ILGM CherryPie - Seed to Harvest, First Grow Journal


#492

How big of a pot r u in again I forgot. I’m betting to go with every 3 days 1 feed on then water then feed? Is that how ur schedule is? I love ur setup by the way.


#493

Are you still lowering your light every couple days?


#494

I did lower them but it seemed they dried out the white pistils so I raised them.

But maybe I had them too low


#495

Thanks mate

Pot Its about a 70L 440mm x 440mm x 340mm.

I’ve been feeding every four days with one flush on the same day. But I think it’s time I make it every three days while keep my spag moss moist in between


#496

Yeah this time with mine I’m giving them 24 hrs in between me just using water and adding more nutes tonight.


#497

I think there is a positive relationship between light intensity and yield size. If you can deliver more light to your plants it should help yield. Obviously your yield should already be very good… theres only a few ways I know to increase light intensity: put out more wattage, put the light closer, or focus/reflect the light. Unless u add equipment you wont be adding wattage or a reflector. But you can move ur light closer… u were doing this before right? Or was that someone else. Sorry I read too many journals to keep everything straight sometimes. And I’m a pothead so theres that

Anyway move the light closer by an inch every 2-3 days and you may find the lights can get closer and the plant may benefit from increased intensity

During my critical purple grow I had my light too close for a while and they bleached the tips of my buds, but no other damage and my yield didnt suffer


#498

Yeah I’m always adding and changing through this grow.

I don’t think I’m short of light intensity even if my lights were at the top of the tent :sweat_smile:

Veg

  • mars hydro full spec 900w
  • 2 x 250W 6400k CFL

Flower

  • mars hydro full spec 900w
  • 2 x 250W 2400k CFL
  • 2 x UVB 10.0 30W
  • 2 x Red LED Lumen 300lm (swapping out with UVB daily)

I’ll lower & raise lights for the next week to find the pistils sweet spot.

My feeling is that you gotta turn your attention from leaves to pistils when making judgement on light intensity.

The pistils are more delicate than the leaves so they should now be the new indicator. That’s my logic anyway :wink:

Now that I cannot manipulate how much light intensity reaches my plants with high humidity. I have to move lights accordingly.


#499

But what is the significance of pistils browning? Maybe brown pistils indicates a total dosage of light to the pistil tissue and browned tips is just enough light… rather than too much. I hear pistils dont have any thc and some smokers even remove pistils because they dont like the taste. So what’s the difference if they are crispy


#500

I’m not sure to be honest… I’m thinking out loud. If a plants flowers are drying out then the conditions should be adjusted so they don’t. Sticky resin flowers would mean they are producing their own moisture to protect themselves. But early on in flower they are only just starting to build up those defense mechanisms. So while they are at this stage you need to be aware of what conditions are best for the plant.

If they are just brown in colour I don’t see it as any issue. But if they are skinny, brown & curled(indicating dryness). I would say it’s a heat or intensity thing(not necessarily an issue, just a thing I like to be aware of and see if I can correct such a thing)

Again I’m just thinking out loud


#501

Idk enough about the pistils to venture a guess, but no worries - your grow is looking good. Ru running co2?


#502

Neither do I but I like to question things that dont need questioning :sweat_smile:

I ran out of Co2 the other day. Getting tank refill tomorrow


#503

So could that have caused your pistils to age prematurely?


#504

No idea… is that a thing?


#505

Lol idk I’m just calling browning pistil tips “premature aging” lol I’m a total bullsh!t artist


#506

Wikibooks - Marijuana Cultivation/Common Plant Problems

:+1: All Good!


#507

The ultimate growth :rofl:!!


#508

cool picture


#511

Your getting a little over board that red 300 lumen is virtual doing nothing…a qb strip build puts about 170s lumens per watt so if you have 300 lumens red thats about 3. Or 4 watts I think it’s a good idea but you need to fi d about the new samsung strips in red like 600- 750 mm and build a custom real serious red so it actually will he worth your time and effort I bet the money you spent on them red bulbs and stuff you would have to cash for a like 50 watt supplemental red setup light that will have tons of intensity …top of the line in light delivery along with efficiency @dbrn32 can you clarify about those red strips I heard you mention recently brother thanks man

Also I dont know why basement keeps lmtwlling you to lower your lights seems lime if your plants are happy us leave em unless there stupid far he had an issue with light bleaching… bet u sure you know what this is


#512

Ok, So how many lumens would be worthwhile just as an added extra and to be of actual significance ? In e27 bulbs


#514

E27 is a 220 volt bulb you do know this … e26 are American versions @ 110v there sockets (e 26 26mm or e 27 27mm are interchangeable hut voltage differs… so if you put an e27 in a e26 socket it should be running at half the wattage I think that’s how that works or am I stoned and you just wrote e27 on accident instead of e26 lol… e26 is not a good way to measure what I’m saying supplemental red I’m not sure of the lumens per watt at what amperage with the reds but 30watts of led per square foot I know is a good goal that’s with 3500k white lights not sure with red I’m just looking at your numbers and just the discussions I had about very similar stuff you know looking online runnŕ ng across stuff knowing a little about something to catch tour interest but not enough to know if your wasting your time or not…dont impulsively buy it saves time money and aggravation most off all