I understand
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2- TOLYS 1000w
2-dehumidifier
2-16in fans
1-4x8 tent
1-ph tester
1-8in in-line duct fan
I already bought this stuff because I didnât know better. I can return lights
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Yeah, I think itâs wise to return those lights, unless you want to use one for seedlings. Even then, I think you can find a better LED or fluorescent light for that job.
The reason those amazon imports are so bad isnât that theyâre garbage, but instead they misrepresent their power. Theyâll take 100 LED chips that are rated to run 10watts for a short time, but they only run them at 1.2 watts. So the lamp draws nowhere near 1000 watts from the wall. And it doesnât cover the same square footage as a 1000w HPS, even though thatâs the implication theyâre making.
Are you planning to take those brackets off the wall? Iâm trying hard to image two tents and room to move in this space.
Thatâs gonna be my 2 spaces
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Yes I will
Iâm only putting 1 4x8 tent for veg, the other space is for flower
Thereâs working room
I get that, but we canât tell the dimensions of the room from the photos. If the window-wall is only 8â, then it might be hard (but not impossible) to vent that tent.
The tents end up with ducts coming out. Usually they go out the side of the tent. Some tents have top ports too. Either way you need space to accommodate the duct, which will probably be ~6â in diameter.
Iâm exaggerating the length of the output duct, but itâs nice to move that exhaust a little bit away from the tent where air is getting pulled back in. I think you might run into trouble if you blast the air against the drywall. Maybe.
I need to run. Iâll check back on this tonight.
How can I contact u?
Iâm right here! 
Forum rules donât allow us to exchange personal info, unfortunatelyâŚbut also, thatâs a good thing, for security.
âMentorâ is a strong word 
Letâs take this a step at a time. I have a TBI, sorry if I ramble, in advance. First things first, if you havenât already, download Robertâs grow bible here:
âŚand his plant care guide here:
Tons of great information in both! Fully understanding at least part of it will answer a lot of new grower questions you have.
Youâve got a good room to work with! The first thing Iâd do is clear it out and block off the window from light and heat/cold, then throw a few hygrometer/thermometers with memory in there at different heights and locations around the room (youâll need those for curing in a few months, anyway, and theyâre cheap), overnight at least. A few nights would be even better. That will give you an idea of where youâre at, and a better idea where to go from there. If that vent on the ceiling is central air, Iâd set the fan that blows air through it to âonâ rather than âauto,â to help with consistency. Conveniently, plants like about the same environment we do, so if your house isnât overly hot, cold, wet, or dry, it should be a piece of cake without a ton of extra equipment. If you like gadgets, save your money for a badass dab rig or something to enjoy the fruits of your labor. On the flip side of that same coin, if itâs something that saves you money overall, time, or hassle, or keeps your plants happier/healthier, itâs worth every penny.
Then, consider how much ventilation you need, and where your exhaust will go. As is, when you close the door, whatever air is blown into that room from the vent probably goes out under the door (light proofing said door is something to consider, too). If you vent the exhaust out into the same room, that will raise the temperature of the whole room (which may be a good thing, depending)âŚif your home stays pretty consistent, you should be golden, until you start getting a ton of light (and in turn, heat) in there. Then, you may need to vent it out through the window, or maybe into the attic or something, to keep it from getting too hot.
You donât necessarily need two tents. One tent could be used to veg in, then the rest of the room could be used to flowerâŚor vice versa. You should first look at what the needs of the plants are at different points in their life. Very simply put, as they age, they like less humidity and cooler temperatures. So, for example, if your room averages a little on the dry side, you might want to consider using it as the flowering space, using the low humidity to your advantage, then work on controlling the humidity in a tent or smaller space (you could build a divider/faux wall pretty cheap, too) to keep younger vegging plants happy. Or, if the room likes to retain humidity, and you anticipate having to remove moisture, you might want to flower in the tent or âenclosedâ part, for more control over the environment, by changing the speed of fans, adding a dehumidifier, etc. The main point is, work with the existing conditions. Once the plants are in there, the humidity will go up, so if it seems a little dry overall, donât panic. Yet.
You also have options as to what you want to grow, as far as how it relates to the setup. For instance, if you struggle to light-proof the room, you could always just grow autosâŚwhich also eliminates the at least some of the need for separate lighting schedules for veg/flower spaces. Or, say itâs a little too dryâŚinstead of running a humidifier, maybe you could do fewer, larger plants. A larger container will retain moisture longer, and thereby keep RH higher, too. And the more foliage, the more stomata releasing moisture into the air. For that matter, you could run hydroâŚa large reservoir of liquid bubbling in the room will probably bring the humidity up some, too. But thatâs a whole different learning curve. Soilless is a little less forgiving in my opinion, so I chose soil first to get my feet wet, and have yet to dabble in hydro. Time vs. yield, hydro wins. Period. So itâs probably in the cards, but weâll seeâŚ
Iâm with @KeystoneCops, take your time. The best setups are ones that have been well laid out beforehandâŚor, theyâve been in operation long enough all the kinks have already been worked out. And there will be kinks. As a first timer, it might be better to start with one tent, one light fixture, and a handful of plants, 2 or 3, to get the hang of how they grow, what to expect, how to react to issues, etc. The more variables you can eliminate, the better. Then you have all that space to gradually expand it to maximize the entire roomâŚahem, all within legal plant count limits, of course 
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Or if you got the bucks head on over to the Fluence site for a super nice fixture for a 4x4 will do 6x6 too lol. But honestly if you want a nice lamp and are a can do kinda person, get @dbrn32 to point you to a home build that will kick ass!
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Im not sure I concur with that? If he were to run that many gas lamps his AC costs would get pretty high wouldnt they?
I believe Las Vegas energy rates are really low compared to other areas. I like sealed, ducted housings for HPS, which can mitigate some of the heat issues. When you look at the capital investment into a quality LED, and the typical gain in efficiency, itâs a while before youâre âmade whole.â
LEDs are the smarter investment for anyone whoâs committed to this, but Iâm calibrating my advice based on the info the OP has offered. They intend to light 64 square feet, and thatâs thousands of dollars to accomplish that in LED, compared to ~$700 in HPS MH.
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Yes you are right. Perhaps a compromise? Cheaper LED lights for veg? Gas lamps for flowering?