First indoor grow ( gsc x ?, purple haze x ?, couple randoms)


#422

Sweet post 420!!!


#423

Thanks @LoCoRock that’s a great idea just let it soak in huh I did a 50/ 50 of 3% h202 to RO water how long should it take for the leaves to clear up and what can mildew do to a plant if left unchecked


#424

Yall have me buggin… i saw whitish looking spots today. Thought maybe i wasted nute water and it dried. Didnt get to look at them today, was kinda busy. Uggggh its killin me now…


#425

I ain’t seeing no results …guys…


#426

It didnt wipe off? With the spray down tag a clean towel n wipe it gently. Should come off id think. I know im tryin in the am


#427

Negative it’s still there and I’ve sprayed them 5+ sessions


#428

We have lift off


#430

@PurpNGold74 how’d it mildew go


#431

False alarm. It was nute water residue :grin::grin:. I took a wet towel to her and nothing came back. :+1:t5::+1:t5:

U get urs in check?


#432

@fano_man any luck with the milfdew?


#433

Kiiinda… the peroxide is kinda working I got really whipe the leaf… I dont know if its the peroxide or the wiping and I’m very gun shy on the wiping as most of my clones are monster crops just entering veg . There branches and leaves are very dainty thin kinda woody but none the less thin and leaves are all small so difficult to wipe every leaf @budbrother you said baking soda and water what do I do with how much and what’s the cleaning process


#434

Mix 1.5 tablespoons of sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) with 1 gallon of water and liquid soap. Spray liberally up to every other day. Can also be used late into flowering.


#435

Thanks bro hitting grocery store in the am… got court in the am there closing my case finally! Woohoo!


#436

Glad to hear it…


#437

Congrats man. :clap:t5::clap:t5::clap:t5::clap:t5::raised_hands:t5::raised_hands:t5::raised_hands:t5::raised_hands:t5:


#438

Ok I give up on powdery mildew approach now I’m on to “thrips” cheack out the similarity to what I see on mine to the screen shots I took from website… all symptoms identical… seems like dried up spit or a snail trail… leaves begin get yellow dots and eventually kills leaves

these are my leaves you csnt see the spit like streaks here the google pics…
@garrigan65
@OldSchoolGrower
@raustin
can u take a look at this


#439

Shit after some inspection I found some aphids

and I believe this is a thrip this is the cure I very got it eureka!!


#440

@fano_man

Thrips

Thrips are really tiny, but can be seen by the naked eye.
Some may have wings and some may not. Thrips reproduce rapidly,
especially in tight places. That is what makes them hard to get
rid of when using pesticides. The suck the sap right out of your
plant with there piercing mouths, which makes the leaves look
like they turned white. You can tell when you have thrips by
taking a look at your leaves, the leaves will look as if there
chlorophyll have been ripped right off the plant. Plants that are
damaged can’t be healed thus making it harder for the plant to
absorb light. SO if left untreated the thrips will kill the plants.
Damage also can be seen by the greenish black specks of there poop
they leave on leaves. Also the plants will show silver patchs from
scar tissue. Depending on the severity at first, thrip damage might
look like spider mite damage untill it increases in damage and then
thrips case is for sure when you see the greenness replace with big
parts of white.Thrips also can causes viruses to the plants and any
larvae infected will breed more infected pests!. While they suck,
the plants release honeydew which can contribute to mold on your plants.
Adults have wings but do not fly well, but rather jump more. There
are different kinds of Thrips, some more resistant to chemicals.
Thrips can also carry plant pathogens in there mouths and carry
it to other plants increasing the chance for your plants to get
infected. . If your plants are affected during late flowering or
close to harvest, please try to use the safest means of control to
be safe to your health.

Control

One good way to repel thrips for those growing outside is to use garlic,
this is a good way to keep them away before you get them. The color
yellow attracts the thrips and should be advised not to have this color
around your grow… If you already have them using neem oil, and or lady
bugs can get rid of them. If the infestation is bad then you need to
use biological solution like, pyrethrin-like insecticides.

Other Products include:

Chemicals
Hot Pepper Wax ,Safer Yard & Garden Insecticide (which can be used right
to the day of harvest),GNATROL( used in hydro in the water as well as soil)
,Doc’s Neem Pest Soap ,Safer Sticky Stakes,TR-11000 Pyrethrum.


#441

@fano_man

Aphids / Green Fly / Black Fly

Aphids are soft-bodied insects which can appear white, green, yellow, black, brown and red,
depending on their stage of life and where you live. Because they’re so widespread they can
be a cannabis pest almost anywhere in the world!

rounder bugs are adult aphids, while the white, smaller, thinner bugs are young aphids (nymphs).
Note: If you’re seeing white bugs that look like tiny fat worms, you may actually have thrips.

Infestation of aphids on cannabis leaf. The big fat bugs are adult aphids and the small white bugs
are young aphids

Sometimes when growers see tiny “Black Fly” or “Green Fly” bugs on their cannabis, they’re actually
seeing aphids with wings. Winged aphids can be dark or pale, and may be black, green, red or yellow.
However, the general body shape is usually pretty similar whether aphids have wings or not.

A winged aphid hanging out on a leaf, trying to start an infestation!

Because many aphids that attack cannabis are green, sometimes people don’t recognize aphids when
they’re a different color (like these young aphids which appear red, or black aphids as you’ll see below)

The aphids you see on your cannabis plant may come in different colors depending on their stage
of life and where you live.

Aphids are a common cannabis pest. Adults are usually small and oval-shaped and may have dicernable
wings or antennae. Nymph aphids are thin/long and usually white.

An adult aphid on a cannabis plant making a drop of honeydew - you don’t want it as it attracts sooty mold!

Aphids pierce cannabis leaves with their sucking mouth-parts and feed on the juices inside. They
usually occur in colonies located mainly on the undersides of stems and leaves.

If a cannabis plant becomes heavily-infested, its leaves can turn yellow and/or wilt due to the
excessive stress and leaf damage.

Another problem with aphids is they produce large amounts of a sweet substance known as “hondeydew,”
a sugary liquid waste. Honeydew drops from these insects can attract a type of fungus called sooty
mold can grow on honeydew deposits accumulating on the leaves and branches of your plant, turning them black.

The drops of sweet honeydew can also attract other insects such as ants.

What Causes an Aphid Infestation?

Your plant can become infested when winged “colonizer” aphids land on the plant and lay eggs.
Although you may not see the winged version of an aphid actually eating your plant, they are
still dangerous because they can lay eggs and start a new aphid colony!

Winged aphids are sometimes called “blackfly” or “greenfly” bugs depending on the color
(because they are often black or green/yellow, and they look like tiny flies).

“Black fly” aphid

A dark winged aphid (“blackfly” aphid) hanging out on a leaf, trying to start an infestation!

“Green fly” aphid

A pale winged “colonizer” aphid and a young aphid larvae on a marijuana leaf

It’s difficult to prevent aphids from getting to your cannabis plants outdoors as just a
handful of winged aphids is all it takes to start an infestation. The eggs soon hatch into a
juvenile form of aphids called “nymphs,” which happily start munching on your plant.

Immature aphids (nymphs) usually appear white and feed on plant sap while they gradually increase
in size. Note: If you see tiny white bugs but they look round, fat and more worm-like than these
ones, you may actually have thrips.

Closeup of aphids in nymph form on cannabis bud

The aphid nymphs mature in 7 to 10 days and shed their skin, leaving silvery exoskeletons behind
on your plants.

The bottom center aphid is actually in the middle of shedding its exoskeleton in this pic.

Aphids on cannabis leaves - one is actually in the middle of shedding its exoskeleton

After reaching their wingless adult form (aphids don’t grow wings when actively colonizing your plant)
they are soon ready to give birth to live young and start the process over again. Most aphids in this
form are female, and each one is capable of producing dozens of offspring.

Adult aphid and exoskeletons on a cannabis bud

Adult aphid on cannabis plant

Because of their quick reproduction, a few winged aphid “colonizers” can lead to hundreds or even
thousands of aphids on a plant in just a few generations. A full-blown aphid infestation can get
out of control in just a few weeks!

Adult aphid on cannabis plant

Aphids often keep reproducing on the plant until the plant becomes so stressed (or the conditions become so crowded)
that the plant can no longer support their ravenous appetites. At that point some of the aphids are born with wings,
and these winged aphids fly off in search of a new host, starting the process over again on a new plant victim.
Solution to Aphids: Get Rid of Them Quick!

Avoid using nervous system insecticides, such as malathion, Dursban (chlorpyrifos), and Orthene (acephate).
They are labeled for use on many shade trees and ornamental plants for aphid control, but are not safe to
use on cannabis. If something isn’t safe to be used on edible plants, then chances are it’s not safe to
use on cannabis.

1.) Check regularly for signs of aphids

Aphids are an annoying marijuana pest

The best way to prevent an aphid infestation is to catch it as soon as possible. When growing outdoors
it’s pretty difficult to predict when winged “colonizer” aphids will appear, so it’s incredibly important
to examine your plants at least weekly to make sure they don’t become infested while you’re not paying attention.

Examine the bud area and undersides of the new leaves for clusters or colonies of small aphids
(or any other types of bugs). The presence of these colonies indicates that the aphids are established
on the plants and their numbers will begin to increase rapidly.

2.) Remove or Spray Off As Many Bugs As Possible

If your plant is heavily infested, it’s a good idea to try to cut down their numbers in every way possible.
Depending on the infestation, one way to do that may be to simply move your plants outside and spray as many
bugs off as you can with a power sprayer. It’s also a good idea to remove leaves and buds that are heavily infected.

If possible, spray off as many bugs as you can!

A One-Hand Pressure Sprayer is perfect for misting plants

Get Inseticidal soap to kill cannabis aphids - available on Amazon.com!

3.) Insecticidal soaps

Fatty acid salts or insecticidal soaps can be a good choice against aphids. They weaken the outer shell of
aphids but are safe to use on your plants and they don’t leave much of a residue.

With soaps, coverage is very important as it does not stay on your plant for long, so follow-up applications
may be necessary. Although this is considered safe, avoid getting any on your buds!
4.) Neem Oil

Neem Oil will leave an unpleasant taste/smell on buds when used to treat flowering plants, so again, don’t
let this stuff get near your buds! There’s also some evidence Neem oil may be harmful to humans so use with
care! That being said, Neem oil is an all-natural remedy that is very effective against many different types
of bugs and mold. You will need a mister (also called a “One-Hand Pressure Sprayer”) to spray all the leaves
evenly, since neem oil and water can separate easily.

Get Neem Oil Extract on Amazon.com!A One-Hand Pressure Sprayer is perfect for misting plants

5.) Spinosad

Spinosad Products (safe & organic) – Spinosad products are organic and completely harmless to pets, children,
and plants. Spinosad products can be used directly to kill aphids on contact and should be sprayed liberally
anywhere you see aphids and especially under the leaves. Although maybe not as strong against pests as some of
the more harsh insecticides, it does work and it’s very safe for plants, animals and humans!

Recommended: Monterey Garden Insect Spray with Spinosad

Spinosad products are organic and kill spider mites, caterpillers and thripsSpinosad is an organic insecticide
made from the fermentation of a specific soil bacteria (actinomycete Saccharopolyspora spinosa) and kills aphids
via ingestion or contact by effecting the insect’s nervous system. Spinosad can be a good choice for organic and
outdoor growers, because it is very toxic to aphids, but is less toxic to many beneficial insects and spiders.

Note: Most spinosad products are effective for only about 24 hours after being mixed with water, so only mix as
much as you will need per application. Anything left over will be waste.

You will need a mister (also called a “One-Hand Pressure Sprayer”) to cover all the leaves evenly when spraying
them with spinosad products.

A One-Hand Pressure Sprayer is perfect for misting plants

6.) Essentria IC3

Essentria IC3 Insecticide is a mix of various horticultural oils that is organic and safe for humans. It is
often marketed as a “bed bug killer” but it can be effective against aphids when the plants are treated regularly.
Unfortunately it only stays effective on the plant for about 8 hours so you will want to either apply this daily
or combine with other options. You will need a mister (also called a “One-Hand Pressure Sprayer”) to spray all the
leaves evenly.

Get Essentria IC3 insecticide on Amazon.com - this can be a tool in the fight against broad mites or A One-Hand
Pressure Sprayer is perfect for misting plants

7.) Beneficial Insects

Beneficial insects, such as lady beetles, lady bugs, and lacewings may eat large numbers of aphids and are
welcome guests in the garden. Although you can order ladybugs to release around your plants, they tend to
fly away in just a day or two. Additionally, the reproductive capability of aphids is so great that the impact
of the natural enemies may not be enough keep aphids at or below acceptable levels after an infestation has
already gotten started.

Ladybugs are good to have around the garden – they eat aphids and other annoying cannabis pests!

On this cannabis leaf, a hungry ladybug eats an aphid

Many other “lady bird” type beetles also eat aphids

Many lady bird beetles eat aphids off your cannabis plants

This scary looking black bug is actually a young ladybird larvae, so don’t kill it! They devour aphids as
youngsters too, so it’s good to let them do their thing ??


#442

Thanks bro good to know I was right now to hit the garden center jeez I cant win … damn warm Florida weather makes you pay the price sometimes lol