Is there anyone familiar with Monster Cropping that can guide me?


#1

I have been watching videos and trying to read through posts on here. But was wondering if there is a type of tutorial?
I was planning on monster cropping 5 photos 3 weeks since flip. I know you want at last 3 nodes above your cut. Cut at a 45 about an inch below bottom node. Then place in water. PH your rockwool cubes and soak. Now shave at bottom 45, cut bottom 2 leaves and shave them for root sites. Dip in rooting gel place in cube. Cut any larger leaves tips off. Place in tray with a little water in bottom. Mist with Ph’d water and then dome. What kind of temps and humidity do I want? And how many hours of light and for how long before you flip? And nutes, when do you reintroduce them? How close do the lights need to be to the dome? I was going to veg them with 2 blurples 1500w and 1000w and just to quote @dbrn32 so he knows I’m paying attention. "Those aren’t actual watts.":wink:
Had to kill 3 males after a long veg so I thought why not try monster cropping in their place. So I am all ears and eager to learn.


#2

I have also been working on monster cropping, well somewhat. I havnt been giving them the best attention but you want to keep temps up around 80-81 and humidity as high as you can, 80-90%. Also put them under a T5 light or a couple 6500k CFL bulbs at 24hours on. They do take longer than reg clones to root also, use clone rooting powder or gel too.


#3

I have a few going I used a bubble bucket I made but same theory. I used both gel and powder and rapid rooters kept domed, foliage misted couple times a day until rooted and planted. They will look very weird at first growing odd finger leaves but once they take off they blow up. I’ll try to remember to snap a pic of the babies when lights come on.


#4

I have never monster cropped. But you may find a lot more information just looking for cloning info. The only real difference between cloning and monster cropping is that with the latter you are taking from a flowering plant.

The major difference that you’ll see is that it will take longer for the monster crop clone to revert to veg and root. Otherwise you’re going to use roughly the same process as cloning from a vegging plant. Except for maybe taking a little larger clone.

What you have typed out seems pretty good. What I like to do is have a glass of ph’d water on standby when I’m ready to cut. Clean the life out of your cutting device. Once I cut. I place clone immediately into that cup of ph’d water. I leave them sit there for 15-20 minutes while I’m getting all my cuttings and getting cubes together. Then pull them out one by one and scrape base and put them into cube or whatever.

That water dip will help them from getting an embolism and increased my rooting success rate a lot.


#5

Well @QtPatooty

This is your lucky day cause I did this monster cropping a few years back and I have some info for ya. i’m going to post it below and it’s kinda long but you can copy and paste it to your files OK ?
If I can find the thread I did on monster cropping I’ll post that for ya as well

Monster Cropping (a.k.a. Flowering Clones) is new method of growing
that one of our members brought to my attention. Monster Cropping
essentially involves taking clones from flowering marijuana plants,
and then rooting those clones. They will reenter vegetative state

and eventually create super-bushy plants with a large amount of nodes
and branches. This method was dubbed “Monster Cropping,” because that’s
exactly what you’ll end up with—huge, monster plants.

Flowering plants typically aren’t a source for clones, and most experts
will tell you that it goes against most rules of cannabis cultivation.
Even so, the science behind Monster Cropping is legitimate, and you will
certainly enjoy the results.

Start by taking clones of a marijuana plant that is about 3 weeks (21 days)
into the flowering stage. This is usually the ideal time to take the clones,
but you can also take clones later on without affecting the results. Lower
branches are ideal for cloning because they haven’t become stiff, and they
will root faster than something like the top cola. Take the cutting and place
it in a glass of water. Let it sit there for some time so that no air finds
its way into the vascular system (a problem that can be fatal for the plant).
The cut needs to be made along the stem so as to increase the surface area for
the uptake of water and/or nutrients (depending on the cloning technique you’re using).
In my own experience, a small hydroponic system or a propagation bubbler is easily
the best option for cloning marijuana plants. Download my free grow guide for more
tips and tricks at this link.

You will have to go back to a vegetative light schedule for the clone (18/6, 20/4, or
24/0).
These clones won’t need much light, and you can get away with using a single small CFL bulb.

Removing buds at this point will encourage the plant to go back to the vegetative state,
but do not mess with the flower on the apex.
The clones should root in several weeks’ time, but some will never take root.
To combat this, make sure you take a large number of clones so that at least
one will take root and survive. You may want to put the clones inside of a humidity dome.
These can be found at gardening centers or you can custom build one to meet your own needs.
The increased humidity of the dome ensures that the plants won’t dry out, wither, and die.
Be sure to ventilate the dome each day to avoid a mold infestation.

The most important aspect of cloning is to give the cuttings enough oxygen. A propagation bubbler
is perfect for doing just that.
The marijuana clones won’t be anything spectacular to begin with, but, when they root, they will
start reverting into vegetative state. The clones will start growing once they’ve rooted adequately,
and they will produce single un-serrated leaves to begin with. Normal leaves will start to follow
soon after. Applying some training might be wise during this stage. Simply tie down some of the tops
to encourage an increase in branching. Adding a little heat underneath the clones will increase the
rate of the rooting process substantially.

As the marijuana plant starts to grow, the amazing branching power of your flowering clone makes
itself known. The plants will turn into genuine monsters, and you don’t even have to top the plant.
The great thing about this method is that you can avoid topping and fimming altogether because the
flowering clone produces tons of new branches on its own.

This plant is ready for a SCROG or maybe a SOG technique. This single plant can take up all the
space in a SCROG net in a relatively short amount of time. Many of the plants grown in SOG will
certainly provide a bountiful harvest.

Another benefit to Monster Cropping is that you don’t have to keep any mother plants around.

When the clones go through vegetative state and enter flowering stage, they can give you
even more clones.
The never-ending harvest is recycling at its most efficient. For anyone who needs to limit
the amount of
plants they have, this idea has significant merit.

All in all, the effectiveness of this technique is largely due to the heavy branching
produced by flowering
clones that have reentered vegetative state. With some practice and patience, you can get
some fantastic
monster plants and a gargantuan monster harvest.

If you want start growing, download my free grow guide and order some marijuana seeds at
this link here.
We ship seeds to the US, CA and many other countries. For any growing related question
please visit the
marijuana support page.

Robert

Enjoyed my article? Share it with your friends. Click a social button down here and make
the world a greener place

13 thoughts on “Monster Cropping Marijuana Plants”

latewood latewood says:

May 1, 2014 at 00:06
Reply

I have done this a few times with success. I would like to add; I actually have
taken cuttings during flower stage, and placed directly into moist soil pot. I left clones
in the flower room under 12/12; Shorter photo periods promote faster root growth. Now; I did
not get a lot of bud at 1st.

The plant rooted and then began to grow new leaf sets, which are imperative for re-vegitating
the plant.
At the end of the grow; I remove the bud, but left all the other foliage. This turned into a
re-vegitated Mom,
from which I took cuttings and cloned them. Once in a 5g bubbler, I grew one of these clones
to a LB. yield “dry”.
Using my Dutch Master Formula. Try it out. You will like this technique. Good stuff!


#6

@Liljoe @Midwestnewbie do y’all have journals because if so I would like to follow your grows. I am worried about temp. control. How about heating mat are those necessary? And when you revert to veg. about how long do you keep in veg. before you return to flower? Kinda trying to figure out timeline.


#7

@dbrn32 can always depend on you for your best answer. Even if you don’t monster crop. Sounded like good advice to me. Just didn’t know if flowering clones were treated differently then veg.'d clones. Thanks again kind sir.:hugs:


#8

Thanks @garrigan65 can always depend on you for the most thorough and longest responses covering the topic at hand then some.:slight_smile: I plan on reading your grow and hopefully pick up on some more super tips that you didn’t cover here. Thanks again “Obi-Weed Kenobi” our Jedi Weed Master…:clap:


#9

I think just that you would take an extra node or two. The others have some good info too.


#10

I do not have a journal but may create one. I’ll let the ones I have go for about a month. I’m trying something a lil different as I put one into ffof and one in the amended pro mix I generally have used. The one in the ffof is going to be a true monster. The other is behind but was behind in rooting as well. This is my first attempt at clones and will definitely take a lot longer to reveg. Temps are standards at around 70-78* keeping my rh close to 40-50% after removing dome. But honestly I’ll try to do this with every strain I want to keep around for a while. The ones I have are Northern Lights that were supposed to be autos be ended up being photos. @peachfuzz does a lot of cloning as well. @dbrn32 is always spot on in his assessments.


#11

I think it would be awesome if you created one. You would for sure have at least one follower, me😊.


#12

@QtPatooty

Thank You for that nice remark.
Oh I have even more that will help you out and as a mater of fact you now have me thing of doing one myself once my baby’s get into flower which won’t be to much longer.
You know what the heck why not and i’ll share pic’s and my technique that I use how’s that ?

I’ll post more on this Monster Cropping in a little while for ya ,you think that was large lol


#13

That sounds perfect. I will be waiting…:nerd_face:


#14

Here ya go no more waiting … lmao

Grow Monster – Size Marijuana Plants to Get More THC and Weight

By John Foster

We keep talking about what makes your biggest yields of the most potent marijuana.

People argue about it night and day…it is the genetics, is it how you grow your plants or ?!?

The answer is, it’s genetics AND it’s how you grow your plants.

We’ve focused previously on big-yielding genetics, giving you marijuana strains most
likely to grow big and yield heavier harvests with more THC.

Today we talk about three factors you control: lighting, root zone, and nutrients.
These three make the difference between bad, acceptable, and fantastic yields.

I like to keep things simple when they can be. You need one 1000-watt HID bulb per
every 14 square feet if you want enough light to power full size monster marijuana plants.

This bulb has to have a great reflector to directionalize the light. And the bulb
has to be engineered for marijuana, either MH for grow phase or HPS for bloom phase.

If you have extremely dense or tall marijuana plants, you may need vertical or side
lighting. You could use LEDs for that, but it has to be the right LEDs.

You also need to open up the root mass so it has more room. Instead of growing
12 plants in 5-gallon pots, grow six plants in 10-gallon pots.

Better yet, grow three marijuana plants in 20-gallon grow bags. The bigger the
roots, the more top growth you can expect.

Feed your roots beneficial microbes like Voodoo Juice and Piranha, don’t drown
them, and trim your plants early so they get bushy instead of 20 feet tall.

The other big factor you control is your plants’ nutrition. If you use inferior
hydroponics nutrients, or have the wrong root zone pH or other problems (especially
during grow phase), your plants may never get as big as they could have gotten.
They’re permanently stunted.

What a lot of marijuana growers forget is that their plants will gain at least
50% more height after bloom phase starts, so proper nutrition is essential.

Only a company like Advanced Nutrients has figured out the right mix of N-P-K
and other nutrients (not just in base nutrients but when base nutrients are
combined with bloom boosters) to fuel structural growth AND floral potency
during early and peak bloom phase.

So we see that there are four factors to growing really big cannabis plants

  1. Trim them early to promote round canopy and multiple heads.

  2. Feed the highest quality hydroponics base nutrients and supplements while maintaining
    ideal pH with base nutrients such as “pH Perfect” so your plants can take in
    all they need whenever they need it.

  3. Give your plants massive doses of high-intensity light.

  4. Feed your roots with beneficial fungi and bacteria, along with a carbo booster

like Bud Candy, and give your cananbis roots more room to grow.

Especially in states where you can only have a few plants to stay legal, growing larger
marijuana plants makes huge sense!


#15

One More for ya. More to come in a while got to go and fix my truck … lol

monster_marijuana

The 5 Best Strains For Growing Monster Marijuana Plants

By Steve Davis

Marijuana growers often wonder what makes the difference in whether or not
they’re able to grow monster plants that produce many ounces or even pounds per plant.

Marijuana genetics make an important difference in yield and THC percentages…the
strains we recommend in this article have genetics that make them more likely to
grow big and produce larger buds and more THC than other strains.

But we also realize that how and where you grow marijuana makes as much difference

as the strains of marijuana you grow.

In general, unless you have a very large grow room with high ceilings and lots of

HID lights, you won’t get as many grams per plant indoors than you would if you’re growing outdoors.

Similarly, if you use professionalized hydroponics nutrients and supplements such

as pH Perfect hydroponics base nutrients, Big Bud, Bud Factor X rather than
Miracle-Gro or other schwag fertilizers, you’ll see healthier plants and bigger yields.

It also helps if you properly top and trim your marijuana plants early so they

develop multiple main stems instead of the Christmas tree shape that most
marijuana plants develop into if they’re untrimmed.

Another way to get monster cannabis plants is to provide more room for their

roots, and to feed the root zone beneficial microbes such as Voodoo Juice

(along with a booster like Roots Excelurator) so roots get bigger and can support more top growth.

Now here are some marijuana strains that have the genetic tendency to go

big and produce large plants and harvests…

PLUSHBERRY: From the legendary TGA Subcool seed company, this one has
beautiful coloration and two main phenotypes with the Indica-dominant

phenotype producing massive yields indoors or outdoors.

Check the many YouTube and other online reports from satisfied marijuana
growers who love Plushberry. TGA Subcool have told us recently that high

demand for their seeds is creating shortages of some key strains.

If you’re unable to get Plushberry, go for TGA Subcool Agent Orange,

another plant legendary for growing large and producing heavy, thick, premium buds.
Subcool also says check out his Jesus OG Kush. “Expect harvests so big they’ll bury you in sticky goodness.”

JACK HERER: Originally created by Sensi Seeds, but now better sourced as a
clone or from USA breeders rather than from Sensi Seeds, Jack Herer marijuana
has a proud heritage including some of the best old school genetics from the 1960s and 70s.

When you feed it Bud Candy, Big Bud, and Overdrive in a properly lit indoor
garden with C02, or growing outdoors in moderately-warm and dry climates,
you get super-large yields, and the high is heavenly.

Jack Herer carries some Haze and other Sativa genetics, so be prepared to top
and train vigorously, or to see it go tall if untopped and especially outdoors.

Jack Herer marijuana has a powerful Haze scent while growing, and especially
when you properly dry and cure your Herer buds.

CINDERELLA 99: This is a legendary heavy yielder with a short (50-63 day)
bloom phase, which makes it nice for outdoor growers who want their buds
ready for harvest before autumn rains come in.

This cannabis strain contains Jack Herer influences, but does not stone you
like Jack Herer. It has its own unique high.

PINEAPPLE EXPRESS: Probably even better than the marijuana strain you saw
in the Seth Rogen and James Franco movie version, this one was at first a
mutt knock-off that people bred so they could capitalize on the movie’s popularity.

Today, Pineapple Express is one of the most fun marijuana strains. It has
a 55-65 day flowering time and benefits from Bud Candy and B-52 supplements during bloom.

WHITE WIDOW: Used to be that almost every marijuana grower was growing or
had grown this famous strain. In the last couple of years you see less

White Widow, but it’s a mistake to forget this heavy-yielding, easy to grow,
crystally marijuana strain.

You can now procure new-style White Widow seeds and clones. Breeders adjusted
the amount of Indica genetics, adding a hint more Sativa so the high is more uplifiting than before.

This marijuana is also known for its major amount of resin glands, so it’s often
grown for hashish production.

Please remember as we said earlier, genetics alone aren’t the sole determiner
of whether you’ll grow monster marijuana plants or harvest monster yields.

Also note that many of the strains that produce the largest yields are Indica-dominant,

which means a different kind of high than strains that are pure Sativa or even a Sativa-dominant hybrid.

When you want the largest marijuana plants with the biggest yields, the five plus strains we
just gave you are going to yield huge stacks of sticky buds as long as you’re paying attention

to growing conditions and feeding them good food, as any caring grower should:)


#16

I am sorry @QtPatooty but I do not have a journal. I may do one on a future grow but I would prob forget to update it all the time lol


#17


This is the one in Ffof knew it was going into a hot soil so left more vegetation on it.


#18


The promix.

Both were cut the week of Xmas


#19

They look really good for being cut at X-mas. I plan on taking my cuttings on Thurs. just hope I can be as successful. Just trying to make sure I have everything I need. Did you pot them in larger pots than normal since they have the ability to get huge?


#20

No actually I put them in 2 gallon with intention to keep them kinda small. But going to repot before putting into flower.