First time ww feminized

Hello helpful folks. Marshydro 2x4x6 tent. Marshydro TSL 2000 at running at 25% intensity, 20 inches above the canopy, 18/4. These White Widow Feminized babies from ILGM hatched 2 weeks ago. I thought they were in vegetation stage and gave them first feeding from the FF Trio Chart at 50%, then later learned they enter vegetation when leaflets at 5-7 points, oppps. I water them in 0.00ppm water thats been ph’d to about 6.5 (though I’m using a Vivosun PH meter). After reading about how inaccurate they are, I want to get an Apera soon. Soil is FFHF mixed with a third of perlite. I haven’t tested run off ph as i don’t soak them that much. I have controllers for humidity set at 65% RH and triggers reptile fogger if falls below 4%, anything above 4% of the set values triggers the 4" vivosun inline fan above. Also have a temperature switch with cooling hooked to fans, and heater not to be in use yet, temp set at 70F. My question is, do I need to put the lights closer, and do they look like healthy 2-week-old seedlings? Any advice would be gold. I plan on reducing RH by 5% each week once they enter vegetation phase. Thanks all




Can’t get a Ph on water with no impurities. Nothing there for the meter to read.
0.00 PPM water is fine to use as is. If anything is added, like nutes, only then need to adjust to 6.5-6.8 for soil.

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Yes they do. :white_check_mark: :grin:

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Like stated; no need to PH pure water.

NO NUTES until the plants ask for it: HF has everything for the plant and adding too many salts will only slow the plants down.

Plants are stretching a bit so would recommend lowering lights without reducing your footprint too much, or turn lights up. Or both.

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I’m on my first grow to buy on 4th week of veg for fem zkittlzz and just started using nutes a little over a week ago. Most soil has everything it needs for a few weeks . I use sohum soil for my zkittlzz and fox farm ocean for my made of honors that are in their first week of veg. I use distilled water for watering and feeding but have to pH up after adding the nutes. It usually drops to 4.5 ish after adding the fox farm dirty dozen and following the soil feeding suggested schedule. I use a cheap pH/tds meter I got from Amazon for like 35 bucks that has been accurate for me so far. I also compare it to the pH liquid tester for accuracy. Is fine . Lmk and I will send you a link if interested .
I plan on vegging my girls for another 3-4 weeks while letting my made of honors catch up before flipping to flower mode.
Your seedlings look happy and healthy to me and soon ready to transplant to a bigger home. Wether it be 1 gallon and then again 5 gallon like I and allot of other do or whatever you decide to do. I also recommend getting some mykos ( mycorrhizal inoculant to sprinkle along roots , new made hole, and on top of soil to water in when transplanting to new home. :+1:
My plants started off a little slow and stretched like yours to. I also made the mistake of misting daily instead of moistening soil and waiting till dry to moisten again as you can see if you visit my topic and read from beginning.( First ever grow and kit) not a whole lot of reading there.
The couple plants that I did let dry before watering again is doing significantly better than the others. But here is a shot of where I’m at now but started similar to yours.




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Looking good

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Only issue using 0 ppm water is that it is not PH stable so when you pour it into your soil, the medium will change the PH of your water to whatever the mediums ph is. If you add calmag to 0ppm water to a tds of at least 300 it then becomes ph stable so instead of the medium adjusting the ph of your water, your water will adjust the mediums ph.

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I personally set my inlines to come on at 86 temp and 84 rh . I’m also running co2 though so can handle more heat and I try keeping my humidifier pumping in the 70s for humidity. But that’s just me and the happy medium I found from allot of reading , research, and of course I get a ton of great knowledge from more experienced growers in this forum. I found this place to be a freaking blessing that took a ton of stress and weight off my shoulders. Even if it’s just having people say your on track is a great help and stress relief rather than trying on your own. Or if not on track they suggest and aid in getting you back on it.

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Toss that POS away. PH pen is the second most important piece of growing equipment. I recommend an apera ph20 or better. Yeah ots gonna be like 70 or more dollars but its worth its weight x2 in gold and platinum.

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This is what I got is on sale for 40. Normally is like 55. This has got me by well so far at least judging by m plants.
But if you could spare more for an even better one than I’d go with what Doc mentioned above.

If you calibrate often, then it’ll steer you relatively true. The older it gets (+1 month), the more frequently you’ll need to calibrate and the less certain you’ll be about feeding.

It will always ballpark the TDS/PPMs fine - the pH is going to be what it doesn’t read right quite probably.

Fortunately it’s been on point so far. I haven’t had to calibrate and I use the pH test indicator to compare to for accuracy. Has been right on point so far and haven’t had to calibrate yet. It’s been nearly 2 months of use with my plants and testing my friends water from tap, pool, and spa that aligns with their test strips. I can’t say anything bad about it yet. So far so :+1: . If that changes will say so but I’m good with mine.
Rather pay 50 for this then hundreds for a bluelab that I hear has the same issues.

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I calibrated my Bluelab 3 years ago and it hasn’t drifted a bit.

Checking calibration with 7.0 Reference Solution is the easiest and most accurate. Always store in storage solution or 4.01 calibration solution. Never let the glass bulb dry out and never store in anything but storage/calibration solution.

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I also use Bluelab, they work great, no complaints.

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For hundreds of dollars they better. They are about half the price of a new kickass light. :joy: I know pH is important but damn. I get it though there may be a time where mine stops working good and I may upgrade but I’m happy with my 50 dollar one till then.
And as far as what I hear as complaints is in the reviews. I searched through a ton of of reviews for several different pens and they ALL seem to have good and bad reviews. There’s not one that did have straight good reviews across the board. I know sometimes ya gotta take reviews with a little salt but for allot of us just starting out we are already broke from the tent and light we got. Heck I know after my 5x5 ac infinity with t-6 inline, growers choice roi-e720 led and master controller, co2 regulator, controllers, and all that I was nearly 3 times the budget that I originally planned of around 1k. Most of us don’t have an extra 4-500 bucks for a bluelab by the time we get our kits and surely not for something we don’t know for sure about . Is why I went with my 50 dollar one, if it didn’t work 50 dollar isn’t near the loss as 500. :joy:

That’s some good info to know if ever my cheapy does crap out and or I do have the extra hundreds to spare for one. Didn’t know it comes with a solution to keep in.

Funny thing is I don’t even use mine much since I switch to organic now they mostly sit in a drawer :joy:

This is what I have says 200 on Amazon

Nothing wrong with your meter if it gets the job down

Nothing wrong with your meter if it gets the job down.

Amen to that!
I don’t want anyone to get me wrong here , I’m not trying to knock anything especially that I haven’t had experience with personally. Simply just giving a much cheaper alternative that has worked for me to anyone who may not have the luxury of spending that much at this point. If someone has the 200 or even a thousand then more power to them. I just know I wasn’t willing to risk it after the reviews I read at first even if I did have the money. But that’s just me.
But I’m glad to see that there are some that stands behind the bluelab in the case that mine does crap out and I have the money for an upgrade. I certainly trust the folk I meet in here that use it for the same purpose over that in the Amazon reviews.

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I think a lot of the issues with ‘cheaper’ PH meters is the lack of instruction on storage. When I got my first Apera I had no idea and stored in R/O water: bad juju. It wasn’t until I got my Bluelab that I was finally exposed to the correct storage and maintenance plan, which has obviously worked.

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