I’m saying pretty much the thing there CountryBoy
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From reading the ingreients I thought it mite be to hot
sorry abut the spelling…lol
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@Countryboyjvd1971 @garrigan62 Thanks for stepping in on this, really appreciate it. I was able to get some photos before heading to the club.
I will check back in about 8 or 9 hours when I return home.
Again, thanks guys, big help as always.
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I wouldn’t change much they look pretty healthy the new growth may actually be more of a starting to get hungry burn than nute burn
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Thanks for that summary. That is awesome to follow. And great job keep up the good work.
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Yellow Leaf Tips Update:
@Donaldj @Countryboyjvd1971 @neckNflu @ReMoLu
Closer inspection has revealed that the three tallest Gold Leaf plants all exhibit the same yellow leaf tips. One of them got a half dose of FF nutes a few days ago.
Only the top most growth on each plant is affected. Neither of the shorter White Widow plants have any yellowing of the leaves. One received nutes and other did not.
After researching and reading, I decided to just raise the lights a few inches (from 26" to 30") and watch them for a week. If the yellowing gets persists then I will consider some more aggressive remedies. I have been somewhat resistant to raising the lights too much because most of the problems seem to result from too little light rather than too much light. Canopy temperature is consistently 70 - 73 F (a bit low IMO) during lights on and about 60 F when lights are off.
There seems to be some debate as to whether or not plants can experience actual light burn under LED’s. In any event I will just watch for now.
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I think that’s a logical next step to take personally. Raising those lights even if it doesn’t help the yellowing that will be at least one more thing you can remove from trying to figure out what’s causing the little leaf tip issues. Thank you for posting I’ll be following to see and watch what you find out.
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plants can get light burn under any light
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Thanks @Donaldj that is the assumption that I am making as my plants seem to exhibit light burn symptoms even though all they ever seen was LED produced light.
I’ve found a lot of your yeild is down to the space you have for your plants
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Looking great my brother, I’ll keep track of your thread
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Day 40 (since sprouting)
I will be away for a couple of days this week, when I return my plants will be six weeks old. At what point are the plants considered to be in “veg” mode?
I am figuring out when to flip to “flowering”. Some reading has revealed to me that folks flip any time from 4 or 5 weeks in veg to 8 weeks in veg. I don’t know when I start counting time as in veg…
@Countryboyjvd1971 @garrigan62 @Donaldj @Myfriendis410 @bige @ReMoLu @Flyr @raustin @niala @daz49
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A couple of weeks from sprout is a good start point for veg. I generally go by height and not time in soil.
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@Myfriendis410 my White Widows are about 9" tall and the Gold Leafs are about 13" tall. I will need to flip them all at once because I am not yet setup for multiple grow areas (a work in progress).
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I agree with with @Myfriendis410
A few weeks after sprout I usually consider first two weeks sprout/seedling weeks then I start counting veg weeks
I really just go by size of plant and flower when i get to about half of the size i want at end of flower cycle so i will flower around 18 inches to keep plants below 5 foot mark the tend to stay between 4-5 foot tall 
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@Countryboyjvd1971 @Myfriendis410 That means that I am about a week or two from flipping…Thx for the excellent advice.
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This is quit long but it’s what you asked for and I hope it helps you. You can copy and paste it to your files for future reference.
During propagation, your plants developed a small root system and gained their first new true set of leaves. Next, they need to build sufficient structure both in the root and aerial environment to support your target yields.
To get a fair yield in return for your efforts and expense, you need to be able to fill the growing environment you created with as many budding sites as possible while still providing strong light in all areas to support dense yields of high quality medicinal cannabis.
Give your freshly propagated plants 5-10 days in a transitional phase between propagation and full-on vegetative growth conditions. This helps them get acclimated to more intensive growing conditions.
After a successful pre-veg phase, increasing lighting and air movement for full-on veg will garner explosive growth rather than making your plants stressed or sickly. Focus on developing roots and getting the leaves used to the drier, quicker moving air.
If you grow in soilless mix and have rooted starter plugs, something the size of a plastic beer cup is the perfect size for this stage. Too big a container and it will stay too wet before it needs watering again. Water logged roots will stifle growth, or worse.
Vegetative Phase of Growth
You will want to know how much more you can expect your cannabis plants to grow in height after you trigger the budding cycle (aka the stretch). This is often expressed as a percentage (+100%) or as a proportion. This information is super important, because it will let you know how big the plants should be before you switch to bud in order for your grow room to fill nicely based on your plant count and spacing.
“If you have higher plant numbers in the same area, it won’t take as much time to fill out the space later in bud, so less time would be required in veg.”
If you have higher plant numbers in the same area, it won’t take as much time to fill out the space later in bud, so less time would be required in veg.
The opposite would be true for a smaller number of plants in the same space: more veg time is required for them to get big enough to fill the space.
The reason you’ll want to know your strain is that different genetics will behave differently in terms of how much they will stretch before the budding sites start to fill out into large sticky colas. You don’t want to run out of space, or plants will get burned growing too close to the lights. Conversely, if they don’t fill out the garden area by the time buds start to swell, you run the risk of having a lower yield. It can take a while to learn a strain, and how to grow it for the optimum yield and quality.
Indica strains tend to not grow too much after changing the light cycle to stimulate bud production — +25% would be the average. Most Sativas recommended for growing indoor under lights can grow +150%. Hybrids can have traits anywhere in between. Some of the more rare and exotic strains can reach heights of six feet tall from plants grown from seed that were only eight inches tall when budding was initiated. However, this is not the normal selection or strain type most indoor growers will attempt.
Your environment will also have an influence on growth rates after budding starts, and therefore will have bearing on your time in the vegetative growth phase. Higher humidity levels tend to make plants stretch more, for example, as do lower light intensities. Conversely a strong flow of air across the tops of plants will help keep them shorter and bushier; a good trait for growing indoors with vertical limitations.
Tips To Consider During The Vegetative Phase Of Growth
As you should have noticed by now, there is more to vegetative growth than just meeting the right environmental factors. The process is a very important tool in managing how much biomass will be in your garden for the number of plants you are working with.
For vegetative growth, here are some fundamental rules that you can adapt to your own growing style, set-up and strain selection:
•Light Cycle: as long as the plants receive no more than 10 to 12 hours of uninterrupted darkness they will remain in the vegetative growth phase, with the exception of auto-flowering strains. Some growers maintain a constant 24/7 lights on period, while others prefer a 18 hours ON and 6 hours OFF in order to let the room cool down. Full spectrum lighting is recommended for veg.
•Temperature: Usually 75°-85° F when the lights are ON and 70°-75° F when the lights are OFF is optimal.
•Relative Humidity (RH): anywhere from 45 to 75% is fine. Be careeful it doesn’t get excessively high in the dark cycle with cooler temperatures.
•Air Flow: Having a steady breeze blowing through the plant canopy is important. Start off gentle when plants are young and increase velocity as plants get established.
•CO2: Carbon dioxide is fuel for plant growth. When plants are smaller, GreenPadCO2 or other easy safe and affordable sources can give a great boost in any garden. Large-scale gardens will need a tank or CO2 burner.
Following these guidelines should get your plants charging forward fast and strong towards building the structure needed for the medical marijuana yield of your dreams. There is still much to do along the way to help ensure success and a bountiful harvest of quality buds, and we will discuss them in more detail next time you check back for the latest installment in our series about home-cultivation.
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This is perfect @garrigan62, I will study it a bit later to insure that I fully understand. Thank you!
Update After Reading:
This really is exactly what I needed @garrigan62, thanks again!