HEAT is on in grow room!

Because of this heat wave my grow room temps are approaching 90. I"m thinking about moving drivers to next room. It’s about 15’ from where my lights are located now. I have 3 SF4000’s and just wondering what i would have to get and what to do when i get it! Any help would be appreciated. @dbrn32 and anyone else with this kind of expertise!!!

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I’m not familiar with exact driver or connectors on your light, but all you should need to is extend wiring from wherever you want to put driver to wherever the lights are. Some 18awg 2 conducter rated for 300v or higher should do.

I’m sure a few here have done it, see if anyone can post up the parts they used.

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I would like to put the same connectors on atleast I’m not to sure about tackling a project like this but i have to get the temps down. I’ll get the driver numbers for you tomorrow

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They’re just meanwell drivers. If you intend to take the potentiometer with I would just splice in and extend the original.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SD6GKHM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

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I have considered doing the same thing. I would only need to go a few feet out of each tent and thought it would help. I’m in AZ and it’s always hot here. Ha! Thanks for the info y’all!

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Cc driver is high voltage and usually low current, cv/cc driver usually low voltage and potentially high current. Hlg-240h-c1050 you could wire with 20 awg all day long, but would need high voltage insulation. Hlg-240h-24 you could use automotive wiring on, but would need bigger conductor like probably 16awg.

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Oh I see your point. When I say splice in I usually mean same gauge/insulation level as already used. Obviously only using one of the three wires. Guess I should’ve used this example.


On a 240h-c2100a.

Since I’ve never taken the cover off of my spider farmer I don’t know what’s under that. But one would assume molex connectors, which I always just aim for the larger end.

Molex Lite-Trap connector 104188-0110 rated max 300V AC (RMS)/DC and 9A with 18 AWG wire.18-24 AWG Solid (recommended) or 20-22 AWG Strand Wire.

Figured I’d be fine getting away with 17.

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Lights are off right now so i can’t get in there . I would like to use the same type wire, I guess what i’m getting at is all i wand to do is rig up my new wires unplug the old and plug in the new ones. Of course i would have to buy new wire. I have three SP 4000’s I guess i’ll have to get 2 packages of connectors and x # feet of wire is that correct? @Budz @dbrn32

Ya. But I doubt connectors linked above are compatible with factory connector. There is going to be some level of hardwired to be done, how much depends on what you buy. If I had a fixture in front of me I could probably help more, unfortunately I don’t know exactly how they are wired.

I was saying splice in. My spider farmer tent is awake now. My basic point is that companies use one item for its purpose across all products 90% of the time. It’s just simply cost effective. Just like you know the size of the oil plug based off of manufacturer. They aren’t gonna use a different size for sedan or a 350 super duty. It’s not cost effective. I digress. Safe bet. Follow your wire.



So with the spider farmer design. If you take the potentiometer with the driver when removing from the top. You would only need one per each of the connectors I listed above. Since a half version is, at least what my spider farmer light, what is used to make the connection. So you can easily just extend it. I would always recommend with the same rated cable and connectors of course.

The light in this picture is unaltered by me.

Here I go blowing the point. A sf 4000 is just two daisy chained 2000, basically literally. Minus one potentiometer. Atleast from one’s I’ve seen.


So 1 extra connector plus wire per driver *

So if you were to literally slap two sf2000 together. It’s a 4000. And the connectors I linked through Amazon where the ones recommended by horticulture lighting group. Better than the ones used on the spider farmer lights, still cheap. Bulkier of course. I have no complaints from them obviously.

sorry i didn’t backto you sooner but got tied up. will the connectors that you showed me work on sf lights? @Budz

Yes, they will. Same type sf uses just higher quality than what sf uses. What connects the driver to the sf board is just a half version of what I linked. The ones I linked are for three wire. But can obviously be used for two (color coded). Just follow your lines. I often forget this kind of knowledge isn’t as common as it should be.

One more question what type of wire did you use? I believe i’m going to need quite a bit of it. Thanks for all the info man . I may have to get back with you when i get everything i need. @Budz

I already showed that. See above. Here’s screen shot. Like I said, it is a three wire cord I used even. Was just on hand. Just didn’t use one of the wires.

Which here is what comes out of your driver, see the similarities. Except the 3 and 2. Since one is 2 wire and I “used” a 3 wire, just two.

If you can’t read the wires I wouldn’t recommend doing your own wiring. No offense to anyone (you can learn anything for free online, go learn). It’s just a simple understanding thing. Safety first. Happy growing!

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Yea i’m not to thrilled about tackling this little project. So i think i’ll try to find someone that knows what there doing. That might be hard to do in my area! Thanks for the info ! @Budz

See that’s what I was trying to avoid. You can do this bro. It’s just imperative that you understand the basics. Which are stupid simple. The only reason I hesitate to ask at first is because once you do learn them… It’s almost insulting to think you didn’t. Because it’s sooooo simple… But it’s sooo important. And that’s just as understood. But we can walk you through it for sure. I can tell you exactly what to buy and what little work to do. Or you could spend 2-3 hours and know yourself what, how and why you do it…

Looks like i better do a little more research before i jump huh! @Budz

My entire basis there was how to read a wire…


If you just extend with the exact same wire that’s already being used, with the connectors I linked, you can’t possibly mess up as long as you keep to whatever color system you decide.

Got ya man thanks!! @Budz

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