How long before the seedlings surface?, was an inch too much?


#1

I planted my auto flower seeds in FFOF soil about an inch down after they had a about a 1/8 inch tap root , the soil was a little dry so I moistened it and planted the seeds, I’ve been checking on them about every few hours ( its been about 48 hours since I planted them ) I’ve been using a spray bottle to keep the top of the soil moist., basicly I’m a bit confused about weather any lights should be on and am I over watering them?..did I mess up…please some advice would be a blessing right about now…( I’m using 23watt cfl’s 8 right now 20 on stand by ) …thanks…PS they haven’t broke the suface and I’m pacing like an expectent father should I be this worried?


#2

How close are the lights ? I say between 12-16 inches if the light is strong , if not maybe 6-8 inches until it sprout . Just keep the soil moist , not super wet , because seedlings can drown seriously . A light mist with a spray bottle is good , about round as a cup size . My self like to mark my seedling spot by placing a tooth pick or match stick along side of the seedling . Some can be less than 3 days , or as long as 7- 10 days depending on the light . I hate to say this honestly , but I have to inform you that FFOF has a great balance of N.P. K , but also a lot of micro organisms that can be a little to strong for germinated seeds . Many used rock wool to start germ seeds because the medium cube don’t has hardly any nutrients in the medium . I used coco coir with perlite to start seedlings for the same reason of rock wool , not hardly any nutrients in the coco . But a good method of measure is to wet the soil before you put seedling into it , and let it drain to make sure it has good drainage , and to kind of flush some of the too strong stuff down or if not out of FFOF soil . Another options is FF Happy frog or light warrior is a better choice because the micro organism is not so strong as FFOF . Now what you can do is layer your soil , which helps the grow from germinated seed to sprouted seedling . I’ll explain , say you growing in a 1 gallon , I put clayton rocks on the bottom just to cover the bottom of the pot to help drainage , than I layer my pot , let’s say 2-3 inches on top of clay pellets with FFOF and don’t really pack the soil , just spread it evenly , than I fill the rest of the pot with the lighter soil , either light warrior , happy frog , or coco coir with perlite , than I tap pot a couple times to settle the soil ah little . Once that’s done , I pour 1 gallon of ph water at 5.8 - 6.0 to wet the soil thoroughly and let it drain . Than I make a small hole about an inch down and place tap root germinated seed with the root pointing up towards the top , so when germinated seed starts to root it has to completely flip to give it ah little strength so it’s not so delicate after it sprout . But if you started in a smal cup or clone box , than you make hole in soil large enough to fit the size of the whole rock wool or cup soil with seedling , give the seedling a little root shock , super thrive B-1 green or B-1 red either one will work so the seedling don’t get shocked from roots being exposed . I know I’m writing a diary , but I’m really trying to explain each step precisely so you have a better idea of what I’m trying to help inform you with the process of starting termed seeds , are transplanting . If you used super thrive , I’ll only used 2.5 ml no more which is plenty being that super thrive is very strong as well . But it’s better to start seedlings in the final pot if you can to save time with out having to transplant . Than I mist with a spray bottle ph water just big enough to make sure seedling will get a little moist . Keep light on 24 hours at about 8-16 inches depending on how powerful of a light until seedling sprout . Once sprouted , I continue with spray mist around the sprouted seedling , not directly on the seedling , being its very fragile at this stage , do that until it start developing true leaves , and continue until the 4-5 node . By this time your seedling should be starting to focus on developing a root system . After the 5-6 node high , I add just 2.5 ml of nutrients to a gallon of water and confine misting just around the seedling . Once the plant start developing , by this time I measure ppm about 600-800 , but no more than 800 for about 1-2 weeks , and add 2.5 ml of grow each feeding which now should be water , water , feed PH at 5.8 - 6.0 . Now as the roots develop the plant will respond really well to the strong soil on the very bottom of the pot , and it should thrive really well vegging . If at all you might train or top plant , about week 2-3 would be a good time to top and it won’t be so hard on the young seedling , I’m sorry for such a long comment , but I try to think of all things to help with each step to get you started with a strong healthy seedling , that will mature without any issues that can go wrong from the Beginning . Hope this helps , and if neede the forum ground keepers which are Macgyverstoner and Latewood would chime in with they expertise to politically correct what I say or any other member says to help you . Those 2 guys are very , very , knowledgable with each process of growing from lights , square footage , the Lucas formula for growing with fertilizers , heat , fans , and anything that might consist with growing either indoor or outdoor . They are literally "Experts " seriously , and I can promise you within the time of completing a full grow they will help you get from start to finish with at least an ounce or more in your first grow . But there are many of us that hang out on the threads to pass on our experiences that we all learn from those guys . They may seem distant on weekends , be that they have regular lives just like me and you , but they will respond within a timely manner to help . Happy growing and we all cannot wait to hear or see your photos of a successful grow , harvest , and cure of some great top quality bud …Happy Growing !!!


#3

thank you for the info,My main concern at this point is Did I plant the germinated seeds too deep into the soil ( since they are auto flowering feminised seeds I planted them into 3 gallon fabric pots, So there wouldn’t be any trans planting ) I planted them ( 1 seed in each pot , 2 pots ) about an inch down and covered the holes lightly with soil, than using my spray bottle misted the top of the soil, since yesterday I’ve sprayed the soil about 4 times lightly, now with the lights out the tempiture is about 70 to 75 degrees and the humidity is about 50 to 60%, But with the lights on the temp is 80 to 87 degrees and about 30% humidity, ( and its confusing with people saying no lights till they break the surface and full lights before they do )…so this is where I’m wondering what did I do wrong or what should I do about the lights …on or off till they sprout?..also since I planted them deeper than what I’ve read did I kill my seeds?..I’m really concerned…like I said I feel like an expectent father…thanks
in your opinion what would be the best corse from here?


#4

No just give them some time. Your just being overly
Impatient as an expecting father would be…lol

Will


#5

No you fine , but you can run lights 24/0 until they sprout . If it’s CFL lights you can put them about 6-8 inches to the
Top of the soil . It’s been , what 48 hours , don’t panic it might just take a day or so longer . Truthfully CFL’ s do really well for vegging if you have the right watts per square feet . But just remember , "You cannot rush " , nor be impatient are you be stressed to the max by time you get into flower . Keep a eye on it , there are tons of video on YouTube starting seedlings with Cfl’s if you haven’t seen any . You can also download the free “Grow Bible” by Robert , but :+1: Now you doing good , just give it time . The more intense the lights , the faster the growth , but not for the whole process to harvest , with CFL your light will work but not as strong as other models . Your doing good !!!


#6

Well sometime during the night (or early morning) both seedling broke surface!..one is short and not standing straight up, while the other is tall ( about an inch and a half ), I’ve got the lights running now and ( I’m starting with 8 cfls putting out 12,800 lumens ) , this is where it doesn’t make a lot of sense to me…the temperature is about 85 degrees with only 30% humidity with the lights on (also have a 22 inch box fan for cooling and fresh air , will be replacing it in about a week with a couple of 8inch fans ) I’ve watched so many youtube videos and learned a lot…along with much confusion…lol, with the lights out my grow tent is 70 to 75 degrees and 50 to 60% humidity, this is where I’m a bit confused, light out good temp and humidity, lights on higher temp and low humidity, I’m most likely going to buy an LED grow light ( either galaxyhydro, apollo, or Marshydro 300w watt, been hearing great results with those grow lights and in my 3’x3’x6’ tent the lights footprint for two plants is spot on…) But in the meantime I have a total of 20 cfls ( total lumen output is 32,000 )…So I’m asking will the rise in temp and lower humidity hurt to “new Babies”?..thank you for all your help and support…forgot to add that the lights are 65K,50K and 31K spectrum…


#7

You will need a cheap humidifier or CO2 generator to put moisture in the air and make it cooler . But a 6 inch duct fan will work or an 8 inch duct fan , and an inline fan to remove the hot stale air out from the top of the tent . But 80-85 is not bad temperature , but lights of any type will raised temperatures . I have an Advance Led light XTE 350 and it will run my tent temperature above 95 degrees if I didn’t used a inline Cfm fan . But those are essential items needed to get climate control in the grow space , being that you have lights running 18 hours on in such small space it will get warm even with LED . 190 or 240 inline fan 6 inch will help with heat .


#8

the temperature has stabilized at about 80 degrees ( and no more than 86 tops ) but the humidity rising when the lights are off and dropping when the lights are on has me stumped…lol, as far as the lighting I’m going to be ordering a full spectrum LED grow light…300 watt ( 170 , 180 actual watts ) and using my cfl’s to supplement my lighting, as far as my “Baby girls” ( yes they are already showing their first true leaves! tiny but they are shooting up really quick ( last night I was all worried and right now they are growing amazingly fast I’m still sprinkling a little water around them now and then but I’m not pouring it on ( I’m just keeping it moist and they seem to be doing very well )…But this is the first time I’ve ever grown anything in my entire life so I’m praying and hoping for the best. As far as fans, well like I said I’ll be getting some small 8" fans for circulation and because of cost( my retirement doesn’t go a long way…lol ) I’ll be having to wait about a month for a carbon filter fan combo, but right now it’s one step at a time…thank you for all the support , I’m sure I’ll be asking more questions…lol


#9

I didn’t see any 8" fan’s but thats not saying they don’t have any.
Hope this helps


Will


#10

You doing good my brother , we all went through the exact same process , low budget , impatient , but being patient , giving the plants time to develop all takes a timely process . You are absolutely right one thing at a time . But this forum has help many like you & me get to success , and the link my brother Garrigan posted is perfect for bringing air in the grow space , but you will need an inline cfm fan to remove air out and filter the smell , cause some strains smell worst than cat piss , very strong and purgent , so that will be ah need assessory . Humidity will always rise at dark hours , and lower when lights are on , that’s what it suppose to do . Posting links sometimes be a challenge for me on this tablet , but you can get a humidifier from Walmart in the medicine area , a Vicks brand will work just fine . But in flower you will have to lower your humidity around 45% or less , 50% is okay but border line so you don’t get mold issues . We are here to help , and if not we can always chime in the experts Macgyverstoner or Latewood . Again you doing good , and for the Led model I’m not sure of the brand and its quality , but you have used what money allows as of right now . The first 5 grows will all be different until you get familiar with your choice of nutrients , soil or hydro , PH and humidity and temperature . As you go on you learn what to tweek to get better results . But so far you doing good and continue to water by misting , until the plants show you they can take more . If the leaves look ah little droopy , give them a drink , until they look like they waving .


#11

thank you for the support and advice , The temp has stabilized at around 75 to 80 degrees and though the humidity is stable at 35 to 45% the “Girls” seem to be doing good, In fact one is shooting straight up and though tiny both have tiny true leaves showing and growing…lol, one is staying rather close to the top of the soil and the other is getting really tall!..I’ve lowered the lights to about 4 inches above the tallest one ( not quite sure why she’s growing so fast , I am afraid of “stretching” but both of their stalks seam strong ( I’ll keep watching ) hopefully the lower lights will give them the photons they are hungry for,lol, also is it ok to get water spray on them when I’m misting?..again thank you for helping me with this…Peace…PS and each one is getting 6,400 lumens…for now anyway…is that too much?


#12

No light is to much , no light is better than sunlight . Now it takes a certain amount and color spectrum to make them grow , but never to much . Just to give you an idea of light distance , used the back of your hand . If the light is to warm to the back of your hand , than its to warm & to close for your girls . But no getting wet won’t hurt , just don’t spray them directly just yet , because the pressure from the spray can break them at this stage is why you mist . Now as they grow and develop more leaves , you can mist under the leaves as they get bigger , that’s where plants breath from the stomata and take in water mist faster , but I’ll wait until the 3-4 node for that . Now for as CO2 and humidity , you can build a co2 generator that’s low budget and helps with humidity in veg . They have videos on YouTube if you research it "How to build co2 generator . But as you go on you will learn like I said on what to change , and what to keep simple to give them a better enironment to grow . But you doing good , just remember keep it as simple as you can , until you finish the whole grow . I wrote a journal in a cheap calendar , so I could go back when needed for next grows . I documented each detailed , cause it’s a lot that can go wrong in a grow , so journals help correct mistakes . If you spend about an hour each day , you’ll learn to hear what the plants say they want next . Another thing , is rain forest music , yes it really works . I guess it’s the vibrations of the sounds that help them grow , and they respond like they in they normal habitat . It was almost mind blowing when I read that and tried it , but the results was like Wow ? Less is better unless they ask for more , so if you run into a issue , it’s not hard to fix .


#13

Hi Kane, be very careful when watering around light bulbs, this is for several reasons.
You can easily break the glass and create a safety hazard. Secondly I have burned my plants by having lights too close and leaving water on the leaves. I think the droplets could act as miniature magnifiers. I wait to mist my plants until its been dark for about an hour or more. When the temperature has stabilized after the lights go out.


#14

Now thats something to think about and take note of.

Will


#15

thanks for all your advice, heres some pictures of my 8 day old “Girls”…what is your opinions on how they are looking


#16

Oh I have an important question about how and when I should be watering these “Girls”, the temperature is stable at 80 to 86 degrees but the humidity I can’t get above 40% it’s almost always at about 30% they are planted in 3 gallon smart pots ( in foxfarm ocean forest soil ) under 12 23 watt CFL ( 1600 lumens each ) from 31k thru 65K light spectrum, ( I’ll be placing a 300 watt “100 3 watt " leds 140 watt true output” LED grow light ) and using the cfl’s too for perimeter lighting…OK now here’s what I was asking, How should I be watering them, I’ve read so much and researched so much that it quite frankly gets confusing the soil at the top seams to get dried out quite fast so should I water around the edges or just keep spraying the top soil?, I could really use some advice about now since I’m running about 18 to 20 hrs on ( lights ) and it’s drying out really fast, and I DON’T want to overwater them…thank you all for your help…Peace


#17

kane 3 gal pots are pretty big for seedlings the plant doesn’t consume much water on it’s own most of wath youu are losing in your water is evaporation stick your finger in the soil a couple inches from main stem. If it is moist within 1/2-3/4" deep your water is fine majority of the roots are going straight down at this point and if I recall you planted around inch deep. Most common mistake is to over water seedlings if you have dry surface soil it doesn’t mean the entire pot is dry. Humidity can be raised by adding a flat tray with just water in it to the tent or moist towels if so inclined if you have variable speed exhaust fan you can slow it down so long as this doesn’t raise temp. I also like to water only right before they dry this makes the roots strive to hunt water but is more effective as they get bigger.

Seedlings should be started in smaller pots easier to monitor and they will actually grow faster.

Very nice girls hope this helps


#18

forgive my spelling was speed typing lmao


#19

thank you for your response , But from what I’ve researched about auto flowering feminised plants they do not like to be transplanted and a 3 gallon pot is mid level for them ( most auto growers plant in 2 to 5 gallon planters, also I’ve got two huge bowls with towels half in and half out to increase humidity…so this is why I’m a bit confused about the humidity staying so low…in fact the humidity when I just checked was 25%…lol, also when I stick my finger in the soil about 2 inches down it’s not even moist, see why this is a mystery for me…any thoughts are greatly appreciated thank you


#20

Hi there, you can cut a 2 liter plastic at the top and use it for a dome to keep moist and humid.
Tom