So you feed with Nutes on your grows all the way from start to finish?
It doesn’t effect the smoke that much does it?
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Doesn’t do a darn thing, near as I can tell.
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Only reason I had asked that question and said something about it effecting the smoke is because I have read over some others opinions and they say “should flush before harvest to flush out nutes because it makes the smoke harsh”. But no difference you say?
I can’t see how it would make much of a difference either, being that it’s dried for at least a month or two (drying&curing(curing is technically still drying, none the less). I can understand how others think it would make a difference.
Oh, also, so being that I just flushed last night (1/13) should I wait until next watering to add the 1/2 nutes u suggested or immediately? Or would immediately bring about issues with over watering or root rot?
It’s always been my view that opinion is just Bro science, and pure speculation. There’s a High Times article floating around somewhere that suggests the opposite when smokers did a blind taste test.
Yeah, harsh smoke is a direct result of bad or incomplete curing. If you nuke a bud in the microwave to taste test it, it’s gonna get you high as hell but it’ll be harsh - but that’s because you shoved it in the microwave, not because you did or didn’t flush it before harvest.
It’s always bothered me because we don’t flush any other fruit before we harvest it. I definitely don’t go make sure all the fertilizer in my soil is gone 2 weeks before I pluck apricots off my tree. Why should I treat weed any differently than any other fruit or veggie? It’s wild to me.
I’d do it sooner rather than later so you can reset the wet/dry cycle and not make your gal cannabalize herself too much.
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I switched to Jacks a while back mid stream and they loved it.
Best growing decision I ever made. Will never switch to anything else. Easy as can be.
Good luck with whatever you decide.
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@Graysin
First of all the “1s” & "2s &“3s” are the order. First in then out.
AB
Flush with 10 pH (tap)1
pH 5.43 PPM 800 (out)3
pH 6.57 PPM 370 (IN)2
New watering↓
pH 5.35 PpM [13-1500] (out)2
pH 6.35 PPM 607(IN)1
Zk
Flush with 10ph (tap)1
pH 5.47 PPM 1360 (out)3
pH 6.57 PPM 250 (IN)2
New watering ↓
PH 5.75 PPM 1207 (0ut)2
pH 6.76 PPM 625 (IN)1
I’m not fully or even a little bit, understanding what’s going on, can please help, thank you.
X the flushes we’re the ones from a couple days ago X
Your numbers don’t really make sense to me in terms of order.
Are you telling me that for Plant 1, you watered with water at a pH of 10, and the runoff was a pH of 5.43 with 800 PPMs, then you added more water at a pH of 6.57 and the runoff was 5.35 pH…?
Normally the format is just this:
What’s going in (pH and PPMs)
What came out (pH and PPMs)
Normally I would say that if your pH isn’t coming back up, it may be to do a serious flush (at least 15 gallons of water with PPMs over 100 and a pH of 6.8 per plant and watered nice and slow). You’re right on the cusp of when I’d say not to bother, because they’ll be fading slowly now anyway. But I do think you have long enough left that it might be worth the fuss.
That is exactly what I’m saying. Here’s numbers from the other day
Not making sense to me either, that’s why I am reaching out.
So I noticed you said “water nice and slow”, does the speed in which you water matter?
I water usually,besides the flush, 1 gallon maybe a tiny bit over per plant, each time. I use a half gallon (2Liters) watering spout thing to dispense. I pour a bit give it a minute or two and pour some more and give a minute or two (I admit sometimes less time than that) , and repeat until the gallon is gone. I do the same exact thing with the other plant, would watering fast or slow make a difference, and what would it be?.
Also I was
. Would temperature changes have anything to do with any of these problems that I’ve had? I’m n Missouri. Before I figured out a system, temps would range from 80F when lights on and, depending on the outside temps, could drop to 50F (not below). I use a heater now while lights are off and keeps it at about 75ish when lights r off, then I turn off when come on and stays 75-80F.
I def learned that it’s A LOT more difficult to grow in the winter time without the right setup going on.
(I’m growing in an attached to house, but NOT heated, garage.)
The faster you water, the less chance you’re actually achieving a flush. Soil, and honestly all mediums, will naturally settle out and compact to a degree. Channels develop where the water travels most. Add in that most mediums become a bit hydrophobic as they dry out - what you end up with when you water too quickly is the water traveling straight through the channels and back out the pot without fully saturating the soil/medium.
The slower you go, the more you mitigate that problem. Sometimes if I let my medium get too dry, I end up picking up the pot and soaking it in water for a few minutes, til I feel satisfied that it’s no longer hydrophobic and I’ve managed to permeate the channels again.
Not likely. Plants withstand 40-110° temp swings just fine outdoors. I’m going to stick with my first thought which is your medium is to blame - fox farms is notorious for this exact issue.
That just slows growth, shouldn’t really hurt anything but timelines. 
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Well then, maybe my flush was in-effective due to too fast of watering. I do know what you r talking about “channels” running through the soil. So what you just said makes A LOT of sense to me as to why the numbers are the way they are. Perhaps the next watering should be another flush, maybe, same amount (2G+) but slowly dispensed?
I use fabric pots, could I kind of … Not hard but just kind of loosing up the dirt inside by squeezing the sides of the pot and maybe collapse those channels, would that help at all?
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It might, yeah. Be gentle with it since your root zone is there too.
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Chop away if you’re ready. Some will wait for more amber, but you’re in the window.
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