I am not certain what is going on. I have three different grow methods going on1. The aero garden grow. 2 the big box grow. 3 the deep water grow. Aero garden has tow CFL lights. The big box grow has a 100 watt mhd light and the Dwc has a full spectrum grow led light if you look at the uploaded pictures the leaves on the one plant are white and the leaves underneath are white and look like they are dying and dry the aero garden leaves look like they are starting to curl up and the Dwc is looking like they are growing like weeds this is my first grow I am not cash cropping this is for the wife and I but I love this and am freaking out over the one plant looking rough but the one next to it looks great they are seeds from Robert so I know they are good I only had one that did not sprout please any help before I lose my lady .
CFL’s (lighting) is not the issue. Looks like a nutrient or ph issue due to the way it’s spreading. One can get LED burn on leaves if using but for that it’s got to be very close Nutrients? The plant will get better but it has a 2 week head start in fixing it
Could you fill out a support ticket for each separate grow that you’re doing? It would help the boys figure out what’s going on with your girls.
I’m still a newbie, but I would flush your plants that are looking weird immediately. Check your run off for pH and ppm. What pH water have you been giving them? It almost looks like tobacco mosaic virus, but I don’t think it is because usually with that virus you’ll get the leaves to bend side ways, as well as have that light green pattern on the leaves.
But trust me, if you can fill out support tickets and post them on here, the boys will get right back to you with good answers and advice for you!
Steve thanks for that. Quick question the girl in question is in the big box ( 1 foot deep x 4 foot wide x 7 foot tall) it has the 9000 lumen 100 watt mh bulb. It is currently about 2 foot from the light I am using the jungle juice grow and micro. I am using 1/4 tsp per gallon of water in each. I am using a flow system that j am adding new water and nutrients every 2weeks on Monday ( or today) the water was being kept at 78 degrees for the last 28 days. After reading some articles I took that out to cool down the water. I am attaching some pictures to see if you see anything.
I am going to I don’t have a ph meter. Everyone I read an article I started a new grow the Dwc was the newest and has leaped ahead in growth and performance the box box is not doing it at all they are growing but now I have this new issue. I am going to fill out a ticket as well. I thought the tobbaco as well but when I really looked into it it did not appear to be the same. Thanks for the help. Please any advise you have let me know.
I do not see a support ticket yet BUT!; 12 years ago when I started out, I used Advance Nutrients. I eventually tried Jungle Juice, and all my plants came out like yours. I quit using it after 2-3 reservoir changes. I think it is the Jungle Juice. Get a different nutrient system. Just my $.03 worth. 
Your lumens are good Formula Lxw = ? then 2,000 x’s ? ( 1x4=4 than 4x’s 2,000 is 8000 lumens. (2,000 lumens per square foot of coverage . You have an extra 1,000 lumens - that’s great More Light= Bigger Buds. Your grow set up looks great !!! Good brand of nutrients Led’s 12-16 inches from tops. Can use “back-of-hand test” fro correct light distance
Latewood hope all is well with you. Thanks for giving me your knowledge. I would be remiss if I did not listen. How
Long does it take to ship Roberts nutrients to the states. Or can you offer me your experience and what nutrients I should use. Thanks again and I hope all is well with you
I think Robert’s Marijuana Booster takes a week or so. IN general if all goes well, it does not take very long.
I started out with this
http://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Flora-FloraBloom-FloraMicro/dp/B0024NDVRA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1440768233&sr=8-1&keywords=general+hydroponics+flora+series?tag=greenrel-20
Adding this:
http://www.amazon.com/Botanicare-Cal-Mag-Plus-Quart/dp/B004JKBMRW/?tag=greenrel-20
I used the above nutrient system for 3-4 years before changing to Dutch Master.
I am invested in Dutch Master Advance + additives below:
Grow part A
http://www.amazon.com/Dutch-Master-Advance-Grow-1L/dp/B002JQJ1DK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1456175105&sr=8-4&keywords=dutch+master+advance+grow+a?tag=greenrel-20
Grow part B
http://www.amazon.com/Dutch-Master-Advance-Grow/dp/B002JQSIV6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456175195&sr=8-1&keywords=dutch+master+advance+grow+a ?tag=greenrel-20
I actually buy Advance Flower A and B in 5L Jugs. We use that the most. It takes very little Advance grow A and B because most growers use lower ppm solution, and a shorter Veg period.
I also buy Max in 5L but, that is not necessary at 1st. (1 TBS per 4 gallons-5 gallon bubbler system)
In the same bubbler 4 Gallons, We only use 3ml of Zone, and 7ml of Silica, so this lasts a long time. 1 liter bottles will do.
Hope this helps. Once at amazon; You may find a better deal but these are not priced too high. Let me know if any of the links do not work. lw
Don’t know why that 1 link has no image???
Another great thing about the Dutch Master is; They have a really good nutrient calculator on their website. You pick the products you are using;’ You pick how many Gallons or Liters you are mixing; It tells you how much of each to use.
They also have a light nutrient to heavy nutrient choice too.
latewood:
Thanks so much for the information.
I am ordering all of these now from Amazon.
You are proven and have the skill. I am a newbie wanting to learn.
I love growing I keep detailed logs of the ladies and I was frisking out as it has gotten worse over the last 2 weeks.
Should I flush with straight water for the next couple of weeks or keep the nutrients that I have in and then convert them over when the new chemicals?
Thanks again
What we need you to do is; Go to beginner section and find “ILGM Support ticket” Fill it out best you can, and paste in this topic.
Even though I had strong opinion about Jungle Juice…I have no idea what your water is like, etc.
As far as plants you have. Do you have any Liquid Karma or Superthrive. Both are great for plant stress. Looking at them, I am not sure if I would place in plain PH 5.8 water or not. Again; If I knew the PH and PPM of your water, it would help me to give you informed advice.
Meanwhile, I think you probably want top place them in fresh water ph at 5.8, and hope for the best. When DM nutes arrive; Mix up a batch between 400-600 ppm ph at 5.8
You do have PH down; Right?
if you don’t have ph meter you should
Ph fluctuation…It’s not your product line starting hydroponics with no ph meter is impossible am I the only person that noticed this comment?[quote=“Bigdogsrock1, post:5, topic:4744”]
I am going to I don’t have a ph meter. Everyone I read an article I started a new grow the Dwc
[/quote]
If you don’t accurately know your ph in hydro it makes no difference which products you are using
Just thought I would throw my 2 cents in, I have had tobacco mosaic virus on my outside marijuana plants before. It took over a whole patch I had planted! You will notice that tmv only affects one side of a leaf blade, causing it to curl on one side looking like a crescent. I watched my 6, 8 footers die a slow death. Not fun good luck, Mike
I would also purchase a pH pen if you’re buying all the nutrients too. It’s probably the most important part of a hydro grow.
I truly dont unserstand why a Support Ticket wasn’t posted.
But here it is.
We can better help you when you finish filling this ticket out.
Thanks
Will
COPY/PASTE: This “Support Ticket” into your forum post.
Answer these simple questions the best you can.
If you do not know, or do not use something; Just say so = NA
Strain; Type, Bag seed, or NA
Soil in pots, Hydroponic, or Coco?
System type?
PH of runoff or solution in reservoir?
Pt
What is strength of nutrient mix? EC, or TDS
Indoor or Outdoor
Light system, size?
Temps; Day, Night
Humidity; Day, Night
Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size
AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,
Co2; Yes, No
Add anything else you feel would help us give you a most informed answer. Feel free to elaborate, but short, to the point questions and facts will help us help you
Donald Thanks for the feedback. The problem is/was knowing exactly what everyone was wanting and talking about. I had a ppm stick pen and apparently we had a ph reader in the garage that I had no idea about. That has all been since corrected. My ph is 5.8 and my ppm is 778. ( For the newbies on here the hard part is knowing exactly what we are looking at. Ex: Is the ppm inclusive of the chemicals in the water if using tap water? Is it reading those chemicals and the chemicals from the nutrients. Should you use distilled water alone? Purified water? Ebb and flow system? Deep water Culture? The problem with trying to diagnose and fix problems with the ladies is there is no one definitive guide that I have found that states Do this and you should see this. With no PH meter the first 30 days my growth showed solid growth, one moment of chemical burn that I flushed and fixed. I am a daily reader of the blogs on here attempting to learn from all those that are significantly more knowledgeable than I am. That is why we turn to people with experience to help guide and grow our knowledge in a new art that has so many challenges from discreet growing, recreating outdoor conditions indoors, and unless you find a site like this you can’t walk into the local hydro store and starting showing pictures and having discussions even if you talk under the cover of tomato plants. Thanks again for being patient and understanding of us newbie growers that have read and still many many opportunities to grow and develop our skill. Yours with great respect:
Will:
Sorry I missed your post this morning. The reason a ticket was not posted is my inability to provide the exacting information that is being requested in the help ticket. I have the intention of creating a help ticket when I can answer the questions that need to be answered so I do not waste every ones time. Which is what I intend on doing today after the ladies get out of their sleep cycle. There are also other indicators that the new person ( two months experience only) does not know or understand> Nutrient strength> E.C. or TDS? Strain: Type- Bag seed (Not sure what that is) The biggest thing I learned from asking the question is the huge impact knowing your PPM and PH can create. Growing up on a farm we dealt in livestock. Now I wish we had been agricultural I am confident I would not be facing this daunting learning curve. That said once I have the information I will be filling out help ticket to better answer all of these issues. Thanks again Will I have read several of your posts and look forward to partnering with you and your guidance to grow big beautiful ladies.
the reasoning behind a support ticket is it provides information and encourages you looking at seemingly minor factors which may be an issue.
The forum format means many people see the variables and look at things from different angles this means thing we may miss another may notice 
For instance did you know that a plant can hide issues for weeks before they become obvious or visible but by knowing what they are fed compared to what they eat (ppm/tds) you can judge their health. A plant can also greatly effect it’s environment (roots can change ph) they consume nutrients which buffer ph and produce reactions in their media. Ph fluctuations can be caused by root rot and or general plant health issues too much co2 in water. This is also greatly effected by a reservoirs temp bacteria or algea present
The reason there is no definative guide is each plant is different as is each environment what works for 1 seed may not work for another.
tdds/ppm is taken after mixing nutrients keep in mind that tap water fluctuates too this is the reason many use RO water for hydro no unknowns 