their environment, health, size, and age/stage. To be safe, using a starting point of 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of molasses per gallon (3.8 liter) of water for feedings is a good rule of thumb. It is recommended to increase molasses dosage as the flower stage progresses, as the plant will require more potassium. Using small dosages will help prevent any unnecessary risks such as stress or nutrient burn, and allow you to correctly determine a favorable future dosage. For use as an insecticidal foliar spray, 1 teaspoon (5ml) per gallon is recommended.*Mix molasses in lukewarm water before adding to reservoir, bucket, or spray bottle to allow it to fully dissolve.

There’s also Dry molasses, which isn’t actually dried molasses – It’s a grain residue carrier that has been drenched in liquid molasses. Dry molasses contains more sugar than liquid molasses, but can’t be mixed into water. It’s recommended to apply 1 lbs. of dried molasses per 50 sq. ft.

The benefits of molasses will be most noticed during the flowering period. Molasses can also be added/combined with other organic liquid fertilizers and sprays, such as compost teas, kelp, alfalfa, and milk. It is also safe to use molasses at the same time as nutrient feeds, however it may subsequently cause fluctuation in soil pH, so it is important to remember to check run-off pH. Using molasses on just-water days or during a flush is also beneficial.

For the outdoor grower, it’s important to note that molasses is commonly used by hunters to attract game, so be aware of your local wildlife, or they may end up eating your crop!


So, I checked my ph and tds. Ph is good but my tds is in the 200’s. Does that mean to keep feeding nutrients every watering until it goes up?

update day BV 37

I have marked the ones that are BV in soil. My all plants have been given a shot of tea which is: fish 5.1.1 Bat Guano ( Mexican ) worm castings and two caps of Hydrogen peroxide.
All plants received this today.


Getting worse. Last 2 feedings included general hydroponics nutrients. What’s else can I do