Cool. I had planned on just using it til the end, but wasnt sure if, perhaps, once any real vegetative growth was done, if it would basically be kind of pointless after that, or if it still helps a bit with mold or stress resistance.
The 3-2-1 grams is exactly 80% strength, so Since I’m diluting it down to around 55%-ish when I get down to 1300 EC it’s just a decent starting point rather than the full strength. I mix 3 gals at 9-6-3, and after adding about 2 1/3 more gals of water, I’m at 1300. It’s an ideal amount for topping my res.
Do you flush the last week with Jacks or do you just taper down? In the future I really want to try just not flushing. It has never really made sense to me. I grow all kinds of plants which I consume and “flushing” isn’t a practice for my tomatoes, why is there this idea that nutrients “taint” weed but not the food which also uses those nutrients? But this being my first real grow I’m being democratic and following the consensus of those of you who’ve been there, ya know! Lol
Well I had a bit of what appeared to be N toxicity if you recall, but the underlying reason was my ph had gotten low (shitty pen kept loosing calibration) and as soon as I fixed that, I was fine. Also had what looked to be a slight bit of nute burn and some brown spotting on my leaves, but it was light burn. Only had issues with the top leaves, and when I used the photon app, realized the tops were getting a DLI of, like, 98 or something. Honestly never considered the difference between running autos at 19hrs on vs photos @ 12hrs for flowering meant that autos don’t want the same light intensity of a photo. So as soon as I dimmed my light so I was getting about 50 DLI (45 is ideal) at the canopy, problem gone.
You don’t need to flush, but if you’re reading plants correctly going to ph’d water the last week wouldn’t hurt anything and save a little bit of your fertilizer.
I don’t recall much because of the volume of posts I look at daily, sorry! But as long as you feel you have a handle on things is good end for me.
I have to admit I didn’t read the above replies very closely, but 3+ weeks from now is absolutely within the realm of reality based on those photos. They look like they’re just getting started to me.
They look healthy, and with the feedback from Dbrn, I think you’re in great shape to continue trudging forward.
Congratulations, you’ve officially entered the hardest part - waiting.
So, I’m back to ask for guidance from vets!
I’m at day 83 or 84. Of the two girls, one is close if not ready for chopping. The other isn’t fully ready, but would love to hear what you all think.
Here’s “mature girl”
More developed plants needs a little bit and other plant needs longer. I was just scrolling and seen that these didn’t appear to be in flower on 8/5, and it’s usually a solid 8 weeks of flowering once started. Overall age doesn’t really mean anything as these often stay in veg longer than intended, espn if they are on longer light cycle.
I just find the possibility of hitting the 100 day mark a bit humorous. I’m just really in the dark about what I’m seeing and really would like to know what you all who’ve been there, done that, see.
I don’t really care about “flushing” per se. I’m running jacks in coco. But I would like to give myself an idea of where I’m at. I’m tapering down the nutrients, they are getting 1000 EC, I’m gonna drop to 800 in a few days. But clearly I’m gonna harvest the smaller one first
I see mostly cloudy in the first one, so perhaps a week, and give the other, bigger one to really stretch out for another 7-10 days after?
@dbrn32 can I ask a quick question???.. Discovered a small spot of bud rot in my crop…whats the proper ratio of 3% peroxide to a gallon of water for a spray treatment? Thank you. I’ve done the research and ended up confused. Thanks again
I had a number of ppl tell me that it was a waste of time to start with autos cause they finish too fast. That id be lucky to get an ounce, etc. These seeds very clearly said they would be 4-6 weeks veg, so even going exactly by that, it’s 12-16 weeks total. But still a number of ppl kept insisting I’d end up disappointed after 65-70 days.
The issues with autos isn’t typically when they finish but when they go into flower. Some will just start throwing pistils around 3-4 weeks old, and in the typical potted soil grow they are not very big at this point. Some have recessive ruderalis genes and won’t flower at all unless moved to short day type of light schedule. Therefore the best summary would be to simply say it’s hard to be sure of what you get.
It makes way more sense to just buy photos. If you need fast time to finish flip them at maturity, this is about the same timeline as normal behaving auto anyway. But if you wany larger plant or run into issues you alway have the option to veg the plants out indefinitely if you want.
Thank you @dbrn32 …what would you recommend to treat bud rot ? Another question…reg. photoperiod seeds…how old should they be before flip for sexing purposes? I’m thinking 45 days but will they sex at 30 days?
I have always just cut the rot out and tossed it. If I see it coming in will try to keep plants dry, air moving over them, and get to harvest as quickly as reasonable. I don’t really know of anyway to treat it, sorry.
Photo seeds won’t flower until they are mature no matter what the light schedule is, this is typically +/- 30 days, so it doesn’t make any sense to flip prior to this. Anytime after this is acceptable it just becomes a choice of how large of plants each grower wants to take into flower.
Hi Nicky
Dont know how to tag ppl in the forum so im gonna try this…
Need some serious resirch materials and have several of your posts .
I tried my first run in a long time recently ans feel as though i have failed miserably ill explain more if i hear back …
TY… Brotherman 074
several of your posts .