This would work?
This would work?
And this is just genius!! I gave up trying to clip my fan to the vertical poles. I see a 3D printer in my future…
That looks like the files. If you have 16mm poles then download the file : 16.stl
I’m sure you saw there were also files for 19mm and 22mm. Just pick the correct size for your tent poles. if your friend is going to make them for you be sure to give him the printer settings.
Print standing up
3 perimeters is fine
4 top/bottom shells
I think for 8 of them it was 11hrs printing on my printer.
Its cool some of the stuff that thingverse has files for.
Awesome, thanx for the info!
OK so here it is week 7, and I’m on the fence for flipping them. Some are up to the net but most are not.
Now from past experience we know that there will be a stretch for the 3 weeks following light change so it is certain that the mains will be above the net at harvest but what about the rest of the side branches? Another thing to note is the deficiencies in some of the leaves…
I am going to be “zen” about this and not let it bother me.
Before going with a higher power led panel I never saw deficiency in my plants with this grow box.
I’m running a 440W full power light set at 176 watts draw and at 20 inches to my net. For the new people at growing indoors and are using the better led lights, there is a direct correlation of the distance and wattage of these lights. I have seen posts of people that literally fry their plants when they are small by running them too high and to close. I am at the top of what you should use for vegging right now.
From past experience 350 on my meter is more than adequate for vegging, so I am running a bit high. Higher par does make the plants use more in nutrients. But this grow log is to show that you do not have to mix a different batch of nute’s each watering, and guess what they need.
This will bring me to another topic of lighting and the “throw’ that LEDs have.
I have seen pictures of grows that show their plants with maybe 2 mains that are at least 10 inches above the rest of the plant. The drop off of par in 10 inches is big. That means that those 2 main colas are going to be great but the lower part of the plant will be a little bit less in their bud production.
That is actually why I went with the netting in this grow. I’m trying to keep it more compact in height so penetration won’t be as big of a factor and my lower buds sites will get stronger light. if you look at the HGL 650 ppfd charts, at 24” in the center it reads 1107 and at 30" its 796. the drop off in just 6" makes a difference. Think of it, if your plant has a couple of mains that are 6" plus above the rest of your plant how productive is that lower portion of the plant that doesn’t have the intensity of the top?
In real sunlight the par readings are the same from the top to bottom of the plant, less any shading from the upper leaves.
OK now that I gave you something to think about… I’m switching to flower when the lights go out…
Be cool be safe.
Another week has passed and we are at week 8.
I flipped to flower just yesterday 1/17 so real close to 8 full weeks of veg.
A couple more branches passed the scrog line.
The underside will need more cleaning up and I want to get more clones for the upcoming outdoor grow season. So win/win.
Later this week I’ll put up my “home built” clone machine, and talk about that.
I went in and did a little clean up. From the pictures I see I need to do some more.
I can hardly tell from the top view.
I did a cleaning of my home built clone machine. Bleached it and ran for an hour, then complete rinsing.
I took some of the cuttings and trimmed to what I have had work best from this.
This cloner is only a 4 spot so I doubled up and put 2 in all but 1 that got 3.
All clones were dipped in clonex and then misted.
Over the years there have been people running the aero cloners that claimed they had to add ice to their cloners because of the heat that gets generated from the pump that sits in the reservoir. So I made this one with the pump external of the reservoir. I used a high pressure pump like what is used in RV’s and boats for their water systems. The pump has the capability of up to 96 psi before the switch shuts it off.
This is going through spray heads so the pump never sees that much pressure. I originally tried misting heads but they clogged to easy, so I went with these
OK, so I have a 12 volt pump that needed a power supply. I just happen to have one I built in the 80’s for motorcycle batteries.
Now about the heat thing that has plagued some cloners. I have found that you do not need to run the pump 24/7. In this design I’m not worried about heat build up,but have you ever been in a motor home and run water? Those pumps are loud. I actually have had better success cloning by cycling the pump than running continuous. So here is a great little timer that I have set for 1 minute on 10 minutes off. I have a 24 spot cloner I built that has an internal pump. When I use that the cycling will help keep the heat down in that. Something to keep in mind for the clone machine crowd.
Its been about 1/2 hour since I put the cuttings in the cloner and its almost time to fire it up. We didn’t want to just wash off the clonex, I wanted it to sink in a while. I also have misted the tops several times already.
It will be at least 2 weeks before results will be known.
Week 9 update:
8 days since the lights went to 12/12.
Not much happening. A few more branches have made it through the net. I had 4 that I topped because they were shooting up faster than the rest of them, and I want to keep canopy height close to the same for all. I also cleaned out a little more of the fan leaves that were blocking light.
From the pictures it looks like I should be cleaning it up a little better LOL.
As far as watering, it is using 1/2 the reservoir in about 4 days time so I don’t think the air stone is needed so that’s been pulled. When the reservoir gets to 1/2, I fill it. (don’t want the roots in there to dry out)
Thanks to @dbrn32 I have a great veg light for a different tent.
I repurposed an aluminum plate that I tried the 120v Cob lights on that made just too much heat. I have it set at 140 watts draw which gives me over 400 on my PAR meter at 16 inches, and very little heat. I put a 10 ft lead on the output of the driver to mount it outside the tent. The driver feels hotter than the plate aluminum the LED’s are mounted on.
That is keeping these happy: