This discoloration is spreading to my other plants. Leaves have spots and I checked for pests, none. Purple kush and flowering. No Nukes for a months, PH is 7
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Your not feeding and your ph is to high 6.3-6.5
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Can’t do nothing about the PH. Once these went into flower I stopped feeding nitro. I thought it might have been from the heat a week ago. It was 117 F/47.22 C .for a week.
Why can’t you do anything about ph your water
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All you need is a cheap ph meter
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Your plant isn’t taking up any nutrients because ph is off
6.3-6.8 for soil
I guessing you have no idea what your ppm of your run off is do you
Can you fill this out we will be glad to assit once info has been provided also a picture of the entire plant would help us help you
COPY/PASTE the below list into your forum post.
Answer these simple questions the best you can.
If you do not know, or do not use something; Just say so = NA
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Strain; Type, Bag seed, or NA
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Soil in pots, Hydroponic, or Coco?
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System type?
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PH of runoff or solution in reservoir?
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What is strength of nutrient mix? EC, or TDS
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Indoor or Outdoor
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Light system, size?
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Temps; Day, Night
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Humidity; Day, Night
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Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size
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AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,
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Co2; Yes, No
If you can, upload a picture of your plant. It helps the diagnosis, if needed.
Add anything else you feel would help us give you a most informed answer. Feel free to elaborate, but short, to the point questions and facts will help us help you 
Thanks!
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It’s coming out of my well. To get it down to 6.3-6.5 I need a four foot tall filter in line with all my house plumbing and that’s impossible. Growing indoors is not a problem I can control the water and soil.
In my opinion I think the plants are maturing and the roots are growing deeper than 3 feet into alkaline soil where the PH is around 11.
Is there something I can add to the soil to get the PH below 7
Water is coming out of my well. To get it down to 6.3-6.5 I need a four foot tall filter in line with all my house plumbing and that’s impossible. Growing indoors is not a problem I can control the water and soil.
I think the plants are maturing and the roots are growing deeper than 3 feet into alkaline soil where the PH is around 11.
Is there something I can add to the soil to get the PH below 7
Ok i use well water to i get what you’re saying about your soil ph. You are stuck it’s gonna be what it will be at this point if your down to 3 ft deep with roots. I want to say use dolmatic lime or something similar but you need it to skip your main roots and get to the bottom root section where the feelers are. That’s going to be tough
SARE.org is a farming website with great information and might be able to help. What part of th country are you in and what is your grow zone number
Here is a picture of the plant that’s starting to get the spots. It’s purple kush purchased from IGLM and I think you can answer the rest of your questions from the photo.
Before I forget it was 117 F about a 1 1/2 weeks ago for a week. Currently the temps are between 70 at night and 104 in the day.
This reply came over while I was sending you another photo. I sent you a photo of the plant. You can see it’s healthy. Spots are in the bottom right of the plant. It hasn’t spread to the others yet.
Thanks for SARE.org,
I live in Southern Nevada where a good well is 500 feet and there’s a river a 1/4 mile away, the desert.
I forgot to mention it’s clone of the original purchase from IGLM.
Another quick question. I purchased some OG Kush AF from IGLM. Can auto-flowers be cloned? I want to give it a try. Anything special I should know.
I can certainly relate to you issues. I have very similar ones but not quite as severe. I’ve got well water at 7.8pH, native soil with lots of clay at 7.8pH and daytime highs around 100°-102°F. You CAN modify pH. I fill gallon jugs with water and dose them with pH Down to get into the right range. I’m growing in bags currently, but I’m preparing for next year in the ground by excavating holes (7’ x 3’) and building a 12” high raised bed around them. Not fun work in this heat. I’m backfilling holes with amended native soil to get a more friendly pH, all the nutrients and microbes they’ll need and the drainage they like. It’s not necessary to go as big as I am but I like overdoing it. My point is, you CAN make adjustments in your situation - it just takes time, planning and forethought. You can get an Accurate 8 pH meter from Amazon for about $60US. I’m amending my soil to be around 6pH to compensate for my alkaline water. This will help me out quite a bit.
Water filtration. HydroLogic sells a combination RO/sediment/carbon filter system that does 150 gallons of water a day. Hook it to your water hose where you get your water from. It’s $150US on Amazon. Buy a 55 gallon drum or two and you can clean up the water and have plenty for your plants. It’ll help lower the pH also.
First thing I’d do is get some pH Down and adjust some of your well water to 6.3pH and water for a bit. Don’t add ANY nutes if you’ve been feeding. At the high pH you’re talking about, there’s no telling how much nutrient is in that soil but is locked up. If you give them the proper pH they may be able to get what they need. I’d have some FoxFarm Sledgehamer ready in case the proper pH’d water causes them to uptake too many nutes.
I’m surprised issues haven’t arisen earlier with those pH problems!
You might try giving them a 1/2 strength dose of Armour Si which will also help with heat stress. Kelp is also a big help with heat stress and shouldn’t be a problem during flower. Those high temperatures coupled with what I’ll bet was very low humidity certainly stressed those plants and didn’t help. But your pH issues are the biggest problem.
Hope this helps in some way and that you get it worked out!
Cloning autos won’t work well. The plant has a definitive life cycle and the clones are identical to the mother. So, they’ll consider themselves way into adulthood. They won’t start over like photos will. Think of it as cloning a 40 year old woman and getting a 40 year old woman instead of a baby you can shape and mold. Lol. Hope I explained it right. Lol
You don’t need any of that. Some PH down or if you prefer organic; lemon juice. PH up or baking soda. You adjust the PH of your water (normally a few drops) and check using a good digital PH meter. FYI: the commercial PH up and down is a far better alternative for a number of reasons.
Your plant is suffering from some burns too no doubt from the excessive heat. High heat will affect how the plant takes up liquid and this can have a disastrous effect on the plant. You might not even see an issue until a stress like this occurs.
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Do they have a forum I’m missing? Or is the SARE website just a database of farming-related articles and such? I haven’t had a ton of time to look around and I’m on my phone right now. Just curious.
Not sure where you are but it sounds close by. Our co-op is having a raised bed class this next Wednesday. This was my planned for next year.
Everything in my green house is 3 feet down. Another problem might be this is my 2nd year with the same soil, just tilled and some worm castings added. I stopped us Age Old Grow 12-6-6 about a month ago. Getting ready to put fox farms Tiger Bloom on them. Should I wait until I get the PH worked out first?
I’ll pick up some PH down and the water system will have to wait until next year. To late in the season.
I get lost on that one because it’s like a overload of information it doesn’t help if i smoke a fat bat before i get on there lol 
I did more research and found that after this grow dig a deep hole in each area you plan to grow in so let’s say you dig 3ft dump a bag of blood meal in it or if you can get blood from a slaughter house will work to. This will jump start all the healthy microbes. Water this then put manure mixed together with lime or dolmetic lime wet it down you can spray cannazyme on this for faster break down and then fill with your soil mix. This will help to bring down the ph levels in your deep soil and get all the microbes and fungi awake from being dormant. In between You’re cannabis plants you need something with deep roots like a raddish and some type of a clover or cowpeas hairy veech. You will be creating a oases but it will hold moisture and put nitrogen back into the ground for your farm to really grow. Hope this helps you
Microorganisms abound in the soil and are critical to decomposing organic residues and recycling soil nutrients. Bacteria are the smallest and most hardy microbe in the soil and can survive under harsh conditions like tillage. Bacteria are only 20–30% efficient at recycling carbon, have a high nitrogen content (3 to 10 carbon atoms to 1 nitrogen atom or 10 to 30% nitrogen), a lower carbon content, and a short life span. Carbon use efficiency is 40–55% for mycorrhizal fungi so they store and recycle more carbon (10:1 carbon to nitrogen ratio) and less nitrogen (10%) in their cells than bacteria. Fungi are more specialized but need a constant food source and grow better under no-till conditions. Soil organic matter (SOM) is composed of the “living” (microorganisms), the “dead” (fresh residues), and the “very dead” (humus) fractions. Active SOM is composed of the fresh plant or animal material which is food for microbes and is composed of easily digested sugars and proteins. The passive SOM is resistant to decomposition by microbes (higher in lignin). Active SOM improves soil structure and holds plant available nutrients. Every 1% SOM contains 1,000 pounds of nitrogen, 100 pounds of phosphorus, 100 pounds of potassium, and 100 pounds of sulfur along with other essential plant nutrients. Tillage destroys SOM by oxidizing the SOM, allowing bacteria and other microbes to quickly decompose organic residues. Higher temperatures and moisture increase the destruction of SOM by increasing microbial populations in the soil. Organic residues with a low carbon to nitrogen (C:N) ratio (less than 20) are easily decomposed and nutrients are quickly released (4 to 8 weeks), while organic residue with a high C:N ratio (greater than 20) decompose slowly and the microbes will tie up soil nitrogen to decompose the residues. Protozoa and nematodes consume other microbes in the soil and release the nitrogen as ammonia, which becomes available to other microorganisms or is absorbed by plant roots.
Higher temperatures and moisture increase the destruction of SOM by increasing microbial populations in the soil. Organic residues with a low carbon to nitrogen (C:N) ratio (less than 20) are easily decomposed and nutrients are quickly released (4 to 8 weeks), while organic residue with a high C:N ratio (greater than 20) decompose slowly and the microbes will tie up soil nitrogen to decompose the residues. Protozoa and nematodes consume other microbes in the soil and release the nitrogen as ammonia, which becomes available to other microorganisms or is absorbed by plant
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Sorry for the delay in replying. Hurt my back setting up a new winter grow room.
Thanks for all the information. I will dig out deeper than three feet next season and follow your instructions on maintaining the correct PH levels in my soil.