Thank all! @Myfriendis410, @basementstealth @pptrsha1
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@Myfriendis41, is it possible that you can explain to me the basic ânutes 101â? I mean I know what they are but I donât know how to use them if you know what I mean.
Also the whole PH deal. What levels are good what levels are bad
I think I am at kind of a stand still on plant growth on the flowering plant, so I am suspecting maybe a lock out( not showing any deficiencies signs but just not growing)
And finally humidity. Itâs not very humid in my house? Maybe 20% is that something I should be worrying about or is that a blessing in disguise?
Appreciate your opinions thanks
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Tried to tag ya but forgot the â0â lol
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Assuming you are in soil like FFOF, the media has been loaded with the correct mix of supplements to support the plant all the way to flower. You are right in that cannabis is a âweedâ and will grow outside nominal conditions but we donât put regular gas in a race car lol: we optimize for the application.
Cannabis needs to be in a media with a PH range of 6.3 to 6.8 to make the nutrients soluble in water and available to the plant. Being outside of range will cause a cascade of problems that can be tough to tease out the root cause.
Problems occur with new growers as they want to love on their plants and tend to go overboard. Too high a nutrient load will damage the plant and produce small flowers with harsh flavors.
When the plant is in veg it needs to be supported with Nitrogen (which in any published nutrient line will be present in the âGrowâ part of the formula) as the plant matures itâs demand for N decreases and Phosphorus and Potassium (P and K) goes up as they flower. This will peak a few weeks before harvest and the plant will slow down itâs metabolism as it consumes itself and prepares to die.
Using good ingredients designed for cannabis with good published data is a really wise idea until you gain experience with the plant and itâs nuances. I didnât really begin to relax until the third or fourth grow, myself. Now itâs pretty Zen.
When in doubt, water less and use less nutrients. Let your plant tell you what it wants.
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So basically I do not need any nutes with ffof?
Bc I have been putting some in sparingly. I was gonna try a 50/50 coco ffof in 3g soft pots. Is that advisable? I have the 4 auto plants are about the same age give or take a week but all of my photos, are ready to come out of the Dixie cups and go into a veg tent that is where I was gonna use the 50/50. Iâve head so much good about coco but l too want to feel âZENâ lol. I donât wanna push it I just wanna cruise and soak up knowledge where Iâm comfortable in any grow. Just looking for pointers, doâs and donât, and a possible mentor to guide me through
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this is where Iâm at so far. I think I stressed that plant to flower by accidentally ruining a 8â root during transplant. It was not intentional as you can see with the other plants, I have forgone larger pots. Other wise I thought everything looked heathy. I have been giving plants nutes once a week(mixing in a gallon container and giving each plant 32 oz each) then Iâll water once later in the week. I hear ppl saying water till something comes out the bottom but Iâve never done that so I must be under watering yes? If you see anything that doesnât look right will you point it out. Thanks @Myfriendis410
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If you add nutes to ffof you risk burning her roots, frying her leaves, and making a harsh smoke from her budsâŚ
Curious how you went about doing your transplant? Did you move the entire plant/roots with all soil from smaller pot to bigger pot? Usually roots are only minimally affected during transplant by carefully removing it all and putting in hole big enough in new pot to accept entire soil from smaller pot.
Growing in living soil I donât ever water to run off and all that extra work required when using synthetic nutrients.
Maybe youâll want to add some water to the saucers to let the soil wick it up from the bottom it takes some time for that to happens 10-20 min adding more if she takes it all etc this way youâll be sure that the soil is fully saturated and the roots will seek down for the water too.
When transplanting youâll want to have the new soil already wet before transplant.
Hope this helps
No; you are doing just right. You really canât water to runoff until the plant grows to fill the pot. Once the root mass matches the pot you can water to runoff.
If you are in FFOF you should not be doing any feeding: just water. I know itâs âsexyâ to nuke the plants but they just canât take it. FFOF is plenty hot enough and some would say too hot.
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Ok great thank u all
@Skydiver when I was transplanting 1/4 of the dirt broke off and fell to the ground pulling with it the root that was entwined in it. I was crushed. The plant instantly started flowering the next day
Literally it felt like my best friend just diedđż
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And what determines when a plant has outgrown a pot or is âroot boundâ
Ouch
Next time be aware of the soil being too dry or too wet. Also what was the smaller container is made out of. I usually use Cow pots for the seedlings if not planting popped seeds directly into their final homes. With cow pots you just dig a hole in the larger pot big enough to fit the entire cow pot (like peat pots only better) and doesnât effect the roots at all.
Iâve also used 1 gallon cloth pots and that is a little trickier but again getting the soil moist enough helps along with thinking of eating one of those push up type popsicles when removing it and then turning it over with hand on top of soil once the sides and bottom have been loosened and the popsicle has moved up several inches. Just takes practice.
Yea autos donât like stress and can switch quicker because of it. My last auto run the starter soil PH was low and I didnât know until I had issues and most started flower too early and ended fine just smaller and lower yields.
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General Rule of thumb with transition pots (smaller ones) is when the branches/leaves are extending past the sides of that pot then roots will be hitting the sides of the pot.
Once in final pots they will do that too but if in big enough pots thatâs thatâŚlol
Usually grow my autos in 3 gallon pots but the bigger the pot the bigger the plantâŚ
5 gallon pot
45 gallon pot with 3 plants
Theses are all Photo plants
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This time I used 1 gal flimsy plastic pots and pre cut them so I could just snip the two âhanger onsâ leave the perforated bottom in the next pot up and just pull the rest of the smaller pot out of the big pot and new soil! Sound like a winner. Haha? Sometimes I outsmart myself! Again thank you guys for all your help. Iâm just getting to my photo grow itâs been just under 2 weeks. 11 of the 15 seeds I bought from ilgm have sprouted. For some reason only one of the LSD strain sprouted. I bought the DEA pack. Gr. Cr, LSD, and Chem D. I did them all exactly the same so who knows. I will definitely be asking questions every day so I hope no one gets annoyed!
At what point do I transplant from cup to pot. They are all about the same size
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Many here that put seedlings in plastic solo cups use the clear ones to plant in so they can see the roots and then use a red one on the outside to keep light off the rootsâŚI hate plastic and avoid as much as I can âŚso I use cow pots.
Once the plants leaves are at/extending past the sides of cup that will key you into moving them up.
Looks like they have another couple weeks yet but depends on how fast they grow and one can be faster than another even if same strain.
You do have drainage holes on the bottom and lower sides of those cups correct.
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