First Auto Grow - Blueberry

I am going to start a new grow and trying to get some Blueberry Auto to grow for me. I have started the seeds in water and two of the three popped and the other looks like it is cracking. I soaked them in water for 24 hours then moved them to wet paper towels.

48 hours later the two that popped had 3/4" tap roots so I planted them in Jiffy Organic Starter soil. I also planted the other hoping that it would pop in the soil and I could keep them growing together. They are under a 18" fluorescent tube, 6K, until they get started well.

I will put all my grow specifics in the next entry. Am excited to get going ! !

Gerry

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Thanks for the heads up. I cannot wait to see how it goes. :slight_smile:

Hey Txt. I see you got started on your new grow…sweet!
I look forward to following your grow
Best of luck.

B Safe
Will

I have a new blueberry and a bubble gum they are about 8 in. Tall I will put in my grow cab next week. I’m really looking to try the blueberry. It’s not auto but from now on I will use autos.
Tom

My only problem with Blueberry is, even the fem is tall. They do, however, have an awesome yield. I was thinking about trying to manifold a blueberry but will have to research it more. Would be an ambitious project for a 2x4x5 foot grow tent ! !

Blueberry is a very soothing and smooth high. I love it, it makes me forget about problems and relax. Am trying to get off pain meds and all the other medicine that doctors want me to take. I think these plants may be my relief from prescription meds.

Gerry

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Well Jerry, We all hope so too! :slight_smile:

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Is growing auto’s the same as feminized plants due to having to make a switch on the light cycle , but my question of concern is giving nutrients to an auto ?

yoshi Auto’s do not require a photoperiod to grow. They automatically start flowering when they are ready to! I am fairly new at autos (my first grow) but have done tons of research on autos and the things that stand out on growing autos are: no flowering light change and NO NUTES for the first two to three weeks. One veg feeding and then start on flowering nutes. The main take away point for AUTOS is to NOT cause any type of delay in the growing. They only live for 8-9 weeks then their life cycle is done. No trimming, only LST (Low Stress Training). Watch the leave tips for Nute Burn and back off the nutes ASAP at the first signs of stress on the plant. Start at 1/4 strength and work up slowly to 1/2 strength. Remember the number one rule - DO NOT STRESS THE PLANT ! !

Another thing in growing Autos that is different is that you need to grow them in the pot you germinate them in, autos do NOT like transplanting as it causes stress on the plant. The life cycle is so short that any delay in growing or stress on the plant will cause a decrease in yield. Alternatively, I planted my seeds in 2 1/2 inch peat pots with organic soil starter. When they get ready to grow, I place the entire pot in the growing pot (I use 5 gallon to allow maximum growing with minimal stress on the plants). This should cut down on the stress the plant goes through. Several experienced autoflower growers have used this technique with no problems at all. There is a really nice site developed for autoflowers only called The Autoflower Network. I think it is worth the time to visit it.

I am far from and expert on Autos, but this might help get you started. Everything else on autos is essentially the same as regular and Fem as far as checking the pH of water and soil and all else in growing them.

Check out The Autoflower Network for good stuff on growing Autos.

Good luck on your grow.

Gerry
TxGrowman

Awesome Txgrowman , well I knew not to transplant nor prune the plant because of life cycle and stress. But the feeding was important and you provided great Intel , only one veg feeding at a quarter strength at 4 weeks , than go into flowering nutrients . Most important aspect of auto’s , is not to stress the plant . Well I ordered 10 seeds of blue auto & amenisa haze auto for a winter grow , since they have a shorter life span , it would be best for as temperatures inside a grow tent during colder climates .

Not sure you got a chance to look at the Autoflower Network but a couple of other tips that I have picked up off Autoflower Network.
LIGHTING: 20/4 is the recommended light cycle for Autos. 12/12 and 18/6 will work but optimum production and yield is at 20/4.
NUTES: See Rule # 1. Some Auto’s will live as long as 12 weeks but the majority are 7-9 weeks, germination to drying room. The longer ones (and some of the shorter lived autos) may need more strength in nutes, up to full strength. Take the concentration up very slowly and during Veg and watch for burn on the leave tips. As soon as you see it, stop nutes and use pH’d water. If you did not catch it in time, Flush and start again. Remember that flushing is a violation of Rule #1 and it will decrease the yield but may be your only choice. Better yet, keep the levels low and increase only when you are sure you can. I just had two more seeds pop and now 4/5 have sprouted. Hope I get the other one sprouted soon.

Sorry for the long windedness but I used to teach college and I get in that mode some times. Absolutely LOVE to teach but cannot any more.

Good luck with your grow.

Gerry

Awesome brother by the way I’m at teacher as well , but I did see where 20/4 was the optimum lighting or 24 , considering you would rather give them a off period . I have advance led lighting XTE 200 in a 2x2x5 tent so not much space , but I have grown 5 plants total in that tent using a lot of pruning and training , which I main line a bag seed plant after stressing it so much , but over all it did well . But now I’m considering auto flowers because I think with that much space I can keep a 2 month cycle of good quality organic smoke available for my sibling to help her in her endeavors with cancer . So yes Txgrowman , I’ll definitely be in touch , and I will document my first auto grow just to share for some who wants to experience an auto grow . For as nutrients , I have The Recipe for Success technaflora line , which can be a great option for all beginners , and I have the fox farm trio which I find very concentrated that I have not found the formula just yet without burning them , and I have ILGM nutrients which I strongly recommend that is great stuff , and I just bought the advance nutrient line Sensi Bloom part A & B with Big Bud , have not received the others yet from Amazon they are in the mail B-52 , overdrive , Connisuer A & B Grow & Bloom , Voodoo Juice , piranha , final phase , nirvana , Sensi zym , and tarantula . I also have molasses and cal-mag , but I’m experiencing the formula that gives better over quality than volume or yield . I believe during the winter months auto’s would be a better choice to grow until next spring . At some point with advance nutrients , I would like to try a hydro grow , but I have no experience at all with hydro , and I figure I’ll be spending on more gadgets to grow a hydro reservoir harvest . But for now just soil , and trying to keep a steady stash for her that has a very great taste and THC & CBD .

I hear dutchmaster gold line nutrients is also a great choice for nutrients , but I’ve have yet to try it .

I’m excited to run a grow on the blueberry and Amenisa haze auto . Think I’m gone try one of each the first go and see how things turn out , than used that Intel for the other four seeds of each .

All right. . . here goes.
My grow plan is as follows: Yield Labs 2x4x5 grow tent; Mars Reflector series 432 watt LED (actual draw is 300 watts);
Soil grow (Black Gold general purpose premium potting soil, Black Gold Perlite, Peat Moss, Coco Coir, Earthworm castings, Expanded shale, Magnesium salts, Dolomite Lime, Phosphorous Bat Guano [help the roots start out], Mycorrhiaze and Bio Ag Bacterial inoculants.
Nutes: Alaska fish fertilizer (5-1-1) and Alaska Morbloom (0-10-10), Big Up bud hardener (0-33-23), Humic Acid and Humboldt Honey.
pH Water to keep the pH at 5.8 - 6.3. I just got a new pH meter and a PPM meter from Harris.
My first real experiment with Coco Coir. Love the way it aerated the soil. An 11 lb bag did all the five 5-gallon mixes and I spread a lot out in my veggie garden. I flushed the coco before planting as I was told it was too acidic to grow plants before flushing.
Well, that’s my grow in a nut shell. Hope it works out like I planned, I put a lot of research into the grow. Nothing else to do when you are house bound!

Good Luck and Great Buds.

Jerry

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@TxGrowman,

Coco Coir often has tons of sea salt in it because of the way it is harvested from coconuts near the ocean. So it has a lot of sodium chloride and this is usually the reason for a really good flush as the sodium is not good for cannabis.

Good luck!

~MacG

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Put a layer of river rock on top as well .

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I stand corrected. Thanks for the input, I want to be as accurate as possible (left over from my teaching days ! LOL)

Jerry

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Yeah always flush your coco at least 4-5 times to give it a good rinse .

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I have a question for anyone that has Auto experience. I added a new twist to my seedlings and put them under the 42watt fluorescent lamps. I used my LED on the seedlings last grow and almost cooked them. How long should I leave them under it before going to LED? Hope I am doing right, my first auto grow but I have not used the fluorescent lamps before. I do not want to stunt them at all.
Thanks
Jerry

From my understanding wait until they have 4-5 true set of leaves to give more light intensity . Same as feeding , you should only feed one time in veg right at the forth or fifth week from the first set of leaves , once you feed increase light .