How Much umol m-1 s-1 emitted from 100w Diode

Need to know approx amout of ppfd will be emitted from a 100w Full spectrum LED diode if anyone got a easy answer for. Been looking to long heads sore cbf anymore.

You have a 100 watt diode? Do you mean 100 watt light, or like a 100 watt chip on board?

I’d like to help, but I’m not aware of any 100 watt diode.

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yeah COB* not diode

Wanna put 3 in a line on a alluminium heatsink and fan, two full spectrum COB and 1 Red one

Full spectrum~(Blue~Red dominant)

Which cobs?

You know you can just go with white cobs and actually produce full spectrum light right? If you want more red, use warm white. If you want more blue use cold white.

Not sure right now, some china brand i suppose

Gonna put 45° lens+fine angle reflector

On each COB

Seems to be no regulated science when it comes to LEDs and PAR/PPFD. Just numberless claims and typical salesman bullshit.

And no i dont want full real spectrum, like the sun, just reds and blues. The reason plants are green is because every visible spectrum but green is being absorbed while the green bounces off. Meaning most of the green useless. So IMO white is not efficient enough

Ok, I’m picking up what you’re putting down…

First of all, the reason there’s no exact science is because some leds are way better than others. If you want to find ppfd of a single Cree, bridgelux, or citizen cob it should be relatively easy. All you have to do is look. It’s plenty safe to say that any off brand will be significantly less. If you’re tired of looking at bs, maybe look towards leds that aren’t made by bs companies?

I’d also like to point out that while you are partially correct about color selection, white lights also provide a healthy amount of yellow light. And the photons provided from green and yellow wavelengths are definitely not wasted!

My work bench is literally covered in leds, drivers, and heatsinks right now. I can definitely help you out if you want. But I doubt you’ll find any hard data on the knock off cobs.

Providing only red and blue is not full spectrum. To be full spectrum a light needs to produce at least some amount of the colored wavelengths between 400 and 700 nanometers. This includes violet, blue, green, yellow, orange, and red. You could go one step further and say uva and far red, but those are just extensions of the violet and reds.

If you’re wanting to target specific wavelengths to create “full spectrum” you’ll probably be better off using discrete diodes over cobs. The selection is way better and gives you a lot more freedom to hand select wavelength and placement. Or perhaps building a hybrid, where you place a few colored discrete diodes around white cobs. There’s really no limit to the possibilities, but the more fancy you want to get the more you can plan on spending.

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thanks for the brand recommendation, im from Aus, so finding a company that ships hear for a cheap impossible, and the china shit i pointed at earlier is just because thats ebays recomendation to Aus, which is unfortunate that we dont have an amazon for cheap delivery. I honestly know no good LED brands so please point out as many as you can thanks!
On the spectrum matter, i only want blue(and mildly the adjacent spectrums) to tick all the plants Instinct boxes so to say, and obviously the RED because the red spectrum contains the most enegy usuable by plants. Without blues the plant will grow oddly, and using any other spectrum outside of red (yellow) just seems far less effecient? If ya catching my drift.

Have very little info on LED drives would love your opinion on how i could run 5 diffrent 300w LEDS on a single LED drive? But maybe a discussion for a new thread for others to find and help so this discussion isnt lost between the two of us.

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And not LED will give u a spike red and spike blue, they overlap slightly to other spectrums like mildy UV and IR so i spose thatll do me for that.

Cutter electronics can and should be your friend. Right in your own backyard.

I’m catching your drift, I guess you could say I’m just in disagreement. A 3500k white cob from any of the major players will provide enough blue and red light to provide the performance you want. You just so happen to get the additional photons and spectral mixing of the other colors.

Let me put it to you this way… If using blue and red cobs was the cats a$$, everyone would be doing it. Its not, everyone is using white cobs. In rare occasions you will see something like a blue cob added to some warm whites to balance the blue to red ratio. But it doesn’t sound like that’s what you’re targeting.

I would be happy to help you size a driver, but you have to find whatever cobs you’re using first. Once you have the forward voltage of the cob, and whatever current data is available, sizing driver is pretty simple. I should point out that there is limited availability of 300 watt drivers, so using multiple drivers may be needed.

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BlockquoteAnd not LED will give u a spike red and spike blue, they overlap slightly to other spectrums like mildy UV and IR so i spose thatll do me for that.

That’s absolutely not true. Several led’s will give you a spike in red and blue. Here is the spectral performance of the vero 29. Notice how the 4000k nearly hits both peaks of McCree curve? It’s just a little shy on the red. But they all show exactly what you’re saying doesn’t exist?

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images (1)

This is more or less what im targeting (which i can see you understand) and also why im not to intrested in the greens yellows oranges(kinda)

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If i want to run 5x300w systems could i use a 1500w driver?(if it excists) or would like 3x500w drivers be the go?