I expect to catch a record DEAD fish tomorrow

If you’re using RO+DI water, you should be adding cal mag, 200 ppm seems about right in my observations, though I’ve not seen any specific recommendations for a base level. I find at 200 my pH is also correct, so it seems right to me. My tap water is about 150, and I was always running into deficiency late in flower.

Also make sure you added the right amount per gallon? That seems really low, like you didn’t add the total amount.

That’s more or less how I look at it too. Not so much for nutrients, but definitely for water, though your theory definitely sound right. The closer you keep the water and nutrients to the roots, the easier it is for your plants to reach it. Now, of course you do want to make the roots spread out, but I just feel that it’s easier to do so in smaller pots, and I’ve never had any issues with transplanting. A lot of folks use mycorrhizae on the roots, which seems to help a lot with nutrient and water uptake.

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my seedling soil (FF Lightwarrior has mycorrhizae in it and as per the label they recommend supplemental nutrient(theirs of course)after day 5. So a weak version of bergmans seedling boost is being splashed upon the mortally ill in a last ditch effort to generate some reaction in as much as I will atleast observe a reaction or LACK THEREOF to begin building knowledge both good and bad in nature.

forgive me but what is RO+DI water?
I get the 500 ppm or EC of 1.0 is Bergmans plant food soil feeding schedule.
Again I am not sure if thats a min.,max.,or target?

My water right from the tap has a ph of 7.0 and a ppm of 346/ EC of 770.
Good/Bad/indifferent ?
As always ty.

Reverse Osmosis/ or Distilled. Basically as close to 0 ppm water as u can get.

Sounds about a tad high ppm wise. Id look into finding another source for water. You dont know what that 346 ppms consists of and continued used could cause a lockout eventually

Thats old numbers with cheepie ph/tds pen>
I have some apera numbers now.
Right out of the tap closest to plants 7.6/173
the exterior hydrant immediately next to the well provides 7.6 / 077.
No chlorine ,fluoride or anything the good lord did not provide.
And finally my spring fed pond 7.0/011. The pond has no agricultural runoff adjacent to it and is free of any contaminants unless i introduced them and i have a couple of 250 gallon vessels i can fill if needed. little fish poop and otter scat is probably good for them.

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The pond is pure organics so im inclined to think you are missing a variable reading those numbers. Is there a k or something to the thousandth on those 0** numbers?

Biggest reason i ask is

167 from the hydrant
077 from the well
017 from the pond

The hydrant should be filterd some from the well. The well should be higher the most tap (100-200). And the pond should be organically numberd (high enough to worry most people)

when it stops raining i’ll go out and grab another sample but im not following your logic on the pond.Most of my soils(80 acres+)have a ph value of between 4.1 and 5.3.The entire property is covered in White Oaks/cedars/Russian olives/persimmons/walnuts/dogwoods…Ijust pulled 2 interior samples and checked them with a freshly calibrated pair of instruments and both ,well one was PH7.3- 074
the other was PH 7.4- 074

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Most organic stuff has very high ppms as its essentially alive. Pond water should have muck, fish excrement, particles from trees, leaves, grass in it. Just a ton of things go into a living ecosystem so Id figure it would be higher.

Alot of organic growers throw ppm out the window as ive seen 5k+ ppm reading and not a burnt leaf in sight. Thats why I asked if maybe there is a x10 or something on the metter you may have missed. Not saying ur definitely wrong by any means. Maybe ur pond is just really really clean. Maybe the sample from the top and everything is near the bottom.

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the pond has an average depth of 8-10’ with a deep channel about 14’ .Ive never sampled from the dock always my boat and my weighted sample jar draws a sample at whatever depth i lower it to before opening it,does it leak a little, sure but its not like Im grabbing surface water.

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Alright then man. Sounds like some great water to use.

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Updated water info as per recalibrated ph meter and ec. Apera units
PH/ EC mS
INTERIOR WATER PH 7.3/ EC 0.74 mS
WELL HYDRANT PH 7.3 / EC 0.76 mS
POND WATER PH 7.2 / 0.03 mS

Sorry for the earlier confusion regarding units of measure or lack thereof.
If anyone has a reliable resource for light info/data. Par/ppfd,etc.I have the Photone app and an apple phone with the buffer and I hear tell that the sunlight mode is most accurate but no one mentions forn what spectrum of light specifically.All spectrums or full spectrum.
I have my seedlings under a Kind X40 Veg and use the blue/wht spectrum function on Photone …when comparing it to natural sunlight mode is not even close.
its alot to cram for and everyone seems to a varying opinion, i watch a shrt ton of videos on the matter but even the official sources vary. At what point do you guys transplant autos ?

How old are the girls here,and are those the 5 gal.fab pots?

Sorry im no assistance with the light jargon. @dbrn32 is my goto light guru.

As far as autos, once the leaves are over the edge it’s normally time to uppot. As u dont want them to rootbound and slowup at all. Although take that advice with a grain of salt as well. Autos are definitely not my strong suit neither.

@NavyVet420 @Not2SureYet both grow some amazing autos. As does @GreenJewels

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Are they autos?
I’m guessing 3 weeks but what do i know.

Can’t tell you much about the apps, i don’t use them. But sunlight spectrum is similar to 5000k 100cri. If that is calibration point then the further you get away from that the less accurate your readings will be.

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Yeah 5 gallon fabric pots, they are about 3 weeks old from planting.

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are they auto’s or photos?