First Time Grower - Paranoid About Light Burn & Temperatures

Hello! First and foremost thank you so much for this forum and community - If it wasn’t for all of you, I would have never gotten into this wonderful world of Marijuana!

With that being said, I do have a few newbie questions. Here is all of my information to help get the best answer.

This is my very first grow. I’m growing 3 plants each a different strain:

  • Girl Scout Cookies
  • Night Fire OG
  • Unknown (free seed)

Indoor Grow Room Information

Average Environment Conditions:

  • 77F - 82F Average Temp
  • 40% - 59% Humidity Average
  • LED lights roughly 2.5 - 3 feet above plants

From seed, I’ve been on a 18/6 light schedule, and recently changed to a 24-hour light period starting 10/05/2019, for no reason other than it was easier for me to maintain until I turn over to a 12/12 schedule for flowering.

For the sake of having fun and learning as much as I can with this first grow, I’ve decided to Low-Stress Train 2 of the 3 plants. The third “unknown” plant I’ve decided to grow traditionally.

I will admit that I’m checking in on my plants 3/4 times a day…well, because I think they’re beautiful and I can’t stop looking at them. lol

With that being said, when I’m viewing my plants under the lights I feel like there is some fairly moderate “yellowing” in the center of the bud-sites, and I’m noticing that the leaf tips are beginning to exhibit very slight yellowing as well.

However, when I take my plants out of the light they seem to be this rich and vibrant evergreen with little to no signs of yellowing.

So my question is this, am I just too close to these plants and “babysitting” them too much, and thus making a bigger deal out of this than need be?

Or, are my plants experiencing the first signs of Light Burn / Hot Temperatures? If so, is there anything I can do short of raising the light higher? My only concern is that the LED light is literally the highest it can possibly go in my tent.

Any/All help is greatly appreciated. And again - thank you so much for the love on this site. amazing community!

Plants, when viewed outside of the, grow tent:
IMG_0024 IMG_0027 IMG_0028

Plants, when viewed inside of the, grow tent:
IMG_0029 IMG_0032 IMG_0035

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Iam New to growing , and iam just curious what are you growing in and your pot size?

Normal !

The lightness in the middle is normal! If you start having issues with light burn you will see it also on the fan leaves and stuff as well. Not just right in the middle !

Mine do this as well . This pick is at first day of 12/12 flip for flowering . It’s the new growth and it’s fine

And I don’t really see any yellowing on the edge of leaves . You will also see curling of the leaves if it is to hot or too cold

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Plants are fine, the blurple light is the problem. Always diagnose in natural light (and we appreciate natural light pictures).

What soil and nutes are you using? What are you watering with and are you PH’ing the water? If so, with what? Digital meter? Strips? Drops?

I would strongly suggest remaining on a day/night cycle to allow plants to rest: they do much of their growing and most of the nutrient-shuffling in darkness. Look up the definition of PPF and PPFD.

Those 3 plants should probably be flipped to 12/12 soon as you do not have enough room for 2 plants, much less 3. That is basically a 1 plant space.


Hey @Tinman thanks for asking.

Right now to keep things simple I’m using Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Potting Mix, and each plant is currently in a 2.5 Qt. planting container.

@Bluedonut09 Awesome! Thank you so much for this information - this puts my worries at ease. Your grow looks amazing by the way!

Is that a single plant?

@Myfriendis410 Great- thank you so much for this information! I’m glad it’s just me worrying and not an actual issue.

For soil I’m currently using Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Potting Soil. I’m a first time growing, and when I first started reading about PHing, nutrients, etc. I started to get overwhelmed.

For water I’m using filtered tap water. I’m not testing or measuring anything.

Seriously though - thank you VERY much for all of your tips. I’m going to adjust my timer and put the plants back on a 18/6 light schedule.

Additionally, I’ve taken your advice about the spacial constrints I have.

I think what I’m going to do is this: one of the plants’ main cola broke off 100% today because I was getting too greedy with my LST. For the sake of seeing this process through I’m going to move that one outside and let it grow. If it works, awesome. If it doesn’t, that’s ok because it’s broken and I don’t have space.

I’ll leave the most successful plant in the tent and have that be the primary focus for this growing experience.

As for the remaining plant…well, not sure? :man_shrugging:

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Before you transplant up, do a bit of research and see if you can acquire something more appropriate for growing cannabis. It’s pretty much the worst thing (sorry) to use: Miracle Gro Moisture Control. There are growers that use it successfully but they have their system down. The first problem is it’s extremely high load of fertilizers which come from some harsh sources. This will hurt the overall smoke of the finished flower. The other issue is you will be fighting lockouts and excesses due to very low PH. Something more like the Fox Farms Happy Frog would help and transplant up to a larger pot size.

The other thing you need to do is start measuring your PH of input water. This water should be left out for 24 hours to vent any chlorine (if a muni water supply) and should be PH’d into the range for whatever media you are using (soil should be 6.5).

Hope this helps a bit. Bite the bullet now, trust me.



I now know to grow I should scrog or only grow 2 plants

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Moisture control MG and less than one gallon grow pots? Oh, I am worried for your girls as they get bigger.

If you can, get them into bigger pots with better soil. If you can’t, flip to flower asap and hope for the best.

They look good. Maybe some canoeing, but they look good.


@Myfriendis410 Thank you so incredibly much for this information. I’ve noted everything, and will deploy all of this new knowledge for my next “crop”!

I completely understand what you’re saying about the type of medium used to plant in. I’ll transition over to Fox Farms for the next crop.

Regarding the PHing though. Are you able to expand on this a bit? Specifically what I’m concerned about is having a 100% natural end product. With manipulating the PH up or down, aren’t PH balancers synthetic chemicals? If not, please point me in the correct direction so I can learn.

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First off - thank you for the kind words about the look of my girls. :relaxed: lol

Yes - I 100% agree with you and @Myfriendis410 regarding the soil. This was my first grow and I (obviously) wasn’t sure exactly what I was doing. I’ll be transplanting soon into larger pots for them to expand into…

Thanks again! Seriously love all this help from everyone!

Dude; if you are worried about synthetic chemicals, Miracle Gro is NOT for you. The small amount of additives to adjust the PH (something already done once by a city water supply containing numerous minerals) that it isn’t really worth worrying about. If you do want to manipulate the PH more naturally you can use Baking Soda for PH up and lemon juice for PH down. Unfortunately you will never be able to get the MG soil into a range that the plants will be happy in. They are going to give you lots of trouble.


Potassium Bicarbonate and Citric Acid are excellent, organic means of raising/lowering pH. Safe for the soil food web


I would suggest strongly that when you do transplant into 5 gallon fabric pots or whatever size and type pots that you don’t use the miracle grow but get some happy frog or ocean Forrest or roots organic original bag soil. You’ll need one 1.5 cubic foot bag for two 5 gallon pots.
Best time to get on a better track with better soil now rather than your next grow.
Up to you
Good luck with things


Just saying welcome to the forum @Unvetica_Dream_Buds. As stated… if worried about synthetics (especially chemical, ‘bad’ synthetics) they are spot on… MG is suspect #1! But i digress… best of luck and lets see some buds!

Thank you for the welcome! And yes as you, @Skydiver, @blackthumbbetty and @Myfriendis410 have educated me on the newonces of soil and having a strong soil foundation before starting to plant seeds.

All new information to me, and trust me, it has been heard and received! So much so that I’ve gone ahead and ordered FoxFarm Ocean Forest Potting Soil along with some VIVOSUN 2 Gallon Grow Bags.

They should be here within the next few days, I’m going to let the rest of the water soak up so it’ll make for easier transplanting when the good materials come. It’s my understand that I’ll probably have some residual nitrogen due to the MG start…but this will be great knowledge to bring to my next crop :slight_smile:

Thanks so much everyone for all your help - I literally can’t get enough of this site/forum. You’re all continuing to make this growing experience a blast.


Ok - minor update, plus I have a few more questions. I took the advice of @Myfriendis410 @blackthumbbetty and @Skydiver and got rid of the Miracle Grow soil, and have replaced it with the only thing I could find in town that seemed better: SunGrow Black Gold Natural & Organic potting mix + fertilizer.

From what I can tell there is far less nitrogen in this mix, and the composition of the mix seems to be much better/wholesome.

I went ahead and transplanted all three of my girls. I tried to get rid of as much of the Miracle Grow as I possibly could from the root system but was still careful as to not damage any of the roots themselves.

I then did a visual inspection of the roots - and from my limited knowledge (none), they seemed good? There was no presence of mold or mildew anywhere, and the structure of the roots seemed good to me as well.

I then took the advice from @Myfriendis410 and upgraded the pots I was using from a 2.6 Qt Plastic pot, and transferred everything to a VIVOSUN 2 Gallon Grow Bags.

I’m extremely happy with this transition, and excited knowing that the end product will be slightly better. I do have a minor concern, I’m starting to see the leaves change a bit - and I’m wondering if I don’t have the beginnings of some sort of deficiency or nutrient issue?

I’m going to give the girls a few days to recover from the transplant, and monitor them - but can anyone tell me if I should be concerned about the minor yellowing/discoloring of these leaves?

Thanks again for all of the tips/suggestions on my first grow everyone - couldn’t do it without you all!:clap:

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Could be the start of a magnesium deficiency.
Next time you water add 1-2 tsp of Epsom salt per gallon of water then adjust the Ph to around 6.5 and water slowly over a couple steps and 20 minutes between steps.

Very thorough job getting rid of the miracle grow soil. I myself would have just been happy with the new soil all around the old stuff when I up potted.

You’ll need to decide on how and what you are going to feed them the nutrients they will need to finish. All natural amendments can be used if that is your goal.
At this point there are several ways you’ll Feed them.
Top dressing dry amendments into the top inch or so of the soil (such as Epsom salts) and water that in. You can also feed them with dry amendments that can be dissolved into water and fed (such as Epsom salt) that provides magnesium and sulfur. There are also products that are premixed already in liquid form that you either then dilute if it is concentrated or feed as is if ready to use. These can be “easier” but cost more and your tossing a lot of plastic oil in trash via containers etc.
You can also foliar feed them nutrients. Back to the Epsom salt. You can mix up Epsom and water and put in a sprayer and foliar spray the leaves which will be a quicker correction for a deficiency than watering in the soil with a drench. Be careful doing this as you’ll want to 1) use correct ratios of water to nutrient. 2) careful to keep from burning your leaves from the magnifying effects of lights when water drops on leaves…foliar just before lights out…or…lower the output of the lights temporarily until leaves dry…or…raise the lights up temporarily etc. depends on what lights you use as to how much of this might happen.
I can spray leaves when using T5 fluorescent bulbs and not worry much about water drops burning leaves. But if I am using much stronger lights I will be concerned and alter things to keep that from happening.

Nitrogen in the miracle grow (nor any other nutrient such as phosphorus or potassium etc) wasn’t a bad thing per se as they will need a lot of it it was just that chemically designed fertilizer is akin to having an IV hooked up to you forcing all the stuff into you without regard to what you may really be needing. Miracle grow and other products can contain these little synthetic nutrient balls that will dissolve when they want to and not necessarily when the plants need them.
On the flip side using mother nature’s processes with a healthy soil food web allows all the critters to break down the nutrients in the soil into a usable form the plants can use. Then there are Mychorizal fungi that grow and connect to the roots and they share info and exchange nutrients back and forth so they both are happy.
Teaming with Fungi - excerpts from the book

Just like in the ocean there is a pecking order little fish gets eaten by bigger fish and all the while they are alive they are shitting out food for other things that can use it and on and on. Decay!

Growing naturally and organically can be a challenge at first sifting through all the information especially when it comes to all the stuff being sold. For example the fox farm nutrient line. (Google them and learn why)"…"…not knocking fox farm as they have a lot of great offerings just using them as an example of what too look for when considering food for the soil critters.
Big Bloom is considered organic
Tiger bloom is considered synthetic
Bother products made by Fox Farms…
Organic works with the soil food web and provides the food buffet and the critters can walk up to the offerings and decide what they want to put on their plate.
Synthetics provide now ready nutrients that the plants roots can take in sometimes even when they really don’t want what is being served.
Natural nutrients slow to show corrections like when they need more nitrogen because of yellowing upper leaves.
Synthetic nutrients fast to feed plants directly the nitrogen for example but also much easier to overdose them with nutrients too.
Synthetics can and do harm the critters populations and can throw the soil food web out of balance.
The critters eat, shit and reproduce and are also a food supply for bigger critters. They as a whole web are master chefs cooking up the nutrients when needed.

Get a bag of earth worm castings too. Many ways to use this stuff. Full of living and dormant critters and food that help with the soil food web. Top dress some into soil or Put in bucket with water and air stone and some unsulphered black strap molasses and make some aerated compost tea to water with.
Mix it in with the soil you use before transplanting etc.

Future options can be buying ready to use Super Soil that contains all the nutrients to take you from seed to harvest and you just add Phd water. There are several makers of this type of pre made soil. Kind Soil is one such company. Build a soil is another.

You can also buy the ingredients and make your own super soil. The ingredients needed vary by recipe but most of them would be the same you’ll need now to feed them. The dry amendments I use mostly come from a company called Down To Earth Products been around since ‘77 and respect Mother Earth.

Here is a link to a super soil recipe. I just mixed up the 1/2 size recipe making 45 gallons of super soil and will use 50% super soil on bottom of pots and 50% of bagged soil like roots organic original or one of Fox Farms mixes as the top half of say a 5 gallon sized pot. So my 45 gallons will give me a total of 90 gallons soil at a 50/50 mix.
This if mixed correctly would also be a water only grow so unlike what you’ll be doing with this grow feeding and all would be less involved.

The soil I mixed is currently “cooking” as it’s called referring to the natural process of breaking down things and getting the soil food web started etc. getting it ready for the roots and plant etc.

Great move putting them into bigger homes. FYI 2 gallon pots are really small to finish them in but can be done. In general if Auto seeds 3 gallon pots or bigger. Photos seeds 5 gallon pots or bigger. Bigger the pots the more soil the more soil more roots more plant etc.

Anyway long post hope this helps.
A lot of great folks here to help and a lot of information already posted here that you can also search for.
I’m new as well but learning too as I go.

Search - Daily Light Integral

Temperature and Humidity
Search - vapor pressure deficit

Feeding the soil critters and not the plants is what your wanting to do!



THE best amendment out there. Other dry amendments are: fruit bat guano and insect bat guano. The former is rich in P and K and the latter in N. Chicken guano is good although should be well composted before use. Epsom salt is wonderful. Adding mycorrhizai to the soil layer can be helpful too.