Hey @Firstimer1299 it looks like they are trying to flower but have some deficiencies. I attached a chart at the bottom with pictures of leaves and associated ailments that could be the issue. But in order to diagnose these issues we need some basic information to determine what could be going wrong.
Is it the nutrients or the pest issues or could be some sort of nutrient lockout due feeding regime??
Answer these simple questions the best you can.
If you do not know, or do not use something; Just say so; Or post
NA (non applicable)
-What strain, Seed bank, or bag seed (photo or auto)
-Age of plant
-Method: Soil w/salt, Organic soil, Hydroponics, Aquaponics, KNF
-Vessels: Type and capacity of container (fabric, plastic, etc)
-PH and TDS of Water, Solution, runoff (if Applicable)
-PPM/TDS or EC of nutrient solution if applicable
-Method used to measure PH and TDS
-Indoor or Outdoor if indoor, size of grow space
-Light system List brand and wattage/spectrum
-Actual wattage draw of lights
-Current Light Schedule
-Temps; Day, Night
-Humidity; Day, Night
-Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size
-AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,
-Co2; Yes, No
If growing Hydro some additional questions:
-DWC? RDWC? Autopots? Ebb and Flow? Other?
-Distance of liquid below net pot (DWC)
-Temperature of reservoir
-TDS of nutrient solution
-Amount of air to solution
Always try to upload a clear picture in white light of any issues you may have to allow the community to assist you.
My watering routine is like this
Water with nutrients, just water(check ppm and EC), water with nutrients
i use biobizz
However last feed I upped the dosage
Input ppm are always roughly around 1100 and last time I checked runnof ppm which is last week they were between 750/900 and EC was somewhere between 1400/1700(roughly I do not remember the exact number)
pH is between 6.2/6.4
You can purchase some Distilled Water at the store for a couple dollars. It has a pH of 7.0 and you can use as a good test solution.
Although the Apera calibrating solution mentioned above will work with an Apera pH meter to adjust the meter for you.
Store the electrode in a solution of 4 M KCl. If 4 M KCl is not available, use a pH 4 or 7 buffer solution.
DO NOT store electrode in distilled or deionized water.
Fill the electrode protective cap about half-way with storage solution (MA9015), then put the cap on the electrode making sure the cover is tight.
Check the electrode periodically to ensure solution has not evaporated. If evaporation occurs, refill the cap or beakers/cups.
According to the web search results, the general guidelines for storing a pH meter probe are:
The probe should be cleaned after each use with distilled water or a mild detergent solution, and rinsed with distilled water².
The probe should be stored in liquid to prevent the glass bulb and the reference junction from drying out³. The liquid should contain potassium chloride (KCl), which is the same electrolyte solution inside the probe⁵.
The best storage solution is 4M KCl, which can be purchased from laboratory suppliers or made by dissolving 29.5 g of KCl in 100 mL of distilled water¹⁵. If 4M KCl is not available, pH 4 or 7 buffer solution can be used as an alternative¹.
The probe should be submerged in enough storage solution to cover the glass bulb and the reference junction². The storage solution should be replenished often to keep the probe moist¹.
The probe should be stored upright in a small cup, jar, or beaker with a loose-fitting lid or cap²⁴. The cap should not be too tight to avoid creating a vacuum inside the probe².
The probe should not be stored in distilled or deionised water, as this will cause the ions to leach out of the glass bulb and reduce the probe’s sensitivity¹². The probe should also not be stored in tap water, as this may contain contaminants that can damage the probe².
I hope this helps you with your pH meter maintenance.
Side point, while obviously maintain a good PH meter, most aquarium detection kits range between 6.0 and 7.5, so I like having one on hand to test my water with if I feel like something isn’t reading correctly. Obviously it’s a pain to do that every time, but also good for quick checks like testing if, I dunno, different faucets in your house put out different water you aren’t accounting for (example, pre-2000 pipes tend to have heavy calmag buildup of their own which, while kind of neat for the nutrient-poor grower [been there in a pinch], drive up your ph. But you could have old pipes on one part and new pipes in another and not gauge where different taps are while adding solutions out of habit. Just off the top of my head, happened to me before.) Some people even have these laying around their house already for other reasons so it can be a new patch while you’re calibrating or replacing a meter, just don’t lean on it exclusively for your own sanity.
Theoretically distilled water is ph neutral but most of the ph probes in circulation here won’t test distilled accurately due to lack of ions. Distilled water will also usually start to become slightly acidic once exlosed to air. Not that it’s a super big deal, but need to make sure components are compatible if using for a test solution.
If you soil is moist you can wait another day.
I’d make sure you have a circulation fan just above your pots to help move fresh O2 and keep your soil happy.
Have you been using any beneficial microbes?
There are many types of beneficial microbes that can help cannabis plants grow better, but some of the most common and effective ones are:
Rhizobia: These are bacteria that form symbiotic relationships with legumes and other plants, and help them fix nitrogen from the air into a form that plants can use. Nitrogen is essential for plant growth and development, especially for cannabis plants that need high levels of nitrogen during the vegetative stage. Rhizobia can be added to the soil or inoculated onto the seeds before planting¹.
Mycorrhizal fungi: These are fungi that colonize the roots of plants and extend their hyphae into the soil, creating a network that enhances nutrient and water uptake. Mycorrhizal fungi can help cannabis plants access phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, and other micronutrients that are often limited in the soil. They can also improve soil structure, water retention, and disease resistance¹².
Trichoderma: These are beneficial fungi that can protect cannabis plants from harmful pathogens such as Fusarium, Pythium, Rhizoctonia, and Botrytis. Trichoderma can compete with these pathogens for space and resources, produce antibiotics and enzymes that degrade their cell walls, and induce systemic resistance in plants²³.
Bacillus: These are beneficial bacteria that can produce plant growth hormones, solubilize minerals, suppress pathogens, and enhance plant immunity. Bacillus can also help cannabis plants cope with abiotic stress such as drought, salinity, heat, and cold²³.
These are some of the best beneficial microbes for cannabis plants, but there are many others that can also contribute to plant health and productivity. You can find these microbes in various products such as inoculants, compost teas, worm castings, or organic amendments. By adding these microbes to your soil or medium, you can create a thriving ecosystem that allows your cannabis plants to reach their full potential.