Why did you feel you needed a platform? I would believe the concrete would act to stabilize and cool the soil temps more easily that the platform?
Good question @WickedAle
The floor in the basement is really too cold especially in the winter.
The main reason is I have no sump pump system and the 50+ year old house footer drain tiles made of clay are somewhat clogged and once in awhile if there is heavy rains for an extended period of time I can get some water on the floor and I wanted to be preemptive and raise it up. Did the same with my first tent too.
In order to eliminate that problem itās either dig channels inside around foundation and install new āguttersā and sump or dig around foundation outside and replace the existing footer drains and add a sump and as of now neither one is something I want to do for the times I get some water when all those conditions come in to play
Forgot what a PITA it is setting up a tent that size by myself.
But I got er done 
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Nice tent
Makes sense! Looks great on the platform.
My short Indica girls wearing their platform shoes
I received my new seed today.
So many optionsā¦dang
So I have a couple questions about growing Autos as that is what Iām going to germinate first.
I have 2 different 3 gallon containers
One taller and narrower and the other wider and shorter.
Iām wondering if 3 gallons will be big enough or would I be better of with a 5 gallon pot even though Autos are shorter time to harvest.
Also I posed the question to Kind Soil but never heard back from them about if growing Autos and because of shorter cycle how much Kind Soil to use for a 3 gallon pot. Iām guessing based on their FAQs said 5 gallon pot with Auto can use 3 pounds. So Iām thinking I would only need 1 1/2 - 2Lbs.
@SilentHippie any ideas on the Kind if youāve grown Autos with it?
Thanks all in advance for your input
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So I maybe having an issue on several of my plants in veg.
Some are showing and some arenāt yellowing / light green at new growth tips.
Soil is Kind at bottom and FFOF with FFCocoLoco and a few other amendments.
7 gal pots
They are approx 12 weeks old since popping through soil.
Transplanted from 1 gal to 7 gal about 2 weeks ago. Iāve only watered once and that was 7 days ago.
4x8 tent
2 HLG 600H lights
20 hrs on 4 off
Temps Day 74-78
Night 68
Humidity between 45-54%
C02 ranges 550-800
Iām thinking either the lights are too bright or itās a cal mag thing.
Lights are 34-36ā above plants
Iāve been lowering power to them. Was at 100% a week ago and went to ~ 80% then ~ 70% and today I set to 50% (the indent on the potentiometer)
Kind doesnāt recommend using RO . I emailed them about that too and never heard back from them. Asked them if using RO should I be adding cal mag.
I will be watering them I would think in the next day maybe 2 and was thinking either mixing RO 4ppm with my tap 250ppm which will provide all the stuff my city tosses in the water too. And or just use RO and add CalMag using general organics CaMg
The pics are from today
Medijuana 1from seed
Medi 2
Pineapple Express 1 - clone
Pineapple 2
Waikiki Queen 1 - clone
Waikiki 2
White Widow Extreme 1 - seed
WWX 2
Any thought on what Iām seeing and corrective action needed @MattyBear @garrigan62 @dbrn32 @ anyone else who can offer some feedback
Thanks and HAGD
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Pretty common occurrence with this style of lighting, especially if you were jamming with lights. A lot of the calcium in your tap may not be mobile too.
I had to zoom on pics which made them a little blurry, but it appears you have a few that are pretty legit, even maybe some burnt tips? I would caution hitting those with calmag.
The others appearing to be more hungry you can give them a little blast and should hold them at bay.
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I donāt have any experience with autos but I believe the website says to use half a bag of Kind soil for 3 gal autos. Iām sure you could use a bag in a 5 gallon but you may not use up all the goodies in the soil before sheās ready.
I have not experienced the yellowing you are. Hopefully someone can check in and offer suggestions. The only variable thatās really different from my grow is your lighting schedule. I run 18/6 and have no idea if the 20/4 schedule can cause those yellowing issues.
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This is this is your problem happens ever time seems like.
The yellow tips is "NUTRIENT BURN " HERE IS A PIC OF NUTRIENT BURN
?Nutrient Burn is one of the MOST common mistakes a new grower makes,
The reason for this is, because a newer grower will use a chemical nutrient
most of the time and listen to the directions on the box. This is a NO NO!
Depending on the age of the plant, size, strain and soil mixture you are using
also has a factor. There is no set guideline when using nutrients, but I can
give you a good example to start out with so you will not burn your plants.
Itās always good to start out light, rather than feed heavy. Remember you can
always add more later, but can not take out when you added to much. Chemical
and Organic nutrients differ. Chemical nutrients are more readily available
and can burn way easier than organics can. Organics are easier for a newer
grower to use, most of the time, and lessen your chances of burning your plants.
I recommend not using more than Ā½ teaspoon of chemical nutrients per gallon
of water. Unless the plants are very big 5 feet+, then itās safe to use 1
teaspoon per gallon of water. When your plants first emerge you want to wait
at least 2 weeks before feeding your plants, unless your plants are in a soiless
mixture, like pro mix. The cotyledons (its first set of round looking leaves) are
what give the plant its food until they get the first 2 or 3 sets of leaves. If
your plants are in a soiless mixture and are over the first week of age; you can
feed a weak amount of nutrients, like Ā¼ teaspoon per gallon of water. Soiless
mixtures are different from soil plants and soiless plants need to be fed more
when using this mixture.
I also recommend not feeding more than 1 time a week if using Ā½ teaspoon per
gallon of water for chemical nutrients. You can feed every other day,( this
goes for chemical and organics) at very weak amounts, but doing this may contribute
to over watering, and for that I do not recommend feeding more than once a week.
Some people feed 2 times a week using like Ā¼ teaspoon per gallon of waterā¦ Use 1/4
strength for first feeding and then go up to 1/2 strength from the 2nd feeding when
using chemical nutrients. Itās very easy to overdo it. When using organics, depending
on which one youāre using, I recommend using 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. When the
plant gets bigger you can work your way up to using more nutrients when the plants
get bigger.
As for soil mixtures, there are a lot of different kinds of soilās out there. Using a
rich soil mixture is not recommended for seedlings. Seedlings that are under 2
weeks of age you do not want to start them in rich soil, using a seed starter
mixture is one of the safer ways. Seed starter mixtures are weak in nutrients,
so it will not burn the seedlings but will provide them enough to get past seedling
stage, but the downside is you have to transplant into a better soil mixture after 2
weeks of age. If you decide to start with this mixture, do not put your seedlings
into a big pot. Start them out with using a cup or a small pot.
Nutrient Burn causes leaf tips to appear yellow or burnt. They can also be brown
and twisted and crispy looking. Depending on the severity it can show many different
symptoms and shows on lower part of the plant when its young, at older stages it
can move anywhere on the plant. The burn will creep into the center of the leaf
causing it to curl and dry up. It depends on the specific nutrient that is in excess.
For example, too much nitrogen causes leaves to curl downwards and too much potassium
creates brown spots near the edge of the leaf. Either way, nutrient burn may potentially
kill your plant or lead to it having a strong chemical taste.
To fix the problem when you have Nutrient burn, you want to flush out the plants
with lots of water.
Soil
Soil should be flushed with lots of water, Use 3 gallons of water per one gallon of soil.
Flush very thoroughly, after plant recovers usually after a week, you can resume using
nutrients after a week or a week 1/2. When you flush your soil, you flush everything out,
a lot of nutrients go with it, including the soil nutrients.
Hydro `````````````````
Change out the reservoir, flush out any lines and clean out the entire system and
replace with plain water for the first hour, then start out with lower parts per
million (PPM)
Its good to clean out your system every 2 weeks and replace with fresh water and
nutrients. Some people change everything every week!
Ahh, nute burn! Stop this by not adding to much chemical/organic nutrients to your
water,foliar feeding. DONT feed more than 1 time a week unless using weak amount,
use 1/4 strength for first feeding and then go up to 1/2 strength from then on when
using chemical nutrients. Its very easy to overdo it. Causes leaf tips to appear
yellow or burnt. NEVER give nutrients to plants that are under 2 weeks of age, at
this age the soil nutrients are enough to suppliment them untill 2 weeks of age or
more depending on how good your soil is. Using ferts before 2 weeks will almost
likley kill your plants.
All natural amendments
Only water and AACT fed
Thanks
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Could the Kind soil be too strong with the ocean forest in the mix?
I hope not. My last supersoil I used half FFOF as the base soil.
Could be but I donāt think thatās the issue.
Light was too strong is my first guess.
I did add some amendments to the FF of my own but was all slow release natural stuff like oyster shells, worm poo, etc. The one Medi (first pic) is genetics the last one WWX 2 has some yellow leaves in middle but not worried about that.
It was the tips of the new growth mostly on the 4 clones.
It will be interesting to see if the lowering of the lights power cleans it up.
Also could have been cool to leave the lights to see if they adapt or that it is a nute issue.
Iāve been scratching my head looking at your plants. Iām going to say you have nitrogen deficiency. On your list of what you are doing I noticed there was no ph info. What is your watering ph at? Also what is your run off ph at.
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Hi @Skydiver I donāt know squat about growing yet but I did view both of the videos yesterday from Cassandra Maffey you posted. She said donāt panic when your plants have issues. First make sure they have all the basics covered like lighting, temps, watering etc. If no issues are found, then only change 1 variable at a time. It kinda starts at minute 23 of Living Soil Made Simple video. You did exactly what Cassandra recommended starting with the basics where the QBās were cranked at 100%. That may be the issue so she would say to watch the results of lowering the light output before proceeding.
Like I said, I donāt know much about this stuff yet and canāt even get my seeds to germinate worth a damn this yearā¦but I do listen pretty well 
Thanks @shindig153
Iām growing in living soil and also using the Kind soil at the bottom.
I check my Ph going in which is only water no nutrients are used when growing with Kind soil.
Using living soil and natural nutrients one really doesnāt need to do all that crazy stuff that when using chemical nutrients has to like water to run off and then check Ph and PPM etc.
Iām pretty sure itās not nitrogen deficiency as it is mobile and would be on the lower leaves first and move up from there. Also I know there is plenty of nitrogen available in the soil at the top I added plus the kind soil assuming the roots have reached down that far. Also they have been growing (getting bigger) the entire time since repotting them ~ 16 days ago and I have only needed to water them once last Monday.
@DaGoose great video for sure. Yea itās nice when growing in a healthy living soil as things happen good or bad slowly rather than most other growing methods that can go south in an instant (overnight) I wanted to ask others opinions on what I was seeing as itās been noticed now for about a week and I decided to ask a couple days ago about it as I hadnāt experienced that look before.
We shall see what turning the lights down to 50% do for the ones showing the issuesā¦mostly the clones. If you noticed (other than a few leaves on the spine of the main stem) the White Widows show no signs that the other strains do from whatever is causing itā¦lightsā¦excessā¦deficiency of nutes.
Low and slowā¦maybe they will need water todayā¦amazing how well the mulch up top has kept them moist and Iām sure getting roots down and spread out.
Yea my basics are being met with temps humidity etc all are stable
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When I added the straw mulch I was almost bummed as I had that much less to do! Watering is down by at least 30%.
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Nice.
did you add some slow release nitrogen as well with the straw.
Yea mulch works amazingly well for slowing water evaporation and allows the soil to remain cooler and roots will grow closer to the top and the critters that break down the mulch will be working up to. Thatās why you should add some slow release nitrogen up top to feed the critters there. If not when they need nitrogen they will steal it from the plants and cause a deficiency
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