I’m indeed aware. What I’m trying to tell you is that you can provide what you need to hit those targets with white. Due to the higher efficacy and led efficiency of the higher end cobs, the additional wavelengths usually become free photons.
Get me a link or a screenshot of the cob data, I can tell you more then. Chances are whatever numbers you’re getting are relatively useless. At 100 watt cob is usually 36 volt with max current of 3000ma. You’d be kicking yourself in the butt to actually run them that high. You would want to be more in the 1000-1500ma range. Which would make it a 40-50 watt cob.
Cutter electronics is proving to be pretty sexy, thats for the rec.
Those free photons is what makes them less efficient, even if they’re more efficient as LEDs. Love to know whether the loss in effeciency using red and blue, wins out over warm white. or the more “light effecint” warm white wins by over powering the red/blue despite its less usefull spectrums. Trial would be the only way to prove. Sorry for the lack of info on which COB or diode i wanna use. Ill have to get back on that one
Trial has proved. How many commercial grow lights have you seen released in the last year or 2 that weren’t predominantly white light?
What are you considering efficiency to be? You started this thread by asking for pods. I have yet to see any blue/red led be even close to competitive on a umol per joule level with white. Which means absolutely the opposite, white is more efficient. Doesn’t it? Perhaps the reason you can’t find the data you’re looking for on the colored cobs you’re looking at is because they’re not competitive enough to post.
White is more effecient, as in releases more photons than a red blue one. BUT if the cannabis plant doesnt want 20-30% of it than that makes it less efficient. Most cannabis LEDs i see are BLUE/RED? If not all competitive ones? Send us some links of good whites, ill check em out
Again I disagree. Most cheap grow lights are blue/red. And the expensive lights using only blue and red diodes are outdated.
I would love to post links, unfortunately that is not allowed here unless sold by amazon. Do you think it’s a coincidence that the majority don’t need to pay amazon 10-30% to sell their products?
You’re essentially barking up the wrong tree. I was just trying to help you get the most for your money. To the best of my knowledge, it’s not in knock off cob tech. But you don’t have to change your mind on account of me. Get whatever is going to make you happy.
If you can get the specs on whatever cobs you decide on, post them up. I’d be happy to help find you some driver options.
Yeah mate give me few days to find what im lookin for and ill re post. Never seen that graph you put up few messages up! Legit coincidence i put one up moments later. As for the 3000k temp which.is pretty good in the red, IMO its still falling too far to the left to the greens and yellows.
Those graphs are available from most of the reputable manufacturers. Most of them release varying color temps of each model, and you can choose whatever fits your goals for the light.
The McCree reports are fairly difficult to read not being a scientist. But the graph you posted represents the wavelengths that 100% of light is absorbed and is directed toward photosynthesis. The same report states the other wavelengths are still within the 65-80% absorption rate. Is that right, or did I read the report wrong?
Other than green they all absorb well, red just contains most energy for the plabt to use over the rest of spectrums, and blue is needed for instictive kinda shit. Almost all green.is reflected away.
If I may join, here’s something to read from Nasa and you’ll see that you’re both right and wrong at the same time, lol … In fact, it appear that white light are not better as the combination of red–green-blue light spectrum , @dbrn32@anon10428485… have a good reading my friends
~Al
P.s. you can “clic” to each pictures to 'blow up" and have a better view for reading.
If you read with attention, green lights spectrum are more efficient to go deeper through the canopy than white light and by extrapolation, give more PAR . However white lights is a better replacement or more precisely a better substitution for green lights to achieved maximum light penetration
So, the best is to have some green diodes with the traditionnal red-blue ones or put some white ones instead of the green ones… That’s what the paper say anyway and that’s what i’m going to follow when I build mine @anon10428485
I saw it as green penetrates further through because the leaves at the top or the more dominant outter leaves are strong, green and healthy, green colour means no absorbtion of that perticular colour because thats why you are seeing green! Because its bouncing off the leaves and into your eyes. If the plants were red, than that shows its not absorbing the red spectrum ect. So maybe its “penetrating” through to the leaves getting less, to no light where the green chlorophyll has started dying off, leaving the yellower pigment chlorophyll (most plants have a small percentage of yellow chlorophyll adjacent to green) and its being absorbed by that? Not sure just a theory.
It did say the blue red was most effecient and had best photosynthesising properties, and to remove red or blue LEDs to put green or white is lowering the overall red and potentially bringing blue too far down making it less effecient? In my eyes, even if green showed some sort of benefit to the bottom leaves it shouldnt come at the cost of Red.
That’s a pretty clear explanation on the benefits of green I had been looking for.
Do you know about when that report was written? The latest dates I seen referenced were early 2000’s. Specifically about how the white lights are most electrically inefficient, I don’t believe that is currently accurate. I could definitely see it as being factual 15 years ago, maybe even 10. But I think the phosphor technology has changed a bunch in recent years.
I’ve had the opportunity to replace blurple lights with white on a watt for watt level twice, with both reporting higher yield on white. Whether it be from the added color temps, higher light intensity, or just dumb luck, that’s where I’m at.
Half of my argument here is simply the performance and quality of the white cobs over the available colored. Citizen has a blue cob that seems to perform very well. But we knew how well blue diodes performed, and the report you posted supports. The problem there is that blue won’t cut it by itself. I guess what I’m thinking is, why aren’t all the heavy hitters releasing red cobs? Cree did a horticulture study, I believe using their xpe line of colored diodes in red/blue mixture. And they haven’t released red or blue cobs. You would think they would be all over it, if it were the next big thing. They’re not, and other than the blue cob from citizen, nobody is. Instead, they’re all working providing more light/less heat from their lines of white cobs.
But that doesn’t mean I would say doing what @anon10428485 is trying is dumb. Hell, I’m not above learning or being wrong. But I suspect the reason he couldn’t find any par data is because whatever cobs he was looking at aren’t competitive. You know it’s been tried, yet there’s no YouTube brag videos or such. Which are very easy to find searching any of the modern white led tech.