Are you just adding straight into the reservoir? You can damage the roots that way as stronger concentrated parts hit the roots before everything settles down to the final mixed PPM or pH.
The first signs of leaf problems often start at just the tips or outer edges and then become the worse more notable stuff like on your other leaves.
Yea that’s how Ive been doing it when adding ph an other nutes…what other way should I do it …I have a blue tube that goes to the bottom to show water should I butbin there?
No, normally you want to mix in a separate container, then pour this pre-diluted/pre-pH’ed mix into the reservoir.
Also, for as big and fast of growing of a plant as you are growing, you might want to look into having a larger reservoir. A larger reservoir will buffer both pH and PPM changes. The changes will be less dramatic with larger volume.
Ok ic so i should mix all my nutrient in a gallon jug and if it needs more nute during the week pour somme in…Im haveing som rot root problem there a lil browmish I think that’s why I’m havin somw problems…I just order roberts rot root nutes hope it will turn it around …i was puttin hydrogen peroxide but then I heard it was bad for them so I order roberts stuff…itit’s pretty bad
Root rot could also be from not enough air or water temps that are too high or a combination of both. The more air in the water, the better aeration, the higher temps that can be in the reservoir without having problems, but at higher temps, water has a problem holding dissolved oxygen and low dissolved oxygen leads to root rot and nutrient uptake problems as well as pH stability problems. You really need the reservoir’s temps well below 78F/26C, some say as low as 65F but I find under 75F to be sufficient with plenty of aeration. Keeping the reservoir below 78*f consistently, 24/7, is very important.
A hydrogen-peroxide regiment is not necessarily bad but with an organic nutrient system it might kill some beneficial bacteria and throw things out of balance. In some systems it can be used safely and effectively to keep bad bacteria at bay. I prefer to have lots of natural air/aeration to keep the bad bacteria at bay. You need to keep the air temp of the room at 78*F or below to keep your reservoir at this temp or below unless you want to invest in a recirculating system that will run your reservoir through an aquarium chiller like device.
The beneficial bacteria provided by the anti root rot stuff should help a lot.
What size water cooling cyclinder what I’d is that what I should get if I decided to get one I saw one in ebay for 30 bucks couls u send me a link to one I have a 2 gallgallon not sure what size I would need
Maybe if you can increase the exhaust at the top to vent the hot air faster with a more powerful fan or at higher speeds, this might get temps lower. Also maybe some light proof vents at the bottom might increase the airflow which would be good for the plant’s CO2 as well as lowering the heat building up at the top of the cabinet/closet.
A complete reservoir change would also help in the mean time. If you have a extra airpump and airstone you might want to add that to the reservoir as well. The top of the plant still looks overall very healthy and although the roots do look kind of bad, they don’t look too far gone, I think if you get the reservoir’s temps under control a lot of your other problems will vastly diminish.
Not aig fan if Jungle Juice. 2 bad experiences. I think you just shocked them abit and the wilted for a while. Follow MacG’s advice and you aill be good to go!
No. Light in the res’ is not the issue. MacG just wants to make you aware that NO light should be allowed to penetrate into the reservoir. This is because it promotes algae growth. Algae smothers roots.
I wasn’t being very serious about adding the aquarium chiller, they are very expensive and usually are designed and used for the really really large saltwater aquariums, like 100 gallons or something and cost hundreds of dollars or at least close to a hundred at least. And so at $30 I have no idea what you are thinking about using. And as the cost of a decent one is kind of expensive, they are usually only used in much larger grows.
I think if you can increase the turnover of air in your grow box/cabinet/closet/room, by having the exhaust fan move more air – faster speeds or more powerful fan, or make it easier for the air to move and easier for the fan to do its job by making the airflow easier by having better vents so the fan doesn’t have to fight sucking fresh air into the box/cabinet/closet/room through very tiny slits or seams, and this could drastically lower the temps in the box/cabinet/closet/room. And by doing this hopefully you would be able to get the room’s temp down without removing lights.
Ok thx a lot guys for the info I was able to to the room temp down to 77f…and the water temp is at 75.7. …roots have a lot of new growth and white.mmbut still have a lot of brown slime look ya know…
I bought a installion bag from walmart thinking maybe if I keep my water/ nutes at like 69 degrees and the wrap the bag around only leting the stem and air tub anythoughts…but I recently open my crossbase thats right next to my box with a fan on it since there’s cool air underneathm Im able to run all 3 cfls and my lleds room temp 77 reservoir temp at 75.9 76??
Sounds good, if your temps and such are holding, you shouldn’t need to do anything more, insulating the reservoir with that bag might not help as it is insulating from the cold fresh air being brought into the lower part of the room.
Its been awhile but I’ve ran into another problem. I’m a week and a couple days into flowering process. The problem is Im running out of room between my cfls and my plant. I have 3 bars up top for light as well can I finish flowering with just those leds??? Ihave the cfls points up as mush as they can go
I don’t know what to tell you, I’d figure a way to mount the lights at the top with the LEDs, less intense light during flowering will likely mean light and airy buds.
Here’s and update about to start week 3 of flowering no signs of any buds worrying about the height of the plant I moved the lights to the top…wondering if I should top some of the higher colas but I’ve read its bad to do during flowring but there’s no buds any suggestions? ?
Ppms at 900 lights at 10 hours on 14 off to get flowering going
I think you want to start removing the undergrowth, not the tops. Now is more the time to remove any tiny buds that just don’t get enough light and won’t produce well and will take energy away from the main “tops” and possibly prevent them from becoming as big as they would without that drain.
12 posts were merged into an existing topic: Much help needed