Greetings to all my fellow stoners on this sunny day. I’m looking for a more effective product that actually works on powdery mildew as any strain with Afghan in it, especially Skunk#1 is overtaken by powdery mildew along the Gulf Coast each summer.
I ran across a product called Mammoth Canncontrol in the November issue of Grow Magazine that claims to prevent and eliminate Powdery Mildew, Botrytis (Grey Mold), Mites, Aphids, White Flies, Thrips, and Fungus Gnats.
This product claims to use natural ingredients. I’m looking for a more effective solution than homemade remedies as I’ve tried them all. Anyone used it?
I haven’t used that one. If you say it works, then I would try it.
@MattyBear suggested to use this one:
Sierra naturals worked well for me, I only had to reapply to areas I missed, but once applied correctly, great product.
@Mark0427 swears by another product blue magic.
I tried EM1 for WPM, and it didn’t seem to work 100%, but it did slow the advancement. Others have had success with it.
Before that I was using peroxide, which worked in the short term, but wpm always came back.
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I had the same issue with peroxide and it only seemed to really work if applied daily which I’m too lazy for. I’m looking for something that really works that the pros use I care not the cost as powdery mildew is eating me up outdoor.
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I have a quart of this, its good stuff, but its Thyme Oil, so it has a strong smell, not bad, just dont wanna drag this into late flower. I like their botanicals, you can mix them together and apply at once ie 217C for spidermites is Rosemary Oil, same issue tho strong but pleasant smell, Italian spices.
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@Pet_de_Chien It seeping into the smoke at the end like Neem oil?
Neem is nasty, tastes as bad as it smells…works awesome however.
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Yeah I know are you saying the thyme and rosemary oil are ending up in the final product like Neem Oil?
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I applied during flowering, and I haven’t noticed any cross smells coming through, but I did do a peroxide wash after harvest.
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Blue Magic looks like it runs about 300 a gallon.
All my searches seem to want to point me to this product called Athena
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In late flower, I’d stick with peroxide and ultra low rh personally. I’d like to be able to answer that definitively, I’ve not used the botanicals beyond early flower, and the smell dissipated pretty quick, and I did not notice any residue. Its a systemic treatment. It mixes with water so it should wash with water, I can try it on some lettuce later today, and see if I can taste it after dry and washed.
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@Covertgrower I got the bottle together just need to make it to the damn post office or ups to drop it off. Yes blue magic seems to be great for wpm. My plant was total covered as I left it to try the blue magic and it worked great. Could see where it was under scope but nothing to the naked eye at all beside leaf damage it did to the leaves. It’s pricey but worked well I believe I did 10 or 15 ml per gallon I used warm water half ro half tap to heat it up to make sure the mix was mixed well
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I would be interested In trying that as well. If more than one product works well, it’s good to know. Even if they work the same. Price points would probably be the deciding factor for some.
When you’re facing an issue, sometimes money doesn’t matter if your plants will be unusable if you don’t treat.
@2GreenThumbs
Had to edit your post as that link isn’t allowed. No worries.
@Mark0427
No worries man, I finished up flowering, and I’m back to seedlings now, but I’ve been treating them too.
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It’s cool, that’s just the one I clicked I guess. I know I need to figure this out before spring as PM ate my lunch this year.
I see many of these products use thyme, rosemary oil etc and some seem to use Citric Acid.
Citric acid is a powerful product I’m familiar with in Wine making, so powerful it will clean copper so I’m hesitant to use it on any Mary Jane but has anyone tried a citric acid product for PM?
I haven’t used it either, but seems like a good safe option diluted properly.
It’s basically changing the PH of the leaves to make it unsuitable for wpm to develop.
I tried the same thing with just baking soda, and it slowed it down, but didn’t prevent it.
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Another thing to look into is the use of a Chitin, Chitosan, Chitosal product, this too is a systemic. And let the plants build a metabolic/immune response? thinkin out load.
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Think out loud please all you want as this crap is costing me serious money
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Insect frass is a cheap organic way to add Chitin to the soil.
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Have you researched it? Almost sounds like Chittlins! It basically changes the plants immune system somehow is that correct? Anything changing the plants structure I would be a bit wary of as I’m new to that
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Not as much to say I more than familiar with its use and that I can do a google-fu on. I was given a sample of a product called Chitosal, but I have not used it. So I can find you a link and you can see what they claim, but what I recall it was about triggering an immune response to molds/fungi/insects and the plants response in making protective enzymes.
But I bet some of the No-till and full on organic guys know a ton more about it especially the inexpensive insect Frass part.
