Improving taste and smell?

If anyone is interested I’m looking for some advice on enhanced smell and taste for my next attempt. I’ve reached the point where the environment is relatively stable, have worked out most of the residual nutrient issues and can produce meds superior to the limited dispensary options available where there are no flower options available at all and now my quest is for something more pleasant. I have a host of other issues to work on also but am thinking I want to play with one or maybe two variables to try and improve things in this area. The problems are not so much that its unpleasant but that it’s inconsistent and seems like it could be improved. I’m not that smart so I’m looking for only one or two levers to mess with. If anyone has suggestions they would be welcome.

For anyone interested here is some context that might help. I alternate day time and night time meds using JH for the day and a mix of OGKA and WWA for night time or heavier pain. Some recommendations on this mix at some point would be welcome also.


  • Indoor Grow.
  • Soil in 5 Gallon Grow Bags (Three tier, Coast of Maine, FFOF, and Warrior Seedling Mix)
  • 4x4 Tent
  • California Lightworks 550 with Controller and add on UVB Lamp
  • Humidifier
  • DeHumidifier
  • Constant Fan pulling through Carbon Filter
  • Second Fan pulling air and linked to Controller tripped on for Cooling
  • Oscillating Fan and (2) small fans

Nutes and Adds:

Fox Farm Nutes: Starting about week 4 from seed at 25% and ramping to 75% recommended.
Molasses, Microbe Life - Photosynthesis Plus, Mammoth and Cal-Mag also added per recommendations at 100% of recommended dose. 1TBS per Gal for Molasses.

Plants are hand watered and water is set out to remove chlorine with a pump and a soap stone to oxygenate. Nutes and adds are generally placed into the mix overnight also while it bubbles.

PH and PPM

Inbound is 6.5 or 6.6 for PH and PPM ramps up to about 1200 or 1300 and then down to 300 or 400. Runoff figures for reference below.

Finally, environmental conditions while stable do not modulate a great deal during the run. Humidity and temp for example are set to try and stay stable in the 75-78 range for temp and in the mid 50’s for Humidity.

Realize its a big question with a lot of variables but would love some advice on where to focus.


Thank you!

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Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction @Spiney_norman. I’m thinking of focusing on light for a bit. Thinking mine may be too close historically. You can see the leaves in the pic below clawing upward? I’ve been using a Sun Systems PAR meter to try and measure intensity but it looks like even if the meter reads in the 800 - 1000 range the plant is still getting pounded by light. The sensor is the older style Apogee one which might explain it. Any thoughts? @dbrn32, and/or @blackthumbbetty would love to get any feedback or help you could share also if you have any. If its just you will sort it out… that’ts fine to. :slight_smile:

I’ll leave this to the experts. :grinning:

Thanks Betty and no worries. thanks for replying

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Hard to say. I would look back on your grow and try to figure out what happened first. If you had a nutrient or ph issue that had your leaves in a bind, the plants wouldn’t be able to take the light intensity they would otherwise. Or, like you’re saying they maybe just be more light sensitive.

A perfect example as to why I tell most to save their money and not spend cash on light meter. Just because you adjust your lights accordingly doesn’t mean it won’t be too much for plants. Or maybe they could take more.

Sorry, I thought this was strictly a light question. :grinning:

Your humidity is actually a bit low, for your temps, if you’re trying to hit the proper VPD. That could be the one area you’re overlooking


Thanks @dbrn32. Her name was “Sickly” out of the gate after having some nute burn early on from too hot soil on the top layer. Might be part of the issue. I need to get it sorted however as I will need to know where my lights need to sit prior to moving to photos. Appreciate the feedback and the reply but was frankly hoping someone might tell me if the clawing was indicative of general issues with light not whether I was wasting my money on toys and gadgets but I get it. Its hard to say. I was hoping for someone who could help optimize data like this. My suspicion was that by lowering the light and pushing the intensity I was creating issues, which I suspect was correct. I was exceeding the mfg recommendations on purpose to see what might be the effect. Might have been interested in feedback on optimizing the red/blue ratios also frankly but I am sorting that to. Thanks again.


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Well sure. But I would say based on your post that was compounding issues, not creating issues. If you already have a nutrient or lockout issue, then trying to increase rate of photosynthesis is only going to make that worse. From that standpoint, a photon is a photon and too many is going to be too many regardless of wavelength.

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Good point. Compounding is a better descriptor. The nute issue predated the pic by sixty days or so by the way. The name just stuck. Still it’s late start and early “sickly” condition certainly didn’t need even more light pounding on it. I probably wouldn’t stand in a thunderstorm if I had the flu for instance. I know you’re busy, thanks for the feedback, and for one more piece of the puzzle to think about. Much appreciated.

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I think the best way to go about is to gradually increase intensity and watch plants. If you ever hit bump in road back lights off until you get ironed out. Then proceed as planned.

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