Fun and Games on the Central Coast

Gonna depend on the plastic used. Got to have a fairly high rate of thermal conductivity to work well.

This is kinda in my wheelhouse as I worked with cryogenic gasses in Aerospace as an engineer.

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Sweet yet deninatley a heavy duty hose is gonna transfer the temp much slower but they make those super cheap hoses that feel like a toy that would have to work…slow…but I would work and if your just trying to go a few degrees I’d have to put my hands in the fire and try that myself

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I put this on GDy’s thread but ill put it her too.

this is the way im doing mine.

I purchased 4 of these

edit: unauthorized link (You can describe where you got it but no links please)

It uses 2 pumps and only has h20 going through any pipe.

the pump that pumps the cold water through the coils will have a manifold like this but plastic.
image

@Grandaddy013, u don’t have to stay at 3/4 inch, if u go down in size and then up it just slows the flow.

I wouldn’t worry about copper in the water, though about it some more, all that will happen is it will form a fine oxidation coating then stop, remember some drinking water is almost as bad.

if your worried about the copper all u have to do is put a bit in the rez leave it a week or two and have a look at it, if its not blue and cakey your allright

id make those coils but its cheaper then buying it in raw copper and its better.

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there is one more thing, remember the chillers capacity is still the chillers capacity.

like a chiller designed to chill 100 gallons cannot be split and hope to chill 300 gallons it would be less like 90 gallons because u are losing heat through all the hoses and 2 pumps.

this all depends on how hot the ambient the air temps are and how efficient your chiller is.

but if you put a chiller that is designed to chill 100 gallons and have it set up to do 300 its going to work too hard, your temps wont come down properly and your machine will eventually fail.

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Right. I have a separate rez so it would only pump water. Same scenario as what you have. Only difference, instead of an easy, I used a 12gal tote. I’m only chilling 12 gallons. My chiller is a 1/4hp designed to chill 100gal. It will be kicked back on easy street. I’ve ALMOST decided on 3/4HVAC tubing. It’s a little cheaper, but I think the additional surface area will assist in cooling.

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remember, your not only cooling 12 gallons, you have to add on all the systems you are coolin too :smirk:

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That’s the ‘Heat load’. You are absolutely right and have to account for heat generated by submersible pumps (inline are cooler), how well insulated your reservoir volume is and how much radiation is hitting it.

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You are correct, BUT in my feeble mind, the chiller only has to cool 12gal. I can’t explain it right now, I’m stoooned.

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I think it also matters as to how much you have to lower the temperature.

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Yowzah! And I’m pretty baked too haha. (Firestone Double Barrel Ale and, bong rips of kief with the wife)

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I’m pretty stoned too,

@Myfriendis410, heat load that’s it… yeah, more you insulate your precious ‘cold’ water the better, ill be insulating the hoses. :slightly_smiling_face:

snake was very close to biting one of our dogs out west, so you don’t hear this very often in Australia, were getting our gun licenses… lock and load………………… (with a 22 magnum) :laughing:

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btw I go shooting but always with my mates guns…

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Yea when the water runs to the system they are being acted on by the lights above them the air around them and all… how about wrapping your tubes some insulation and duct tape the shit out of it so no fiberglass comes out …or use… an old cooler for that matter …ahhhhhh I just came up with a good one …an old igloo cooler cut whole in tope and grow in it or use as res or whatever… your welcome :sunglasses::muscle:…lol also that foam hvac insulation that goes around up to 1"pipe anywhere the pipe is exposed to or from the unit and it will have to stay cold only cool would come out from the net pots no?..
Now I’m stoned I come up with funny but good ideas when I’m naked…and I’m baked…you stupid phone …naked yes I’m naked and baked …lmfaooo…I’m not naked lol that’s auto correct at its finest I just wont change that one and save edit

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AMD they got a drain!!

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Wifey just came up with another use for the igloo cooler. Get one that rolls and use it to roll in and outside depending on weather.

boommind blown I’ll smoke to that

But you dont wanna go in and out brotha ull bring things undesired inside with you if your in dwc hydro like these guys u ain’t moving nothing around that’s a stationary gig and they usually scrog as well… I have seen @ThcinKC has individual scrogs per plant and there mobile but one of the only I’ve seen and hes a living soil guy

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All this coil talk is designed to lengthen the life of the chiller? Yes? Or am I missing the point?

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Like I said my chiller has made it through 5 grows and never missed a beat.

I’m confident I could pull it off the shelf right now and it would work perfect and I never had a filter or anything in it to protect what went through it.

Seems like allot of extra work to try and lengthen the life of something that is already gonna be around awhile anyways.

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If you wanna save money on a chiller…

Then go buy a small fridge like this off of Craigs list for $50

Midea WHS-65LB1 Compact Single Reversible Door Refrigerator, 1.6 Cubic Feet(0.045 Cubic Meter), Black

Drill two small holes in the top, run an air stone line through one hole and the power cable through another hole (seal around the holes so cold air doesn’t escape), and put your air pump inside the fridge.

That way your air pump is pumping nothing but cold air straight into the reservoir effectively dropping the temperatures of the water.

If your a DIY guy then this saves you allot more money than buying a chiller, and you can run air stones to multiple buckets from the air pump in the fridge.

I personally wouldn’t spend all the money of the chiller just to coil up lines and reduce its efficiency…that’s just my take on things

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