If yu are not having issues using cal mag maybe you should not try fixing whats not broken, AN would suggest people with plants with various defiencies to stop using the cal mag because it played with their buffer but if your plants are healthy keep doing what you do . Sensi grow and bloom already contains calcium and magnesium, wich is supposed to be enough to sustain the plants (from what I understood)
Looks like Guy Fieri’s hair on Food Network LOL
On the PPM. I have a ph meeter/fertility meter. Is fertility and ppm the same?
I guess I’m testing dirt. Ur talking a water tester
I dont know if fertility and ppm are one in the same. But, yes I test my water before and after watering.
If you are talking about those things that you poke in the soil, that tell you moisture etc. You might want to look into a water tester.
Nice I can’t wait to see them at harvest time mine are 2 weeks old
122 days from sprout. 3 weeks into flowering. 5 Gal buckets. Happy Frog soil. Advanced Nutrients grow and bloom 2 part nutes. 2 weeks of Big Bud fert also added in every feeding sine week 2 flowering stage… Nutes every other day. They’re coming along great!!
I have 1 big surprise thats been growing in the ground in the back yard. It was the runt of the 4 Blue Cheese plants. When I transplanted it something ate the top right off of it. It has turned into a monster. 6ft tall and over 5 feet wide. I will post picture of it when I feel it’s safe to go down there without being obvious to my neighbors .Not that I am really worried but you know………better safe than sorry.
Do you have a scope ?
Yes, I used my Digital scope and saw spider mites. Little suckers.
This is the thread I started on this problem.
I actually got a picture of two of them.
PPM is parts per million. Lots of tap water has loads of calcium and magnesium already dissolved in it (that’s “hard” water), so if your tap water has high PPM, you probably don’t need to add calmag. RO or rain water has almost 0 PPM, so you do need calmag. Nutrient manufacturers don’t know what your starting water PPM is, so they can’t recommend a specific value. They know if you follow their schedule, you’ll have the right amount of N, P, and K in your nute solution. 700 PPM doesn’t help if most of that is calcium and magnesium.
If you are looking for 700 PPM of nutrients, you can add that to the starting water PPM. For instance, if the water is 200 PPM, the recommended amount of nutes (for 700) should get it to 900 PPM. It’s also very useful to look at PPM going in and draining out, to see what the plant is eating. But that can be misleading, since you have no idea what elements make up the effluent PPM. Unless you have a flame photometer, of course!
The exact contents of a solution can be determined, but the equipment is very expensive. And yes, I have run flames photometers, spectrophotometers, specific ion electrodes, and neutron activation analyzers. I used to work in a university research lab. I also grew some hydroponic weed back in 1976 by looking up the research papers, buying reagents, and mixing my own nutrient solution!
I kind of understand what you are saying. My ppm after I let my water gas out is around 80ppm. So when I get 750 ppm after adding my nutes I really am getting the right amount of nutes?
If you start with 000 ppm, and add the recommended ratio of nutrients, and the ppm is still low, then what?
Your meter is telling you added around 670 (750 - 80) PPM, but maybe your meter is that inaccurate, or maybe you measurement of volume for the addition. It’s just measuring conductance which may not be very reliable. If you added the amount the nute manufacturer said in their feeding chart, I think you are fine.
If you added the exact amount the manufacturer said, and you get much lower than they said it should be, then there’s something wrong. Maybe you didn’t shake the nute bottle well? Measured wrong? If you measured well, I would trust the manufacturer more than your cheapo PPM meter.
If you really want an accurate reading, make up a standard known solution that has the exact same salts you will be measuring, and calibrate the meter to that PPM at 25 degrees C. The PPM of your standard should be near the PPM your samples will have. Then measure PPM of your samples, again at 25 degrees C. The temperature is important because conductivity varies by about 2.5% per degree C difference. The mixture of salts is important, too.
The normal PPM meter going for $12 on Amazon probably never mentions this, so you can see why they are inherently inaccurate. You would need to know what is in the manufacturer’s nute solution, in the exact amounts, and you would need those reagents and a microgram balance. So I doubt anybody will do this!
Well said @1BigFella. Thank you for explaining that. Your knowledge is a big asset to us. I have always had success with out worrying about PPM. But after reading the “Grow Bible” I figured I was missing out on something. Which is the very reason I bought a TDS Meter. But having little knowledge about the science of PPM I felt a little bit intimidated. Knowledge is wealth.
enjoy that blue cheeze. Had a everyone I gave a taste loving it