Hot power cord connector

Hello hope everybody is doing well. I have a question. I noticed the connector to my LED light kit is hot when touched. Does anybody know why this section of the cord would be getting hot? If I hooked up the wires wrong the light would not be working correct? Thank you for your time and feedback I appreciate it


@larry1 Usually a poor connection will make heat.
I’d power down the circuit and check that one for any damage first.
Then the connects at the light.
@dbrn32 can lend a bit more knowledge here.



@Oldguy is correct, those connectors look like this on the inside.

Screw the one peice off then middle peice and should be 3 wires atached with little set screws.
My guess is one is lose and it can create a change in resistance causeing it to heat up…


It looks like in the picture the bottom wire is actually pulled out some so I’d start with that side.


Good eye. :+1:


15 years industrial motor control helps :grin:


Warning and danger abound.
Is the “warm” too hot to grasp? DO NOT GRASP BARE WIRES.
Electricity is the fuel for energy. Consuming energy releases heat.
MORE heat is released when the draw/load/equipment operating, is increased or malfunctioning.
Large loads, little wires, defective going equipment will draw too much current and release enough heat to combust. Under warenteed conditions? Kil-a-meter used for watt locating consumer.
Too many components tied together on small sexension cord. OR frayed sliced wire inside connector from factory. Polarity issues potential. Burn down tent/house potential. Typed replu before picture seen…
100% agree with sighted @1HappyPappy GOOD JOB GOOD EYES.


Wish I still had my eyes like I used to. :joy:


Exactly right. Poor connection increases resistance and higher resistance pulls higher current, more current will be more heat.

@larry1 check your terminations at the barrel connector.


Thank you everybody for your input. I figured as much but a second opinion is always best when iffy. It’s unplugged at the moment and will check it in the next day or so. I will let you guys know the outcome. Thank you for your time and Happy growing


Any hot spots on or in any electrical devices should be investigated, and as the previous post stated it is usually a loose connection.
Those of you that use an IR temperature gun to track VSD. This temperature gun is great for checking the these devices. Actually the non contact temperature measuring in dangerous areas is what the IR is made for.
Also, if the lights in your house flicker, or brighten and dim themselves. It is most likely a loose neutral wire somewhere. This happened at my mother’s house, and after checking all all connections in the house. I was finally able to get the power company to check things on their side. They found a loose neutral connection at their pole outside. After they simply crimped on a new connector, all was fine.

I guess, that I should add this. Modern LED home lights act differently to a loose connection. They tend to either flicker on and off, or continue to stay on but very dim when is switch is turned off.

I just received a new HLG 260 FR pre assembled light. It has the same connector, but it is a straight one. When I changed the driver to a remote mount. I found one side of this connector was not very tight at all, and the other side was fine.
If you have one of these connectors, you may want to check it. Be careful not too over tighten the little screws. It is best to use a small screwdriver with a skinny handle.

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I am still having problems with my HLG kit. I have stripped and re-assembled the connector to the power cord twice. I wish they would have used solid copper wire instead of the stranded stuff.

Smoke Alarm and Fire Extinguisher, get them.
Make sure connections are made outside of any tent.
Space heater in a tent? I don’t know. Not too safe.
Plug space heaters directly to an outlet, never use an extension cord no matter how heavy duty. I just threw away an expensive heater and cord because they fused together at the connection.
I do not want to have to call 911 if things go bad.
I also want to live. Be careful.

And never use a power bar for a heater! Usually power bars aren’t rated as high as heaters are for the wattage going thru them, and that’s where most heater fires start, at the powerbar (except for those that have stuff too close to them)

@JaneQP, actually I prefer strained wire, as it much more flexible. But I also tin the end of the wire, and this makes the end like a solid wire. This makes it work much better on screw terminals. All that you need is a small pencil type soldering iron, and a little rosin core solder. I am sure there is something online that shows how too.
Be sure to strip the wire with a tool, like one these, so that you only remove the insulation, and not the any of the strains.

If you connector is shot or shows signs of being burnt it needs to be replaced. Trying to tighten a wire in a burnt connector never works well, once it is discolored it will never conduct electrical as well.
You can replace the connector with wire nuts, if you don’t want to go through the trouble of finding a new one. Bundle the wires together after you splice the ends together with the wire nuts, as in the next picture. And then wrap the hole bundle from the wire tie up with electrical tape. Of course you will have three wires on the power in side.

You can order these little connectors from HLG, and they are very easy to work with. Makes a great connection, especially when using them with a tinned wire. Wire nuts will not need to be tinned, just twist the strains before screwing on the nuts.


Wago connectors are awesome!
They will except stranded, or solid wire, or both (try twisting a nut on that combo :face_with_peeking_eye:)

Hope you solve this dilemma soon growmie!

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Thank you @Ickey !

Best advice so far. I do have a nice pair of wire strippers/cutters. Once I unpack the unit, (moved that tent to the basement), I will take some pictures of the connector.

It came wired on the light side. I have cut and stripped the power cord twice but each time the slightest jostle and lights out.

@CLICKYBONES I do have some extra WAGOs since they sent me the wrong connection kit to begin with.

I thought that I was misspelling stranded, thanks

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