Humic Acids Man Continued

Thanks @garrigan62 out of likes. @Cyle1 this thread may interest you and also you @monkman :v:t2:

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I’m glad I found this

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Welcome to our thread Gremmall, feel free to add what you may know or do as far as growing natural or take it all in lol

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Can you explain the analysis in Lehman terms? Looks like it’s high in ammonium (N), low in phosphorus and medium in potassium. I guess what I don’t understand is the sufficiency ratings and how these ratings affect the overall NPK

A post was split to a new topic: Organic first grow

A post was split to a new topic: First organic grow

Hi. I use Azos and Mykos, frim Amazon. Are they also beneficial in teas. Getting ready for @garrigan62 Tea recipe. First time for me. We all start somewhere. Good luck. Happy grow.:v::sunglasses:


I’ve been putting in my os to my tea, but honestly I do t know if they multiply, die off, or turn into fairy dust.

I do know it has not hurt anything.

@Skydiver @Budbrother

Do azos and mykos multiply in a compost tea?

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I haven’t used that particular brand before, but i have used Recharge in teas, meh same dif basically, right? I did notice an increase in foam using it. Not that the foamy head means much in the long run, I guess.

I always assumed they multiply as long as there’s a steady food source; of course, most eat the smaller guy next to em before too long. I don’t have a microscope to actually check the herd levels. So again this isn’t very scientific.

I now use 1/4 C of Bokashi covered over with water for 24 hrs, and then I add that to my bucket of water, before starting my teas now. This I know is beneficial from research I’ve read.

That brings me to my reasoning for the statements above. Freeze dried or fermented, meh same dif; as far as I can imagine. Why wouldn’t they multiply if you provide the right conditions??

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I looked Azos and Mykos up as I don’t use them so basically they are bacteria in a bag (azos) and Fungi in a bag Mycos so by adding to a tea which should already have these things present during the brew adding them would just enhance the population but if you wait too long they will turn into fairy dust - POOF

The one thing I did notice was that mycos only contains one strain of Fungi
I’m sure it works but I’d rather have something with a variety of strains to better cover things…variety…the spice of life

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These are key to MJ spacifically. Found in Recharge, but I’m sure that they’re in other products as well.

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Yep G. Mossae is one that was listed in teaming with fungi book I read and I use the DTE powdered soluble Root Growth Enhancer product that has that and others

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I love that book. That was actually a screenshot from his lecture. That was more for @aaa @stretchgfw.1957 building upon what you said.


Thanks guys @Skydiver and @Budbrother!

I’m going to need to buy some organic corn pretty soon.

Feeding your plants with organic teas

**Organic Tea Party "//’

Welcome brothers & sisters. In this installation of Living Organics, we’re going to learn about the glory of organic compost teas. But I’m not talking about the Celestial Seasonings sitting on your grocer’s shelf. If you’re growing in soil and want to learn how to come closer to maximizing the potential of your genetics, read on. You’ll learn how to create, administer, and benefit from a largely underutilized technique that has produced some stellar results for me over the years.

You may recall from some of my past articles the nutritional benefits of soil microlife for cannabis plants in fully organic environments. To get a better idea of the advantages of teas, note that a teaspoon of compost contains about one billion beneficial microscopic organisms. However, a teaspoon of organic tea is populated by about four billion microbeasties. Another advantage is that pot plants benefit immediately from teas. Think of teas as organic steroids for your plants.

Not Just For Roots

Teas are not only beneficial for your plant roots,but also for leaves. I like to spray a bit on the leaves in a topical application. The benefit comes from the “coating” of microbes that you create on the leaf when you spray it. This basically muscles out any bad microbes. Be sure to cover atleast 70% of the leaf surface with the tea-spray, ensuring that you get both the tops and bottoms.

Fungus vs. Bacteria

Most teas are bacteria-dominant. However, in flowering, fungus is a tremendous benefit to your plants.I wouldn’t stress this if I hadn’t seen for myself what a difference the fungi make. Organic plants are all about fungi when flowering. If the fungi aren’t present, there’s just no way to push your plants to the limits of yield and quality.In fact,fungi-dominant teas are so good that they’re the trick to achieving yields that border on those produced in finely tuned hydroponic environments.

Fungus takes longer to grow than bacteria. In the population race, bacteria always outgrows fungi by a large margin. Thus, when making a fungi-dominant tea, you have to give the fungi a head start.

Fungus plays a special role during flowering, delivering things such as phosphorous to the plants roots.They also breakdown secondary mineral nutrients and ammonium nitrogen available to the roots.Bacteria then convert the ammonium nitrogen to nitric nitrogen.Both varieties of nitrogen, ammonium and nitric, can be used by a cannabis plant and help it grow vigorously.

Nitric Nitrogen:Makes the plants grow shorter & wider,with closer node spacing.

Ammonium Nitrogen: Causes some stretch in the plant.

Nutrient Flexible

Teas can provide your plants with more than good bacteria.If your plant are lacking food or you encounter a problem that you need to correct,teas are an excellent vehicle for infusing your soil with nutrients.

Personally, I utilize teas mostly to provide my plants with fungi. How many nutrients you should add to you tea depends on what you already have in your particular soil (and needs of your plants).I pack my soil with tons of long-term nitrogen,phosphorous,and potassium,so I don’t have to worry about the tea playing the role of nutrient provider.

Aerobic vs. Anaerobic Bacteria

The only real gotcha with organic teas is aeration.You must continually aerate your organic teas.Why? There are two types of bacteria that can develop in you tea : Aerobic and Anaerobic.Anaerobic doesn’t need oxygen and is nasty stuff.If you ever smell your tea and it stinks of sewer,don’t use it!It means that there’s anaerobic activity.A good tea that’s rich in aerobic activity will smell like very rich soil (the kind that’s teaming with earthworms).Anaerobic teas are bad for more reasons than the fact that they literally smell like shit.They can also manifest E. Coli and introduce things like alcohols,which can kill your plants fast.Good aeration isn’t just to supply oxygen to your plant roots.It’s also a catalyst that teases the microbes and protozoa out of the compost-or earthworm castings,in the case of vermicompost-without killing them.After the continuous bubbling pushes them out, they consume the nutrients and simple sugars in your tea and multiply in a big way (creating the microlife boom that will,in turn,produce a bust,wherein large numbers of microbes will die their carcasses will nourish your plants’ roots).

Thou Shalt Not

There are certain varieties of compost and brewing conditions that should be avoided when brewing a batch of organic tea.

Chlorine: I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: Never use chlorinated water on organic soil! This obviously includes teas. But if your only source of water is chlorinated, don’t freak out. Simply drop an airstone in an uncovered container of the water for 24 hours. Your chlorine problems will be gone.

Compost Leachates: This is just compost squeezed and pressed.It’s not very nutrient rich.But it’slack of nutrients isn’t the problem (remember,using teas as a vehicle for transporting nutrients to your plants is a supplemental benefit).The problem is anaerobic activity,which can spell death for your plants.

Compost Extracts: While these provide more nutrient value than compost leachates,they still contain anaerobic activity (the big “I’m a dumbass” move in the world of organic teas).

Violent Aeration: Aeration is your friend and the key to a potent tea that’s teaming with good bacteria. But too much aeration on the scale that provides an excessive amount of agitation and turbulence to the tea-is a bad thing becuase it will actually beat the microbeasties to death! Be gentle with the teas; remember that they’re teeming with microbes!

Ultraviolet/HID/Sunlight: Avoid any high intensity lights or sunlight.Instead,use “normal” house lighting,such as florescent or tungsten.However,avoid any light source near your tea brewer.Regular room lighting is fine,but-as a rule of thumb-dimmer is better.

Mother Mary’s Tea Recipes:

***** The measurments below are for a one gallon tea bubbler. When making teas in smaller containers,simply adjust the recipe or dilute the final tea with water.

***** In these recipes, brew the tea with an airstone in a one gallon container for 24 to 48 hours. When you’re done brewing, strain it through a nylon stocking (for topical/sprayer applications) or a standard strainer (for normal watering applications) and cut it 50/50 using dechlorinated water.

***** Fungi-dominant tea compost should be mixed together and kept very wet for three to seven days prior to brewing. Store it high in a room, near the ceiling and in the dark. The microlife and fungi populations will really bloom if you place a heating pad-set to low-below the container (shoot for 68-75 degrees fahrenheit;20-24 degrees celsius). After three days,it will be visibly booming with fungus (what I call “Santa’s Beard”). Put this in your tea brewer and bubble it (in place of regular compost).

***** Prepare for the container to foam up and bubble over. You should place a tray under your tea bubbler and avoid any electrical or other items that may be damaged or unsafe around the bubbling water.

Vegetative Stage Recipe:

*** One Gallon Water :* R/O water,rain water,distilled etc. etc.

*** One Teaspoon Black Strap Molasses (unsulfured)1-0-5)*:**
Be sure to use only the unsulfured variety.This is because sulfur kills microlife,especially fungus (unless it’s elemental sulfur in small ratios).

*** One Teaspoon liquid Alaskan Fish Fertilizer (5-1-1)*:**
Fungus and bacteria both love fish ferts and go nuts reproducing when it’s included.

*** One Cup Earthworm Castings (vermicompost) or good outdoor compost*:**
Vermicompost provides humates,enzymes,protozoa,nemat odes,bacteria,fungus,trace elements,secondary and primary nutrients.

*** One Teaspoon Fox Farms Peace Of Mind All Purpose (5-5-5) :*
Food for the microlife that balances the pH of the tea (to about 6.5-7.2).

Flowering Stage Recipes:

*** One Teaspoon Black Strap Molasses (unsulfured) (1-0-5) :*
An excellent source of potassium during flowering;bacteria prefer these simple sugars,whereas the fungus prefer more complex sugars derived from various organic matter.

*** One Teaspoon Fox Farms Peace Of Mind All Purpose (5-5-5) :*
Food for the microlife that balances the pH of the tea (to about 6.5-7.2).

*** One Teaspoon High Phosphorous Bat Guano (0-4-0) :*
Fungi love this nutrient and will deliver it to the plant roots.

*** One cup Earthworm Castings (vermicompost) or regular compost :*
Good balance of nutrient (trace and secondary).Also a source for microbes and beneficial elements.

*** One teaspoon Maxicrop liquid or 1/2 teaspoon water soluble Maxicrop or kelp/seaweed extract (dry) :*
A fungal favorite,this is a key tea ingredient that produces a good ratio of happy fungus.It’s also booming with trace elements,some nitrogen,and some potassium.

*** 1/4 teaspoon Micronized (soft) Rock Phosphate :*
Fungus attach to the rock phosphate and grow on it.Also a prime source for phosphorous,magnesium & sulfur.

Fungus Dominant (halfway through flowering) Recipes:

*** 1/2 cup Earthworm Castings :*
See above.

*** 1/2 cup Mushroom Compost :*
This is fungus waiting to happen.A rich source of fungal spores and dense organic matter that fungi like to eat.

*** Two tablespoons Powdered,100% Natural rolled oats :*
Fungi love this nutrient and will deliver it to the plant roots.

*** Two teaspoons Kelp Meal :*
I use kelp meal for several reasons.It’s organic matter that fungi like to attach themselves to.Fungi love kelp extracts as a primary food source and the rich trace elements and potassium it introduces.

*** 1/4 teaspoon Micronized (soft) Rock Phosphate :*
Fungus attach to the rock phosphate and grow on it.Also a prime source of phosphorous,magnesium and sulfur.

The earthworm castings,mushroom compost,oatmeal,and kelp meal are first mixed together and made very wet.After fungus has grown on this blend,place it in your tea bubbler for 24 hours with some additional liquid (or water soluble) kelp/seaweed extract and Micronized (soft) rock phosphate.


Hey @garrigan62 How are you man? You amaze me again with this post. When making these teas…how important is it to let the tea mixture sit wet first?


You guys are just throwing gold nuggets to me lol…thanks for the info :slight_smile:


The most important thing when making these tea’s is OXEGEN you gota keep air flowing. You just can’t make it and say ok cool and just let it sit there you have to keep air flowing all the time. Or it will turn sour and it won’t be any good and also while it’s still sitting there with air floiwing you have to feed the micros so through in a tsp of black molasses,


Cool man @garrigan62 got a new air pump, 2 air stones for the bottom of the bucket. Just got some free stuff coming from referral @Drinkslinger check it out. Compost tea stuff free…minus small shipping fee.