I’m looking for a simple, inexpensive (relatively) setup that can get my indoor game going


#21

Not sure why this is a reply to me. :grinning:

Have a good one!


#22

Because you’re right, I learned the hard way to stop fussing and creating problems, to keep it simple, just look more instead of pulling this or plucking that, to think more about WHAT I’m doing instead of just reacting to what I THINK I should be doing.


#23

That’s super helpful, thanks very much @bigbananafeet ! As I start collecting everything I’m sure I’ll have lots more questions to ask but this is a great to do list


#24

@bigbananafeet … lasted 10 hrs and a question has already risen lol. Based on my limited electrical know how I think it’s ok but thought I’d check…the lighting transformer you listed is rated for 240v and we’re 120v. In my experience transformers will accept 120-240 but this only references 240v so it caused me a mild puckering. Is it ok?


#25

I just used that one as a example, look for one that is either 110/240v or one that will run 100-240v.

Cost shouldn’t be much different, here’s one example, select 12v and 30A as then the driver is NOT running full power so will not run so hot and will last longer.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LED-Transformer-Power-Supply-Switch-Adapter-AC-110V-220V-TO-DC5V-12V-24V-2A-3A-5A/32841791440.html


#26

Ouch, my mistake in my eagerness, it’s already been shipped.


#27

I should have thought more and linked to one that covered the US as well as here, and should have been clearer.

You never know though, it says one thing but you can always try it on 110 and see what, if any output, there is, it could be that it does the usual 100-265 or 110/220 but doesn’t say so.


#28

I’m in eastern Ontario, Canada and I know enough that I should have checked that…live and learn! I’ve got an email off to the seller and I will try as you suggest or just order the right one. Mistakes are the best teachers :slight_smile:


#29

Seller might be able to sort it out, maybe for a few bucks more, if they have the 110v models. If not, should be early enough to cancel if they can’t.


#30

They already shipped it, no big deal. I also ordered the lights, will those be ok? Which transformer do I actually need?


#31

The second one I posted, does your 110/12v


#32

Thanks - Got it :+1:t4:


#33

Just so you know, the first one you ordered is he same as the new one I ordered. It arrived today and is 110/220v +/-15% so you will likely get the same.

A spare power supply is always handy…


#34

Thanks for the heads up! I agree, spare parts are seldom a bad idea


#35

Ok, I have my metal plate and leds so I figured I should get done what I can until the power supply comes. I’m using the side of an old cpu as you suggested. What do I do next?


#36

Depends on the plate size and what you want, I just made it 35cm lengths because that was the length that meant the least waste, and since they are 1cm wide you can stick 28 pieces 35cm long on a plate 28cm x 35cm.

So you can first “key” off the metal with some sandpaper, gives the tape a better surface to bond to, then give it a good clean, then start cutting strip up to suit whatever you have. Then arrange the strip with the spacing you want, I’ll be going tight together but you can obviously spread them further apart if you want, then start sticking them down, remembering the power goes in one end and out the other, then you can solder the bridges between strips, add the cables from the power supply and have them ready to connect. Gives you time to place the plate face down and get some books onto it to really push the tape in so it bonds as well as possible.


#37

When you say solder the “bridges” between strips, am I using small pieces of wire or is there something special for bridges? I assume I cut the led strips on the black line across the two copper ovals?


#38

No

Every 5cm there’s a black line, between 2 pairs of ovals, which is your “cut line”, where you cut the strip. Cut anywhere else, that 5cm section is ruined.

What I mean by “bridges” is what you are doing, you “bridge the gap” between the contacts with insulated wire, just to be safe, + to + and - to -, and you end up with something similar to this


#39

Ok, I think mine is a little different then, it has the black line but that line bifurcates two ovals, I assume they become the solder points. Here’s a pic of my strip (and the cpu plate because it looks cool down to the metal). Thanks for the example pic, very helpful.

Another question, isn’t there a concern of the metal plate conducting current where the bridges are soldered at the ends?

Thanks again for your help!


#40

Normally there shouldn’t be an issue soldering the ends because of the tape under there, but I always put another layer of regular, thick, double sided tape there first then solder as you have that extra layer should you melt the tape on the strip.

And, yes, the black lines are your cut point, be accurate because there’s not much solder area, but you can carefully scrape the plastic coat off to expose more of the copper track if necessary.