I have a question on how too feed your plants the fox farms bottled nutrients.
I can’t find it explained simply enough on YouTube on any videos and I’m not sure if I over feed all my plants I’m pretty sure I did but so far I’m not seeing any signs of it
Ok for example the bottle and everyone says 10-15ml per gallon but if you’re growing in a 5gallon fabric container I’ve noticed rarely do you ever need to pour an entire gallon in at any given time so now if you wanted to measure with a half a gallon would you then only do 5ml per half gallon but still I’m growing autos rn from humbolt genetics OG kush in 5gallon pots and they don’t even take half a gallon so far so if you wanted to cut it in half again and do half of the half a gallon that’s like 4 cups so do you now put 3ml per 4cups and feed that to each plant pot individual. I think I should of done it that way. Instead I ended up feeding them two days back to back the first time I did 10 ml per gallon and spread it through all plants but I felt that was un even the next day they all were relatively healthy but I noticed a lot of neon yellowish color and figured I had a Nitrogen deficiency from not feeding properly so I feed them all again the next day this time I took a Pyrex glass filled 4cups and put 15ml for each and feed that then realized after watching videos that may be too much but I checked on them and they all still look pretty good could someone please explain the correct way I should be feeding them THANKS!!
All the amounts on the bottles are per gallon. Sorry if this seems basic, but you do put all the different nutrients in the same gallon of water. That question is asked sometimes. Once you mix up a gallon of nutrient solution it’s good for a week or so. Just use what you need and save the rest for the next feeding. There’s no need to ever make less than a gallon at a time.
Fox Farms and all nutrient companies have feed schedules for their nutrients. I’ll go find one for you and upload it here.
I’m assuming that’s soil, not coco coir in your pots. Everything you need to know is in this chart. Just convert tsp to ml if you need to (a feed chart in tsp seems weird to me). I think it said feed every other watering. So you feed, give plain water, feed, plain water, repeat. For autos you’ll jump to week five whenever they start showing pistils. If you have any questions about anything I’m sure someone on here will be able to help you out. Welcome to the forum btw.
Also, do you know about pH and ppm/EC for your nutrient solution? If not, you’ll need to get a pH meter, a TDS meter, some pH up and down and do some reading asap.
Feed as necessary to maintain a runoff PPM of ~1,000.
Depending on where you are in the growth cycle no, come late veg and early flower you should be looking at a gallon min to fully water your plant. Takes 1.5 gal for me in a 5 gal using FFOF and 20% perlite. If you are getting runoff with less then a gallon of water you are pouring too quickly. Runoff should come from the center of a cloth pot vs the sides or edges of the bottom. 3 suggestions, 1) till the top 2.5 inches of the soil with a fork prior to watering this will break up the topsoil allowing the water to pull down more oxygen for roots and break up the tunnels that form in the soil. These tunnels can divert water to the side of the pot vs allowing it to be soaked up by the soil. This is crutial to fully watering the soil. 2) mid veg, begin watering until you get 20% runoff. (20% of a gallon is 3 cups) 3) if you are not already doing so keep record of both the ph and tds of input and runoff. This info can be very useful to have. Not only can it, tell you when to feed (after runoff tds dips below 1000) but also help indicate if lockout is occuring or immenent based on how or low the ph figures trend.
To better answer your questions regarding feeding mix. I need to know a few things. 1) what kind of medium are you growing in 2) how old your plants are. And which FF nutes are you using, just trio, or trio and pk boosters, or full dirty dozen lineup.
From the pictures I see no deficiency of any kind. They look very healthy. The newest growth coming from the tops of main stem and branches will be lighter in green then older growth, dimming over time.
Welcome to ILGM! 1 last tip. To get any individuals attn simply tag them like this, @Docnraq in any thread and the system will alert them to you comment/question.
Hey thanks for all the advice and help I’m Growing in Foxfarms Happyfrog/Ocean forest I put half and half in each 5 gallon pot. They were planted oct 9th so only a little over a month old,I’m using Grow big and Tiger bloom I also have cal/mag I do ph the water I have bluelap ph pen
It was part of the dark cycle but I turned on the lights just now to check em out and just like before I turned them off some aren’t looking good I don’t know if I put too many nutrients in the prior feeding
Thanks for the help and advice I do know what ph is and I ph the water but I don’t know what EC is and Don’t have a Tds meter yet or know what it is yet lol ima go find out now thanks
Not to confuse anyone but I understood the FF to read as mix per Gallon of water, not x5 for a 5 gallon pot of soil.
Early stages (germination) water requirement is low, more moisture from the air and the soil provides most of the nutes so go easy on adding extra, some agree to use 1/2 to 1/4 the recommended amount.
Later (veg) more water is needed and soil nutes get depleated so additional FF fertilizer may be required.
Learn to read the leaf’s they tell what’s happening - it’s tricky to decode so good luck !
Many plants go limpy before and during lights out. This is very common. USUALLY they come back to life so to speak right before lights on but sometimes it can take em 30 mins to “wake up” after lights on. They seem fine.
Tds and ec are representations of the same information. TDS=total dissolved solids & EC= electrical conductivity. A liquids ec is determined by the parts per million total dissolved solids it contains. Some growers prefer EC others TDS, myself, I am team TDS. That being said you MUST get a tds meter. Ive been using this model for almost two years and it works great.
TDS Meter Digital Water Tester, Lxuemlu Professional 3-in-1 TDS, Temperature and EC Meter with Carrying Case, 0-9999ppm, Ideal ppm Meter for Drinking Water, Aquariums and More https://a.co/d/cLlT0LD
The tds tells you the amount nutrient in feeding solution and runoff liquid. Its important to track the in and out of feed and water. What kind of water are you using to water and feed your plants? Tap, RO, distilled, well, rain, or fishtank?
If using RO or distilled you will need to ad calmag ir epsom salt to your water. Especially on water only days.
This is correct. The FF feeding schedule above is by the gallon, this is an avg feed for my plants. In RO water.
I recommend getting the Big Bloom it has much in it that your plants will need. Its why the liquid FF nutes are often reffered to as the liquid trio.
Curious about your light, can you tell me what light your using, how far is it from your canopy and at what power level are you running it?
Lastly, are you growing photos or auto?
@Docnraq has you covered on TDS/EC. Put simply for our purposes it’s a measure of how strong your nutrient solution is. Whichever one you use you’ll have to adjust the strength to suit whatever stage of growing you’re at. There’s a lot of information to take in and process when you start growing. You’ll think you’ve got all the info then you’ll see a term you’ve never heard of. After working with all of it through a successful grow you’ll have a good enough handle on things.
So I’m on my first grow and I decided to use a few different soils n nutes to see what works best for me. Instead of listing everything I’ll just cut to the chase. I’m using ff dirty dozen on my 2 made of honors and they are looking nice n frosty but got a little nuts burn on my 4th week of flower. I’ve flushed and am now cutting it down to half of what the schedule says. Be careful they run high and easily burn your gals.
I’m ditching ff nutes all together on my next run. Takes way to much time, big mess, and hard to pH water back up after nutes mixed in. I’ve been through allot of pH up.
My zkittlzz in the sohum soil is just add water till the flowering cycle then I top dress and use a tea as easy as that. Greengro nature’s brix, bloom, flower finisher, and their green amino with sohum soil is going to be my next all organic grow. Very easy , very efficient, very nice outcome, all natural is better for the gals and us! Will rival any medical grade out there. But anyway here’s a few shots of what I got halfway through flower.
Define alot… I bought a gallon a year ago and still half a lil over half gallon.
I hear Jacks 321 is good. And easy. Im giving it a try in my fresh batch of plants.
Allot meaning I’m not even through my first grow and I’ve had to get a second bottle. Ff dirty dozen lowers pH to like 4 point something and it’s not just a few drops to get it back to 6.5-ish. it takes like 4-5 full eye droplets things that come with the kits full to bring it back up. I find the ff dirty dozen to be just a big pain in the tail. Don’t get me wrong if you get it dialed in correctly it produces some nice stuff but the problem is it just takes to much.
I hear good things about Jack’s 123 as well but when I looked it up it,I found it to be more lined for like hydro.
But I found sohum living soil top notch. Then just throw a tablespoon of flower finisher on top of soil and drench it down with a tea made of one tablespoon of green amino and 1 tablespoon of nature’s brix mixed in 5 gallon , easy to pH to 6.5 ish and that’s it. Simple! Pure organic which is better anyway. No flushing needed, even before harvest! Can’t go wrong with greengro lands pride . I found a package said auto package but has all the stuff that I need for my photos at like a little over a 100. Cones with a book and all in one sample of myco ( however it’s spelled lol). 2nd picture from bottom is the right side of tent with 2 zkittlez with sohum soil and started adding the lands pride a few weeks to late so there’s a little bit of yellowing but still for a first grow is got me sold . I’m going that for my next full tent grow of snowcaine.
Light: MedicGrow (fold 8), 20" from top of canopy, 80% (its a strong light), photos.
It does seem like alot of coco users like Jacks. Something about being able to feed at every watering. Ill be using it for the first time very soon, Ill be posting about my experience.
I only know of one or two others on the boards here who use the full line up (Dirty Dozen) seems like over kill to me. I only use the liquid trio and the soluble pk booster trio as far as the FF line goes. Couple other additives mycos and azos a tea every 4 weeks, some molasses silica and calmag+epsom. In RO water usually gets down to 5ph and takes abtsp or so ph up to bring up to 6.8.
I can see why, using the whole line up, you are dissatissfied. Ive seen a ton of happy organic growers. Im interseted in trying but the cost is kinda steep initially so I havent pulled the trigger on it. Its been cool using FF though, kinda a bucket list thing from back when growing was illegal.
Anyone ever use Cultured Biologix nutrients?