Extend a bit? Please explain.
I looked on the AC Infinity website cannot find the splitter… Wonder if it has been released yet?
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Very cool.
I try appreciate your help! This is going to be F’in awesome… I haven’t had a project in a while.
Thinking of cutting a square hole in the side of the dimmer box and mounting one of these as opposed to the box jack.
That way you can mount the rj11 jack on the dimmer box.
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@Sammys Wife may be a but pissed now that I found a way… Thanks to you… To spend More money on my grow setup.
Just decided to get the RO Buddie 50 gallon 4 stage… Spending about $110/grow on RO & distilled waters from the store… The RO buddie 4 stage does “distilled” with 4 stages, RO with 3 stages…by bypassing the last filter.
RO buddie complete four stage 50 G per day set is $69 filters last about 1500 gallons at apprx $10 each… I run 4 plants per grow at a 8 week veg.
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@Ickey I saw that… Wasn’t sure why it has or needs the dual jacks on it…
Plus it looks and reads to be just a regular rj11 jack. Get them anywhere… Ace hardware, Lowes, menards, grocery store sometimes… Etc.
The Waco connectors that @Sammys mentioned… I’ve seen them but wasn’t sure what they were called or where where to get them. I appreciate that.
I love shopping.
If your trying to find the connectors, there actually called wago connectors and not waco. Should pop right up then.
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@Poseidon1 Found them on Amazon… Been looking at RJ-11 Keystone jacks tool less as I don’t have a punch down tool anymore. Cannot find black or red or any other color other than white.
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It appears to be two jacks wired in parallel. This would let you daisy chain the control wiring to multiple light. You can use it with using one jack as well.
This may been stated before, if your light’s driver will dim to off, (some will only dim to 10%), you can have complete control of the light with a controller.
If the light will not dim to off. You can change the driver to one that will dim to 0%. Or switch the light’s power on/off, while controlling its level with the controller.
Basically you are just changing the configuration of the two wires coming from the driver. That are dedicated to the external dimmer input. @Sammys, @dbrn32, or myself should be able to help.
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@Ickey I had that feeling one of my lights only dims down to 10%… So I would need either my current timers or the on/off plug in adapter for ac infinity.
I hope to find the AC infinity splitter… Four devices… I need more… Just a couple/few.
I may send out for help if I decide to switch the driver of the hlg light that only fims down to 10%. I feel very comfortable switching it out… Just kit selecting a proper replacement.
It’s the HLG300L bspec just found it…
Any idea what dim to off driver to replace the original with?
With the help of @dbrn32 and digi-key dot com you should be able to come up with a replacement driver.
Why would you change the driver? I can’t think of any situation where you would want your light powered up but not emitting light.
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Agreed, I would just put the power to this light on a cheap timer. Having the on/off timing out of sync with controller by a couple minutes will not hurt anything. In fact having the on cycle of the lights staged up it will help spread out, the driver current inrush on power up.
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It sounds like the controller will turn the light off if that’s what is intended?
I don’t know really, imo these controllers are a waste of money for most people.
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@dbrn32, the controller can only produce a 0-10 volt control output to light, there cannot be a digital on/off signal on this same output signal. So if the driver reads 0 volt dimmer input as 0% out you can control the off cycle with this analog output.
If you use a newer AC Infinity controller with one of their devices all control commands including on/off are delivered through their UIS communications buss.
If you are not using an AC Infinity device they offer a smart outlet. This cycles power to the device as commanded by the UIS buss.
The older AC Infinity controllers used a four wire parallel communications cables to their devices. The new controllers use a serial communications cables,(UIS), to control the devices.
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Sounds like it’s not very well suited for most tent sized grows. Most of the 300 watt or less drivers in circulation aren’t rated dim to off, and several of the larger drivers within last 3-4 years aren’t either.
Personal, If I wanted to do everything with the controller. I would use two of the controller’s outputs for the HLG light, one to cycle power and the other for the light level.
With the ability to look at conditions and make changes over your phone is a big advantage to some people. But some also, expect too much from these controllers. Since the only inputs that they have available is time of day, temperature, and humidity. Like most things they will evolve to give better functionality in the future.
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Thanks @dbrn32
@Ickey That’s probably the way I am going…
My ideal " under one controller 69" setup…
Light dim
Light on/off timer
VPD…Heater on/off
VPD… Cooling inline intake fan on/off
VPD… Humidifier on/off
Exhaust… Running constantly for fresh air.
With that I can get rid of my inkbird temp and humidity controllers… On each tent… Plus a bunch of extension cords.
Sounds like a plan. Be sure to keep us updated.
You may want to look at adding the 75 or 79 outlet controller, and using it for your humidifier, heat, or cooling. This will free up two outputs, give you a total of six outputs. Plus it will not cost much more than three of the switchable outlets. This would let you program the 75 for heat and cooling, and program the 69 for VFD.
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How big of grow is this? Reason i ask is because heaters are expensive to run, and you’ll never notice slight shifts in your vpd.
I have the means and ways to automate my grows, there simply isn’t enough value to justify doing so. I run my light at 100% output even when not necessary to keep the temps up during lights on. Then just set my exhaust fan speeds in manual to keep running but not cool much and keep intake passive.
This saves me operational costs of running heater and additional fan on intake. I have these components, but if i knew what i did now would never have bought them or the fans with controllers, which would have saved additional money. Having leaf surface temp and vpd perfect vs close is going to get you a couple extra grams per ft² at best. In a large grow probably makes more sense than typical tent grows. Especially if you’re having trouble getting things to work together.
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