I started off with home depot lights, a little miracle gro and had good results. I’ve upgraded to (2) mars-hydro 300 (125 true watts) and two 4’ T8s on each end of a 48"x48" tent. Being disabled, it’s hard for me to get around, as well as, afford too much i.e. equipment+utilities. So, easy on me with cheap nutes etc. The picture is of my SK, it was the first to show these signs but, my other plants are following suit!!! When I first noticed the issue, I transplanted to a bigger pot but…it didn’t seem to help too much. I “try” to PH my water but, I just spot-checked and my water-for-soil was 4.5…OOOOPS!!! I check it more often now. My water is a few drops of PHdown and about a 1/8 cup od hydrogen peroxide per gal. I use that frog-farm soil and mix it with some perlite. Heres, my nutes, easy on me…I researched this before and it’s been working…UNTIL. So, to make it easy on me, coupled with my limited space and inability to have several watering cans for each tent (I have a 48"x48" with three 300w LEDs for flowering…also new)…I do “THIS” …researched and tested by a lab…I mix 1tspn of miracle-gro all purpose with 1/2 gallon of water + 1tblsp hodrogen peroxide + 1drop PHdown. This is for CONTINUES FEED to avoid confusing schedules so, I water with plain water and then pour 1/2cup nute-mix per 2gal pot of soil on top of watered soil. It seemed to work. Now, I figured, with the bigger lights for bigger plants, I would transplant to 3 gal pots…Maybe this is my mistake? Maybe the plants don’t “want” three gal pots with the added-extra nutes that go with it? I really could use some help…I’m getting over a gifted-clone that came with mites…I got out of it, four months completely clean but, it was a major set-back…again. I have too much trouble determining over or under nuting…the affected leaves seem to be bottom/middle/top and “seem” to more prevelant in the bigger pots I’ve recently started upgrading to. HELP-AND-THANKS-AND-HELP!!!
@peachfuzz@PurpNGold74@merlin44@Myfriendis410@BigDaddyCain@zparkie2@latewood @PlymouthFarm
Hello there Plymouth and welcome. I’m fairly new to the forum so I’m not sure I can be allot of help. However I can assure you, your at the right place. Copy and paste this ticket, fill it out and it will get you help that much faster. Take some more pics. **Hint, while your pics are loading, don’t try tho post anything else, or they will not load, ** learned that the hard way! I can say you will most definitely have to get your ph in check for starters. You need to check it prior to watering and then check the runoff. A good average in soil is 6.2-6.7 is what I have found. Can’t stress enough on the p. H. It’s where all things begin. If your thinking nute burn, which is wat it resembles, then you may want to do a good flush with a balanced pH water. With the pH off you could have possibly shit down the intake of one particular nute if not more, and increased the intake on another. In my opinion also, I think your probably feeding notes a lil too often. I have encountered similar problems using the MG All purp. Especially it your using the mfr. Mix ratio. I got away from it as was recommended here. Anyways I’ma try to get some way more experienced people to take a look. Don’t worry! One of these great people will get you fixed up, or get you to someone who can
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I would think your plant is in lockout from the low ph runoff, if it’s that low after being flushed through your happy frog soil and the ph Is that low it will definitely cause your plant to lockout, you mentioned your situation and I do truly understand not you gotta stop fessing the miracle grow in my opinion. It has too much “time release” and likes to stack up in soil and then boom release from my understanding. Plus it’s owned or partnered with Monsanto which everyone knows is pure money making corporate evil.
I would just stick to water and maybe if possible get a bottle of bloom nutrients from fox farm or even if possible the veg and bloom. Then start your feeding process from there until then just stick with regular PH’D WATER until your runoff comes into a normal range again. Hope this helps!!
Thanks everyone…I’m not using a time release MG and, I’m aware of the controversy, although it may not be working for “me” due to “my” soil, lights, environment etc. but, it seemed to be working okay until I got bigger lights (they’re not too close) and put them in bigger pots…because I’m growing plants a foot higher than before (before was a foot tall…now about two-feet when flowering. I’m wondering if I really messed things up by not checking my PH and then, confirmed I was lowering it WAY too much. I check it everytime…6.5. As far as flowering, I did the same recipe with MG bloom and, that was also “working” okay but…I am now experimenting with canna-flores, I won’t get into what I’m doing “yet” because I have a definitive side-by-side test going but, it seems to be working muc better for me then before. I’m not having too many issues in flowering (at the moment lol). Can someone give me the best and easiest way to test run-off? …I have a PH meter, strips and a test-vile (doesn’t work well with cloudyness) …any tips would help. For starters, I’ll give them all PHd water only…thoughts about pots being too big? The plants are 18" high with five or so tops? THANKS EVERYONE
You can order a ppm meter from amazon but that will only give you numbers referring to your electric conductivity or the metals leaching from soil and nutrients being applied. You will have to get a chart referring to how much ppms you should be feeding at that stage in flower or what week of flower you’re in. Idk if MG will have this for there nutrients but you could possibly reference fox Farms or another nutrient company I guess, I wouldn’t reccomend it though. For now just water with ph water or you can even flush it…
Hi @PlymouthFarm. Not sure ive seen you around so welcome to ILGM.
Now to the issues at hand. Excellent work so far. I believe the plant signs are trying to tell you that she is experiencing an N toxicity. MG is a very Nitrogen heavy fert. The fact that u uppotted to fresh Fox Farms Ocean Forest (a very well put together albeit pretty nutrient “hot” in itself) then you possibly upped the feed ratio yourself. Resulting in too much accessible Nitrogen for ur plant.
For future references FFOF soil is good for ~6 weeks. No feed needed when using in the vegetative growth phase for at least a month. Just properly pH’d water.
If ur gonna be growing ur own greens, i HIGHLY recommend u invest in a solid pH pen (apera and bluelab make great ones, please dont cheap out on a worthless $12 pen here. I spent $40 a year ago, DIFFERENCE MAKER) and a cheap tds pen (u can get the $12 of this). Strips… ‘work’ but not with the accuracy that we need. Tds meter helps monitor how heavily you’re feeding them/the rates they are eating what u fed. THESE TWO TOOLS WILL CHANGE UR GROW EXPECTATIONS
Peroxide in the nutrient mix! Where in the heck did you get this idea. Peroxide will DESTROY your microbe herd. Now with the spider mites… i can understand. But id only add it to pure water and use inbetween feeds. Plus itd be more beneficial to spray those suckers. But in your nutrient mix? Nah. Seems like a invitation to failure. Nix that.
Nutrient mix! MG CAN GROW WEED. We bash it often because as u can see now, it isnt cannabis nor novice (let alone beginner) friendly. One mistake can nuke ur ladies to Hades. Also it doesnt have the proper NPK values for the different stages of growth in weed. I use 5-1-1 fish emul in veg, and 0-10-10 emul in bloom. Not saying its the best. But thats an example of the difference needed. Also look into a calmag supplement. When you flip to flower i can GUARANTEE without one, ull see more deficiencies
Sorry for the info overload. But needed to be said if u need to poke me back over or anyone. Tag em. Like @PlymouthFarm best of luck. And dont overworry. Its not really a big issue unless uve flipped light timers to 12/12 already
All that i said. Forgot this part. How to fix the . Watering with straight water or flush it if it keeps getting worse. But do not add more mg to it at the moment
Thank you and, I really think you nailed it…it really makes sense, as far as peroxide…a couple of quick notes, I’m using MG so, I don’t need to be as concerned about “good microbes” being saves as peroxide destroys the bad ones too. I was given this tip from a grower when I had an aphid issue years ago…he talked about oxygenating the roots and did explain it would destroy microbes. I’ve never seen aphids again. I’m not currently treating for mites…they showed up and wrecked my flowering tent but, I got them in time…treatments and one dose of a doktor doom bomb…that was that. I’m going to water with PHd water for a bit…I’ve only waited a couple weeks before adding nutes. Maybe I’ll back off peroxide when using fresh soil to help the microbes too. Thank you!!!
yea i was thinking the same thing when i heard peroxide in the feedings. out of all the 1000s of hours of grow research it is the first i heard of this.
Which Fox Farms soil are you using? It looks like you kind of got the naming mixed together there.
If you are using Fox Farms Ocean Forest(high nutrient level), adding the Miracle Grow to it isn’t really a good idea until you are well into flowering. You should be able to get away with just plain water, properly pH balanced.
If you are using Fox Farms Happy Frog (medium nutrient level) you might just need to reduce significantly how much Miracle Grow you are giving it. It might also be fine with just plain water right now. A PPM/TDS meter in addition to a pH meter really helps tell you what is going on.
Here are some runoff PPM guidelines for soil grows. These are just guidelines and do not need to be followed verbatim. Every grow and every plant may have different needs.
He’s right that MG can do the job. What MG is not, is PH buffered for Cannabis. This means that you will inevitably be chasing deficiencies and lockouts throughout the grow…unless you are experienced enough to manage it. I could do it but I’ve been growing for a long time.
Another issue with petroleum based fertilizers is they tend to produce a harsh tasting finished product. It can be amazingly throat destroying haha. So precautions need to be taken.
Peroxide in the amounts used, with fertilizers added, did nothing. I would guess the peroxide was dissipated 10 seconds after going into your nutrient mix.
Watering daily in soil is a great way to kill your plant from root rot FYI. Water to runoff every time.
Using FFOF (as pointed out) you need no nutrients for at least 6 weeks and likely longer.
Getting your plants into the appropriate sized pot will help too. You should be in a 5 or 7 gallon IMO.
@PlymouthFarm
I can second all the MG STATEMENTS Plymouth, and do so from first hand. It can grow weed, but it’s highly unfriendly tho the grower and the weed. Especially to a newbie like me. I took all I was told with an open mind and an in check ego and before you know it. After nute burn then mites I have another dilemma. My two in a 5x4x8 are climbing on top of each other they’ve gotten so big so quick. I’m outta room, will be 3mts in one week, I’m still trying to establish 100 and 10 that they’re both female and flip, if I don’t, idk what the hell I’m gonna do, lol.
Isn’t this an awesome forum.
The Apera pH that P.N.G suggested is worth way more than it’s retail$ by the way. You can get cheaper, but your getting had. Good Luck Sir
Yes, it’s the happy-frog…plus, I add a little peroxide which does kill microbes too, …I think I’ll flush and try blending in about half of what I was doing after a couple weeks…it’s such a simple method and, it worked well under weaker lights. I’m not having too many issues in flowering and am experimenting with canna-flores nutes for flowering…so far, so good. It seems that maybe the stronger lights made their appetites different…I’ve had a year of this working…all I’ve done different is, up-potting and more nutes to make up for bigger-pots… I think everyone’s helped me find my way…seems promising. I do have a TDS meter and am going to give that a go! THANK YOU!
More intense lights would increase the amount of nutes. Thus ud see an N deficiency instead of toxicity. Forgot to ask. What stage are u in currently? And how far? Also do u know the npk ratio of the MG all purpose and the cannaflores?
When I first noticed the issue, I transplanted to a bigger pot but…it didn’t seem to help too much. I “try” to PH my water but, I just spot-checked and my water-for-soil was 4.5…OOOOPS!!! I check it more often now. My water is a few drops of PHdown and about a 1/8 cup od hydrogen peroxide per gal. I use that frog-farm soil and mix it with some perlite. Heres, my nutes, easy on me…I researched this before and it’s been working…UNTIL. So, to make it easy on me, coupled with my limited space and inability to have several watering cans for each tent (I have a 48"x48" with three 300w LEDs for flowering…also new)…I do “THIS” …researched and tested by a lab…I mix 1tspn of miracle-gro all purpose with 1/2 gallon of water + 1tblsp hodrogen peroxide + 1drop PHdown. This is for CONTINUES FEED to avoid confusing schedules so, I water with plain water and then pour 1/2cup nute-mix per 2gal pot of soil on top of watered soil. It seemed to work. Now, I figured, with the bigger lights for bigger plants, I would transplant to 3 gal pots…Maybe this is my mistake? Maybe the plants don’t “want” three gal pots with the added-extra nutes that go with it? I really could use some help…I’m getting over a gifted-clone that came with mites…I got out of it, four months completely clean but, it was a major set-back…again. I have too much trouble determining over or under nuting…the affected leaves seem to be bottom/middle/top and “seem” to more prevelant in the bigger pots I’ve recently started upgrading to. HELP-AND-THANKS-AND-HELP!!! 
if u need to poke me back over or anyone. Tag em. Like 
. Watering with straight water or flush it if it keeps getting worse. But do not add more mg to it at the moment