Help with discoloured/curling leaves please?


#1

I’ve put this is here as I cannot identify if my plants have a nutrient, environment or disease problem.

They are in week 5 of flower and to be honest seem to be coming along nicely but the problem now with the leaves seems to be getting slightly worse and spreading

I’d really appreciate it if anyone could help identify the problem please?

Thanks


#2

To get yourself help faster, I’d suggest you cut and paste this into the thread with your info.

COPY/PASTE: This “Support Ticket” into your forum post.
Answer these simple questions the best you can.
If you do not know, or do not use something; Just say so = NA

Strain; Type, Bag seed, or NA

Soil in pots, Hydroponic, or Coco?

System type?

PH of runoff or solution in reservoir?

What is strength of nutrient mix? EC, or TDS

Indoor or Outdoor

Light system, size?

Temps; Day, Night

Humidity; Day, Night

Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size

AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,

Co2; Yes, No

Add anything else you feel would help us give you a most informed answer. Feel free to elaborate, but short, to the point questions and facts will help us help you smile


#3


before we rush to this I need you to fill out the ticket best you can and confirm no bugs are present the info you provide my point to a different cause so appearance alone can’t be only supporting factor…


#4

Great thanks for the replies. Hope this helps:

Strain; White Widow from seed
Soil in air pots
System type ?? (not sure what this means?)
PH not known
What is strength of nutrient mix? 1.4 EC
Indoor
Light system 3 x 400w HPS
Temps; Day 25C, Night 18C
Humidity; 50%
Ventilation system; Fresh air in with Carbon Filter out
AC: Fan cooled lights
Co2; No

I had some big fluctuations with heat/cold early on but I’m hoping to have solved that now. I dont believe any bugs are present.

Would any more info help?


#5

Also, I’m using a bud booster now and I’ve started adding a Mag/Cal nutrient but it doesn’t seem to be helping the leaves already affected


#6

soil/hydro drip irrigation

if you don’t know this that is the biggest problem or causing the biggest problem should I say Calcium is only usable for your plant in certain ph ranges without knowing ph there is no way for us to help you adjust it accordingly the link on my previous post should help but I highly recommend you get a ph meter asap


#7

Calcium damage can not be reversed by the time you see the damage it has been a working it’s nasty effects for awhile like a cancer eating away at your plants insides. the only indicator that you are correcting the issue is new growth remains healthy foliar sprays can help speed improvement but with your EC putting you at around 900+ ppm you have the nutrients there and the cause is simply ph related


#8

Thanks again

Its soil, and I water manually, daily

I only use rainwater from a butt (not tapwater) so I was hoping ph would be quite normal. I can test later and will post up the reading


#9

if you add nutrients to water it changes the ph of the water raising or lowering it so though straight rainwater can be a good ph you greatly effect it by what you add and what your soil has in it. This is why even in soil a ph meter is important you can fix your plant but don’t be surprised if some older growth continues to show signs trimming it off after adjusting ph would help your plant recover faster.


#10

@Gunther1968

@Donaldj
He has given you sound advise. It’s very important to have a P H meter with out it it’s next to impossible to give you an accurate accounting of what’s going on with your plants.
You can pick one up at your nearest hardware store

Will


#11

I have had the same thing going on with my iced widows 1/2 of the grow and have been adding 5 ml of cal mag a gallon since the begging so I’m pretty sure it’s more on the ph side I’ve been on mine a lot more since noticing and new leaves seem fine since then might just be the strain that’s so touchy.
But then again my ph being off could of caused my plant to not absorb the cal/mag and reason it’s better since I’ve been on the ph is cause it is actually absorbing the cal mag now so yea is prob both!


#12

I check my PH with every watering. Even water I’ve already adjusted. It seems to change. I believe I read it changes with temperature? Not sure, but I’m in the habit of always checking. PH is so important. Something to consider if you get yourself a meter.


#13

Ok, thanks guys for all the replies and advice

I picked up a tester today and my water measured 7.0 at first and then, after adding the Mass Booster and a dose of Magne/Cal it measured 6.4

Obviously I’ve no way of knowing now what it was measuring in the past but if it was a similar reading, could this be the reason for the leaves looking so uncomfortable? Does I need to adjust this?


#14

For soil, that’s not a bad PH. I’d personally stop adding nutrients until these pro’s can help you out. And they will :+1:


#15

my concern isn’t what you water it at it’s what the run off is coming out as this gives an insight as to the ph of your soil and what your roots are living in


#16

this doesn’t mean that at earlier feeds with different products your ph wasn’t way lower or higher. You need to test run off as soil itself will also effect ph


#17

Ok chaps. I’ve tested the soil as per the guide and after 24 hours the ph is measuring 6.4.

Does this give us any clues please?


#18

Well has condition continued to worsen? The fact is once leafs are damaged they don’t heal and since you are 5 weeks into flower all you can hope for is damage control your plant is already entering end of it’s life and some degradation is natural.
If it hasn’t continued to worsen then just ride it out until harvest at this point leafs will start to shrivel and die naturally if it gives you peace of mind you can cut off damaged leaves it may give plant more energy for buds.


#19

I’m still a noob, myself, but your situation sounds familiar to when I first started growing in soil. I read that the plant’s nutrient needs change mid flower causing the ph to drift down on top of needing more cal/mag at the same time, which is better absorbed at higher ph, 6.2-7.0, I believe.

The solution I found was to mix powdered dolomite lime into the top of the soil a couple weeks into flower. I think I’ve had 4 grows since where I haven’t had this problem.

I know you said your ph is 6.4, but if you can’t find a solution, you could give it a try in a future grow. Do your research, of course, but it shouldn’t hurt anything. It buffers the ph closer to 7.0 and it’s probably better than using liquid cal/mag.


#20

@Gunther1968,

Check this out

Boron

First signs of the deficiency are abnormal growth tips. Having not enough boron can also invite troubles for fungus problems from the internal tissues to rot away, as well as the root hairs along with them being discolored. To avoid having a Boron deficiency try to keep the ph below 7 and to improve the moisture as
well as retaining light soils.

Too much boron in your plants can produce a lot of problems. The leave tips turn yellow progressing inwards causing the plant to soon die slowly along with leaves dropping a lot.
Can show same signs as if a magnesium deficiency, but only happens on newer growths. Parts affected by a boron deficiency are: Growing points and young leaves.

Pic’s 3 and 4 show it

Problems with Boron Being Locked out by PH troubles

Soil ph under 5.5 or over 6.8, sandy soil, soil with low organic matter and or lack of nitrogen.

Will