First time grower seeking advice - Please assist

Hi All,
I am a newbie with my first grow. I am at late flowering stage on two plants. Suddenly started seeing these leaves appear lately at the middle and topof the plants. Both plant #1 and plant #2 have had the identical feeding / watering regime, but are TWO weeks apart in their cycle.

What strain: Norther Lights - ILGM
Method: Organic soil, 
Vessels: Grow bags 7 gal.
PH of Water 6.5, Solution, runoff (NOT Applicable)
PPM/TDS or EC of nutrient solution:  Followed ILGM Feed regime using ILGM pack. 
Location PLANTED in Indoor Tent 3' x 4'  x 6'
Light system  LED Full light spectrum
Temps; Day, 21 / 23C  Night 17.5 / 19C
Humidity; Day, 55 / 75% Night 65 / 86%
Ventilation system; Yes, Size \ more than adequate, so runs 15 minutes ON & 15 mins OFF 24/7
AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier: NA
Co2; Yes, Used Bicarb/Vinegar bomb after booster feeds for 4 hours.

Give us a photo of the entire plant.
And Welcome @Andreas to a great forum. You will like all the great folks here.

Just fyi … you should probably try to get the humidity down some. 75 to 86% will possibly lead to bud rot.

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Yeah; picture of the whole plant in white light would be good. Early leaves do get scruffy and fall off: that’s part of the life cycle.

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So you are using the nutrient line from ILGM?
If so I think it is not organic so you will want to monitor your soil Ph either from run off or doing a slurry test or using a soil Ph meter.
If those nutrients are salt based (anyone please correct me if I’m wrong but I think they are man made and not nature made so to speak) you’ll also need to flush at times.
Pic of entire plant will help. The first leaf shows brown spots which look like a calcium issue and that is either from a PH issue (probably low) or a deficiency or depending on your lights (post your model of light) they can cause the plant to use more calcium than other lights.
Both leaves look like they are also hungry for Nitrogen. Again if you are in late flower this is normal and as time goes will affect more leaves and is natural in the life/death cycle.

You’ll want to get your temps and humidity in the proper ratios. Don’t have a VPD chart with Celsius but here is one to reference

Welcome to forum and good luck with the harvest

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There was at 1 time a line that was made and one that was not but you are correct

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I have adjusted the airflow and fan extraction to keep the humidity between 51 and 75%

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At this point in flower you’re going to want to drop you rh a lot. 35-40% rh

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Thank you @skydiver, those charts are very useful.
After seeing the latest reply post, I have adjusted the environment controller to maintain airflow and humidity between 40 and 50%, although I am not sure the tech will be able to reduce the RH as low as 35%… time will tell. The Temperature should remain roughly in the same range as before if the tech does the job correctly.

The run off PH in the under bowl measures at 6.5 PH and the soil PH measures at 5.5 on plant #1 and 6.0 on plant #2.

Day, 21 / 23C Night 17.5 / 19C
Day, 69.8 / 73.4F Night 63.5 / 66.2F

The LED lamps are from Bozily… I hv two running @300 watts each for 18 hours, one per plant.
See the model details in the attached image.

I dont think they look too bad at all.
Considering you are vastly under powered on light you have managed two plants that are producing well.
Perhaps someone could help with some defoliating advice to get some light penetration.
Those lights pull 65 actual watts from the wall so in reality you have 130 watts total.
Better light will produce plants with less stretch and denser flowers.
As plants near the end of life they start losing leaves naturally. If your symptoms are just on random leaves at this point you probably do not need to worry.
I think this is your lights…Sold under the name Bozily and Relassy

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It’s important that when lights out the RH is down around 40% and when lights on it’s around 50% based on your temps you posted.
That’s the trick is having humidity within range based on temps and as day is higher so should be the humidity and lights out the low number. As your in flower this lower RH at night is pretty important to reduce the chance of any molds forming etc.

And as spiney said above some inner defoliation will help with air flow and minimizing leaf to leaf contact. Those small buds / branches in the lower and inside part of the plant aren’t receiving much light and will be very small and they are also demanding resources that if thinned out the energy would be redirected to the upper bigger buds.

The plants do look good and as far as those leaves I wouldn’t be too worried as that’s normal.

When you again look into upgrading your lights for bigger yields etc there are some great choices with many topics here covering different models of quality lights for better yields etc.

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Thank you both, @Spiney_norman and @Skydiver for your detailed note and tips. At this late stage it looks like the defoliation route is the best move as I hv adjusted my environmental setup to get me as close to getting the lower RH at night as best as possible. Hopefully tonight the kidz will be in a more conducive environment that will promote growth.

I am now going to swot up on defoiliating and the better lamps. Your assistance is very much appreciated. Thanx.

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@Andreas I notice the light is at an angle on the right side of the photo. How close is the light to the top cola as it looks very close. If so, this can ruin the THC content if my memory serves me correctly.

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Your getting some great advice from the guys here :+1:.
On the defoliation aspect there are many theories out there so be sure to do some research/ reading. It depends what week of flower you are in and how long your strain is meant to flower for before you want to cut it to hard some say…
That being said lollipoping and removing a good chunk of the fan leafs is ideal, buds need direct light to grow/finish.
This will help with your humidity but worst case you can run a dehumidifier, running a controller is ideal with it but not always necessary

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Thank you @MrPeat and @Nicky I hv made the adjustments, trimmed some of the fan leaves and removed some of the new lower flowers. I also adjusted the feed at the last feed to add in some elements that may hv been missing causing the brown spots. (See the image). The kidz seem to hv settled down now, no more spotty leaves, had a sudden burst of new flowers on the underside branches which I hv now removed. The temps are much the same with RH staying between 49% and 56% over the last 24 hours.
I am planning on doing a 4 hour CO2 bomb after watering today, so suspect humidity will rise a bit during the 4 hour no fans still air period.
Thank you all for the helpful and encouraging advice. Robert Bergman was correct in his assertions that ILGM has a great forum community. :+1::blush::+1:

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Here is the image for the last post… it did not load for some reason.

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Hmm
Unfortunately that’s not along the general agreed appon ratio for cannabis in terms of NPK.
At 15-3-25 it woild be better if it was 3-15-25.
You only need a bit of nitrogen (first number) and not much.
Have anything else kicking around? If not and your trying to save money then I Geuss give it a go but if your going to be growing a while or want better results it’s important to get a good bloom nutrient (tons of them out there)

Hi Nicky, that was all I could find that had the other elements other than the NPK stuff which I hve from the ILGM pack. That was a one shot hit to c ve it MG, CU, etc… thanks for the heads up.

:+1::+1::+1:

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Yeah it can be harder to find a good all in one nute
NPK industries has the best I’ve seen (then you just add more cal mag).
What I have learned as a soil grower is a really really good soil is super important, that’s why I love the fox farms mix.
Happy frog on top 1/3 and 2/3 of ocean forest, you get all the micros you need. Happy frog has humic acid while ocean forest has kelp and together they boost root development, that added with mkyos does a good job.

How long did you let them veg for before the flip? They are quite large and thus you definitely need good nutrients because you would need huge pots in order to feed those things otherwise.

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Hi Nicky, I noticed longer flower pistil hairs begining to appear were the branch splits in week five. These are Norther Light Auto’s, so from week 6 they went onto the flowering feed. Plant #1 started two weeks earlier than #2 and is in the first week of flushing.
:seedling::palm_tree::sunflower:

Sounds like your paying attention and that’s the main ingredient to success.

Add a @ before you type mine or anyone else’s name to tag us, it will ensure that I see your trying to talk to me otherwise sometimes a post gets lost.
@Andreas :+1:

You picked a great strain it’s actually my all time favorite, the original at least I haven’t grown the autos yet I plan to next grow though.
They can grow really big so your plants should stop growing this week and start bulking up