Ive read in many places never to use organic nutes in dwc hydro set up what r your experiences on it and is it dependant on any environmental factors or how many water changes r done?
It depends on the type of organic. I wouldn’t try and use bat-guano and worm-casings in DWC. But certain organic mixes like marijuana booster or say general hydroponics flora nova will work just fine. I personally have used general hydroponics organic flora nova and orca mycorrhizae with many different types of plants – very successfully and huge beasts of a plant, and I have seen many cannabis strains scrogged into huge monsters in DWC with these same nutes and when properly SOGed or SCROGed resulting in the fabled 1 gram per watt under 600w HPS in a 5’x5’ floorspace. Just be sure to keep your reservoir temps low, under 78f, make sure you have plenty of aeration, you can almost never have too much aeration, and do your complete nute change about every two weeks depending on the size of your reservoir.
Probably better to change res’ every 7-10 days depending on how thick or cloudy that your reservoir solution is.
OK, maybe I should’a said “at the latest, two weeks”, lol
One more note. I am really really picky about making sure my containers and reservoirs are extremely light tight. I think I even mentioned cutting disks with a slit to the middle cut out of panda film to block the light at the surface of the net-pot and the surface of the hydroton. The white of the panda film facing up. 2 black 5 gallon buckets connected by 1.5" pvc pipe and 1.5" uniseal, one as netpot holder and the second as addition reservoir capacity and an easy way to access your hydro’s nutrient mix for ph and ec or tds/ppm as well as adding nutrients and or mixing. By putting water or weak mix in first, you can add nutrients to the “volume enhancer access bucket” and it will be kinda buffered as the mixture reaches equilibrium being very gentle on the roots. One needs to remember the mix will slowly dilute as it mixes with the rest in the other bucket and be sure to take it slow, be patient and don’t jump the gun and over do it “cuz it’s gonna drop a lot as it equals out”, you’re just asking to burn your roots. Patience is a virtue. The two connected buckets, one with a netpot and plant and the other with a black lid are kept on a bare concrete floor in a room that is maintained at about 75 degrees Fahrenheit. And of course tons and tons of aeration. I have seen this set up go a couple of days past two weeks without the water being very mucky at all and no nutrient imbalances even in full bloom.
THAT SOUNDS AWSOME -eh caps
however ive built a 5 pot bubbler w/6 gal reserviour light blocked out by reflective insulation tape the white plate idea sounds great too ill probably use 3 or 4 of the pots id like to grow a few strians at ones im getting soon from Robert white widows then ill grow them with the blueberry and purplehaze ive already gotten from him he said i can grow them all together at ec of 2.8 if i remember correctly i have it saved in email
i was thinking of a 7 day change cycle maybe water bottles frozen to keep res at cool temps cause it does get hot here
5 pot bubbler in 6 gallon rectangular rubber maid or sterilite I assume? Yeah that will make for a nice small sea of green setup that could even have a scrog net above, or not, depending on your pruning and cropping style. A shorter in height and slightly larger circumference bucket or container, i.e. “multiple shoe/sweater box” sterilite or rubber maid container might fit the bill and you could keep it filled with a mote of ice around your 6 gallon container. Having the reservoir on the slab of concrete in and 78 degree F. or lower air conditioned growspace/room/closet will also keep the reservoir really cool.
I am not sure you mean 2.8 EC That is high. (2.1 EC = 1500 ppm)However; If you check it and Robert told you that the plants can handle that level of EC. Go for it.
Great to see you guys discussing bubblers, and modified bubblers, I love it.
Yeah I’ve heard a lot of people say their plants can handle up to 1600 ppm with some nutrient mixes, I prefer to be around 800 to no higher than 1000ppm and actually more often than not when starting with 0.0ppm r/o water I run about 600ppm with fantastic results and no leaf tip burn, even if it goes a while without topping off with fresh water and then getting a ton of evaporation. Better to be safe than sorry. With quality tap water that has low to no chlorine in it and a starting ppm of about 100-150 I would run more in the 700- 800 because of the added starting ppm. Local tap water runs under 150ppm, has very low chlorine levels(our water mostly comes from deep underground wells, so the water is high in calcium and other minerals) and has a ph of 7.5-8.0, so not a bad place to start and is adjusted to about 5.5ph.
THESE WERE MY QUESTIONS TO ROBERT
how are your blueberry and purple haze in hydro?
how do they uptake nutes comparable 2 each other?
would they do ok in a dwc together in 1 reserviour? if good, can i add the white widows in with them as well?
THIS WAS HIS REPLY
Blueberry and purple are both very strong, high yielding strains. Can take an EC of up to 2.8 for healthy mature plants. Blueberry and white widows are Indica and Purple Haze is a Sativa dominant strain. So the purple will grow taller and take 1 or 2 more weks to mature. If you keep that in mind they can grow side by side, no problem
ill probably put this up under its own thread to make it easy for the finding for all who look up these strains