I did get a TDS meter as well, I am going to be starting a log (that’s my engineering sanity taking over now) to help regulate what I am doing to see if problems occur again I can make the necessary adjustments to not kill these plants. I do appreciate the insight, I had hoped I would have been able to make ti to the veg stage at least before a problem occurred.
Nothing wrong with journaling or logging your grow. Gives you something to look back and and learn from.
Let’s get the two survivors to the finish line
Sorry if my post was full of false info. I was going on what oldguy said in post #25 about it being full of nutes. I will leave the advising for those who know what they are talking about. I have lost my mind and I only have one eye, so it is taking longer for me to find it. Peace…
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No worries @patchman we were all having a time trying to figure out which pro mix was being used.
New seeds and seedlings don’t need any nutes everything they need for about 2 weeks is in that seed also I would use solo cups instead of peat pots
I can transition them back over to the solo cups, but my initial thought on the small pots were that I could keep them there longer to better control their growth and nutrients before they would be transplanted to the 5 Gallon fabric pots.
Nutrient wise they are only receiving 1/3 of the recommended nutrients on from Fox Farms, this is mainly being applied to the outer edge soil, with regular water being applied twice a day directly over the seeds location.
Mainly trying to prevent a similar issue happening to the plants.
I would leave them in their big pot, but water AROUND them, not directly on them and you should be good!
Like @kaptain3d said. Leave them where they are, no need to add more stress to the equation.
And In coco or pro mix, I start giving nutes at the time I see the first true leaves.
Give them a few days to adjust to the new dry home and you should start to see some improvements.
This has developed on the other two plants as well now.
Any thoughts as to if this will affect their recovery or compromise the new seeds?
Should mention I have sprayed some been oil around the area.
I have been able to resolve the mold issue. Though it would seem one of the girls is not going to recover, the other I’m still on the fence with.
As for the new girls, Ashnikko, Miley, and Rey are on track. I’ve switched my watering for them two every other day as long as the Pro-Mix is still moist around their outer edges. They are following the same process of a ziplock over them to increase their humidity and retain moisture.
Welcome to the forum!
You are welcome to post stuff on my page, it’s just that for getting some help if you have your pertinent info all in one place it’s easier to keep track of and you can find your stuff. I’m still new, but that looks like the same color I went thru which almost killed my girls and that was overwatering and nute lockout due to my ph water being too high at 7.2 most of the time. The soil needs to dry. The ph needs to be where an expert tells you depending on your soil and nutrients. The best thing is you at least have a ph meter.
You probly know this already but overwatering is too much water at a time without drying out sufficiently (at least a knuckle deep with no soil sticking to your skin). I’ve not grown from a seed yet so I’m in on your journal. Best of luck, hope they grow like weeds!
I appreciate the insight, I definitely think I can mitigate some of those issues now that I ordered more supplies and made a switch from the soil I was using.
I am soaking one more seed as a precaution and I am soaking the Pro-Mix at the same time with FF nutrients while also leaving it outside to dry. My thought process is that since the mixture I have does not have any nutrients if I let some build up in the COCO when the seedling depletes it’s own there will already be some in the potting, though half the recommended for seedlings.
I also took some time to clean the tent out, as mold had formed on the plants, I wanted to make sure the new seedlings are protected.
I have transferred the problem plants outside as the temperature and humidity is on par with the indoor setup. I figured if they are going to recover having natural light, CO2, and Temperature would be best. Though I really don’t see them making a recovery at this point.
The downside is I’ve lost 3 weeks. Hopefully with a more closely watched process this will be the only issue.
Also is anyone familiar with TPS Nutrients Kit and the Advanced Nutrients (Grow, Bloom, Micro)
I am trying to make sure that I have everything that would be needed for the plants so if any issues do appear I have whats needed to correct it?
I started out with nothing at all, except a plant and a tent kit the most important stuff was the ph & tds meters, ph adjust solution, your nutrients, fans and a visit home. You will need some sort of humidifier for veg, and a dehumidifier for flower.
I have a humidifier in there now though not running as the little ones are covered.
Dehumidifier I wonder if I can use a silica base. I’m more familiar with that as I work with electrical SMD components daily for work, I also have a large available supply of them and they take up less space.
I’m already figuring when I switch to flower I’ll need extra space so it’s something I am trying to plan for now.
I do plan to use them after harvest for their curing stage.
Sorry been busy woth the fam. Did u end up figuring out the problem. Also when u transplant the ones in the papery cup deals rip the cups or tear put the bottom or something. They dont break down fast enoigh in the dirt for the roots to spread the right way. Sorry to say this again. Always best to go with a soil or coco and some solo cups or anything that will be easy for the plant and toot ro slide out of super easy. Old pop bottles work plastic cups ect just make sure that the opening of the cup is smaller than the bottom (angled) and try and get cups that dont have alot of design and curves the smoother the cup the easier the root ball will slide out. Drill like 8 or 10 holes all around bottom like a strainer basically. When plant grows where the leaves are surpassed tge edge of the cups get a bigger 5 or 7 gal pot ready fill up with medium put the plant in the center of pot and backfill around the plant i soak down the whole pot where spil.os saturated good and a few drips show out of bottom then i slide the solo cup.out of the spil which should leave u a hole in the soil put the stem between fingers tip cup and give a small push in the center of the cup and it should slide right out into ur hand. If u do great white or mykos sprinkle in hole and on roots put the root ball in the hole and press down just a small bit not to fracture roots but to get them a slight bit loose in the soil they were in they will now start to stretch and grow into the wet medium for u. When all is light to touch soak it down again half gallon or so around the stem not close to. As water seeps it spreads out and in so as it goes down it spreads to sides and center. Always water about 6 inches away from stalk til she is a nice bush and u have no choice but to soak her down all the time. 3.5 week old maui wauis
TheThese mauis are growing nuts. Second pic i flipped to flower 2 days ago other thus weekend after i take one or 2 down for some room
Based on what I’ve gathered I transplanted too soon, their roots seemed to be fully wrapped in the solo cups I used. This is why I switched to the Pete pots, I figured I can leave them in there a bit longer with the new ones before placing them in their 5g Pots.
I plan to remove the Pete pots from them before transplanting.
Based on your photos mine were way behind in growth. Before they were hit with problems they were 2.5 weeks old and nowhere close to size of yours.