HLG power draw question

@dbrn32

So I’ve always wondered how much power I was drawing at certain positions on my rheostat for my HLG DIY 260w kits.

I have three kits. Here’s my power draw from the wall with the rheostat stunned all the way up.

57.7
67.6
53.5

Is this correct?

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@Hellraiser i’d love your $0.02

Units of power watts, volts, amps??? way out of my comfort zone but my guess your meter isn’t set to display watts.
I threw my kill-a-watt meter on my 260. At full throttle it bounced around 250 +_ a couple points

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My thinking as well

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Try pressing the reset see what that does then replug it in 300 L’s at the same boards and they put out about 2 50 plus

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On the 300s the fourth click is about 140 Watts

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This would actually explain my larffy bud issue.

So I toggled over the the amp draw…. 0.477…. This calculates out to the wattage I’m seeing…. I turn on my supplemental blurple and it Shoots up to 260w…… smh

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Same. Hit the reset and it didn’t change.

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Let me see how your boards are wired and model number on driver please

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Ok. Give me 5 minutes.

Also, I just checked my 135w b spec light, it’s cranking out 160w

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Yeah it would, somethings not right

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135 kit comes with cv/cc driver. As such thr single board is wired in parallel. The 260 kits come with variety of drivers, depending on when you bought. If boards aren’t configured correctly could do exactly as you’re seeing.

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On your driver boards should be wired in series. Driver output + to positive on one board and driver output - to negative on the other board. Then one jumper from negative on first board to positive on the other board. No other wires should be terminated on board, would leave a positive and negative open on each board.

Also, if I’m not mistaken, there is a built in pot on bottom of your driver. Make sure it’s turned all the way up.

If you still have an issue, disconnect your remote dimming pot. Let me know what you come up with.

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That looks good.

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Holy schnikes.

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Ok. I turned it up. Let’s see what happens.

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