First grow problems


#1

Strain; White Widow

Soil: CANNA Terra Proffesional 60% combined with coco.

PH : Only today i haved buyed a Ph Meter ( i’m pretty shure the problem is from PH )

What is strength of nutrient mix: I’m using the flower power nutrients and now i give them 0,75gr per litter.

Indoor

Light system: 600w HPS

Temps; Day23~25, Night 19~21

Humidity; Day 37-60 Night N/A

Ventilation system; Yes… Don’t know what type

The plants are more than 2 months old starting from seedling

Co2; No

Now that i will be able to manage the PH, i wonder … how long should i wait until i put them into flower ?
It’s allright if i put them now even if they are not healthy ?

Any advice would be apreciated.
Thanks


#2


#3

No you don’t want to put them into flower just yet …you want to give them time to recoup and get back on track… once they’re back on track you will notice explosive growth , once that’s happening then you can decide how much space you have to work with and when the right time will be to throw them into flower… but at this point you don’t want to take an unhealthy plant and try and throw it into flower because that’s when it needs to be its healthiest …when going into flower is when you’re going to see extremely explosive growth and you would want a healthy plant to do that with… because a sick plant might go down hill right off the bat once you flip to 12/12…

:v::sunglasses:


#4

I think you basically have self diagnosed the problem, its definitely ph. If you haven’t been ph’ing your nutrient/water solution then its thrown the root zone ph way out of whack. I remember before flower power they had the MJ Booster, I used that and it brought the solutions ph down to 4.5, that is super acidic and if the flower power is anything like that, you got some big ph problems.
You need to do a full flush with plain water ph’ed to 6.5
however big your pots are, you need to flush with 3x the amount of water. For example if you have 5 gal pots, you need to flush with 15gal of plain ph’ed water. That will correct your ph problem and after not long they will begin to look better. After that, don’t water them again until soil is almost completely dry.


#5

Canna is soil less [quote=“Voltaj, post:1, topic:8469”]
CANNA Terra Proffesiona
[/quote]
and Coco this is a pure soil less mix ph levels should be closer to 5.5-6.2 and yes the problem certainly appears to be ph because each plant is showing different symptoms



I agree with your flush @BondPacker just not the target ph


#6

Canna coco is soil less, but Canna terra-pro is not. It is a soil medium that comes pre mixed with about 10% perlite, I’ve been growing in it for a couple years now

Only just read up and saw that he’s combining it with coco also, my bad. But it looks like he’s still using 60% canna terra pro so that is still a 60% soil medium


#7

http://www.cannagardening.com/terra_professional_plus
just did my homework on Canna terra Peat moss and bark in place of perilite for aeration. Much like promix or Sunshine mix no mention of manure worm castings leaf mulch or organic compost though the bark may fit the catagory? so I very well could be mistaken and may be real soil? a quote that makes me think soil less: Exclusive, high grade ingredients such as airy peat moss and different types of tree bark (as a substitute for perlite) are components of CANNA Terra Professional Plus. They have an antiseptic effect and increase aeration qualities. This has a direct result in promoting exceptional root development and formation of thicker stems.
If you use it regularily I will digress to your experience with it :slight_smile:


#8

Id trust your experience over mine anyday thats for sure my friend. The link you provided is the canna-terra professional plus, which is the similar soil but I think, not completely sure but i think is the 100% organic version, with no added nutrients at all. Canna-terra pro is a different mix, and for some reason I cant find it on their site which seems strange. The soil in question here, and the one I use has added nutrients along with the peat moss and tree bark and whatever else is in it. If going by the look of the medium, if its not soil, then I have no idea what could be classed as soil :joy: as it looks like a pure soil medium with a bit of perlite mixed in


#9

If you have been using it a long time at soil ph with good results stick to your guns I felt same way with promix and now find my best results were result of rootzone ph being 6-6.3 as it degraded after about 2 months growing by end of grows my run offs were around 5.8 just through peat degrading over time?
Don’t change what works for you but never really hurts to tweak things a little and Canna pro is same just without added goodies like the promix ap premium + is simply stating we added some shit to make you pay more :wink:


#10

Most pure soil mediums are home made black earth compost sand worm castings custom mix my dad does the black gold sunshine #4 blends it gets confusing as hell but most mixes 60-70% peat are soil less by the time they add in perilite vermiculite very little is left for it to be soil/dirt


#11

My runoff is staying between 5.8-6 and it is probably because of what you said, the peat moss degrading which i didn’t think of. Ive been feeding at 6.5-6.8, but I’m just going to stick with 6.5 now and not worry about the slightly low runoff. Everything’s healthy so not much point changing it.
Heres the canna terra pro soil link http://www.canna.com.au/terra_professional


#12

Back to reason I commented I am not saying flush ph is wrong but stop point should be closer to the 6 ph run off and future watering 6.5
Too drastic ph swing actually will cause plant even more stress if the ph is super low or high


#13

Very true and I hadn’t thought of it like that before. I still wouldn’t treat it as a completely soil less medium but what your saying makes a lot of sense, can’t really treat it as a full soil medium either as it definitely isn’t.


#14

Yep well said! @Voltaj theres your best answer :raised_hands:


#15

Likewise I think I had this debate with promix too since I had good results keep in mind what we put into plants isn’t what their roots live in which is why checking run off makes big difference we can adjust future watering to slightly raise or lower ph as needed easy indoors where you don’t have to pack shit :wink:


#16

Debates like this are good cause they certainly open up new ideas, and good valid points are made for all to read. I certainly don’t mind learning thats for sure!
And yes, the whole process would be much easier indoors, but for now I’m stuck with what I’ve got. Its good exercise i guess? :sweat_smile:


#17

My plants would live about 3 minutes outside this time of year and within first min most of my leaves would be frost bit and I bust my arse roofing during the summer so by the end of the day taking another 50lbs on my shoulders for a walk pales to raising a glass in my lawn chair watching my dogs play in the yard. More often than not I either eat and pass out on couch or stair blindly at my computer until the misses is ready for bed.


#18

We don’t get first here in the winters but the summers are scorching! Ive been on holidays but back to work monday, thats when it all becomes hard again. After a big day on the tools the last thing i feel like doing is lugging out 30L in 35 degree heat, but thats what I get for having this as a hobby I guess :joy: Most of the time I still raise a glass, just do it while sweating my ass out walking out the bush lol


#19

The 30’s is everyday all summer on a roof and this year I plan on a garden or atleast starting it
this is what I do all summer


as well as shingles and tin roofs for friends family and extra cash jobs on my weekends the video doesn’t tear off or recovery board install just the last steps but let me tell you kneeling around on a black shiny surface sucks bobo


#20

Now that looks like some seriously hot work… Thankfully the only work I do on roofs is the trusses… On a 30 degree day it’d feel like 45 up there, no wonder you raise a glass at the end of each day!