It’s been a pretty slow day here. Any new grower lurkers care to post their questions? Every one of us have been where you are at the moment. Step up and ask the community. We all want you to be successful.
@MidwestGuy How about some recommendations for drying and curing? My first girl just went in a wedryer this morning because the tent still has the other two finishing their flower. Is sweating needed before the cure? If so, how do you know if your done sweating them?
The ideal dry is 7 to 10 days at 60% humidify and 65 to 70F temps. When stems crush nicely and do not break, then start a 3 to 4 week cure of your flowers. The temp and RH values remain the same. Cure at ~60% RH and 68F temp for a few weeks then give the flower the same conditions for long-term storage.
So not new here
But I’ll start the party off .
Does this look like a male to you
Gorilla glue auto
I’m pretty sure it is but i do have a serious inquiry.
I’ve sorta been hoping this will happen at some point so I could harvest some auto pollen.
My question is how do I harvest pollen and store it🤔
Is your question how you generate male pollen for breeding, or how you store it?
Well it was about how to collect it from the plant and then store it to be manually applied later for breeding.
But you raised a good point and correct me if im wrong because I’ve never “flowered” a male.
I assume it still has to grow, transition, and then grow lots of male flowers and at some point there would be viable pollen
There are many articles out there about using colloidal silver or sodium thiosulfate to breed cannabis. I’m sure the articles discuss male pollen storage and pollination methods.
I’ve not done any breeding, but there are a few growers here who do.
Iv been growing a few years usually I get clones or mother plants.
This year I’m gonna start from seed on my own when is a good time to start germinating . Without over growing my plants indoors and risk them being in shock when going out doors …… in CA
Open the box up, shake the flowers into the top part or even strip the flowers off into the box. Replace the lid. Shake well. Pollen will sift into the bottom.
Some folks use cooked flour to cut into the pollen. The flour adds volume, cooking it removes moisture and bacteria. Think edible cookie dough.
Then, cut or pure, store in vials in a cool dark place, just like your seeds.
edited to add tag to link
Seems like my Bruce Banner has matured differently . Is it okay to chop what’s ready and leave the rest for another 2 weeks. How much would I be able to chop at a time without stressing too much, the lower half and some side branches still have too much white pistols.
@RAB89 Yes… I and many others harvest upper finished buds and allow the lower to continue.
Seedlings start with two rounded cotyledons.
The first “true” leaves will form over the next 2–3 weeks, seedlings will mature, and produce a large number of fan leaves…required for photosynthesis.
This marks the beginning of the vegetative phase.
As they are drying, as @MidwestGuy said, you can also check the moisture level of the buds to see if they are dry enough.
A wood moisture meter is all you need… I use a long pronged one so I don’t crush the buds I’m testing.
10-12% internal bud moisture level equals approx 58-62% RH in a jar, bag,etc.
I then bag them to sweat them for 12-24 hours with hygrometers. When they are stable… I bag them in grove bags… Eliminates the daily burping of using a jar for curing.
Here’s another thread on grove bags by @Audiofreak
Now how much is too much to harvest?? I’d say alittle over half my plant is ready but I don’t know if I chop what’s ready that it will stress the plant too much
No such thing, really. Stress is fine for a plant so close to end of life - worst she can do is try to throw nanners, which, unless you’ve got other plants in there with her, it’s not a problem at all. Even if ya do, a little nanner extraction is pretty easy to do.
You have to check the tricomes… Cloudy? A bit of amber? Those are ready
Nice I switched to 25000 lux now