Auto flowering feminized blue dream. 7 and a half weeks into flowering, a foliar feeding of Epsom salt yesterday before lights out because I think it’s a MAG deficiency.
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If you would fill out this support ticket and be as complete as possible. What soil, what water, how you ph, what you ph to, what nutes, what lights etc. It looks like N but in flower deficiencies will start to happen which you want.
It’s as basic as I could get, most of those questions would of been N/A but I’m growing in soil mixed with worm casting potting soil in a five gallon bucket. 600w MH for vegging and 600w HPS for flower, all of my notes are homemade and natural banana peel, urine, and bone meal. those are the main three ingredient there’s also other things like molasses and vinegar I use so there’s a diverse selection of bacteria and minerals. Nothing’s really on a schedule I’ll let the plant tell me what it needs I’m growing in a closet in the garage so it gets plenty of CO2 from Outdoors although maybe not as much as it would if it was Outdoors but close enough. Stays around 29 or 30 Celsius in the daytime and 20 or 21 at night, humidity never goes over 45 usually hovers around 35. I feed twice water once. Any other questions just ask and I’ll tell you just really need to figure out what kind of deficiency this is hoping it is a deficiency and not a pH imbalance
I know I’m forgetting a bunch. I need to smoke…
It’s the foliar feed doesn’t look like mildew and actually they just look to be P def not Mag which isn’t such a bad thing easy to fix with a PK booster. Phosphorus is in high demand during flower
I didn’t think you would be up so early today? How was that frigid sunrise? Lol…jk
Looks like residues left from foliar feeding. Use some ph’d water with a drop or two of soap to clean off. I do see some P deficiency.
After 7 am and training myself back into early mornings for my work season by now I will have been up 3 hrs and be at work already for over 40 min So not early just getting back onto normal routine
Okay, so my bone meal is literally bone that has been grinded into a powder and put in with the feeding, maybe it’s still not breaking down fast enough forthe plant to take it in. I’ll be looking in to making my P doses larger. That does make sense the larger my buds get the more the deficiency is noticeable. Any quick fixes? Money is an issue on this project. Thank you
Maybe I should boil the bone meal into a litre of water until it’s completely dissolved. I’m really experimental but this issue is making me scratch my head a little more than usual.
most quick fixes are chemical nutrients or purchases or like bonemeal are meant to be mixed into soil and break down through grow there likely are ferments which may help but they take time to make too? Microbes like Mammoth-P are used quite often to breakdown P to more plant viable form but also big expense
After doing a little more research. I believe it’s simply a N deficiency, soft yellow leaves at the bottom eventually turning brown and falling off by their self being only in the bottom leaves and if anybody’s ever grown blue dream it’s very thirsty for nitrogen its whole life. I just never grown Autos before this is my first. Thanks for all the help I will be keeping this post updated, because I could be wrong!
No quick fixes in soil. Leaves that are damaged are already gone, and you must monitor new growth.
Before I get into this too deep, I must ask; What did you spray on the leaves to make them so shiny? It looks to me like spray damage but, since you attempted to build a soil; It is hard to tell immediately how to fix this.
I look forward to you answer.
Also; I am legally blind, so if you do not use my “Support Ticket” correctly and j8ust jumble the info into one large paragraph…You are not helping me to help you.
If you follow our guidelines and fill out the ticket, it would be easier for all members and staff to help you in a more informed way.
That’s what I’m thinking I have some of the same looking spit’s on my very bottom leaves that I know have been splashed with nutrient feedings
You very well may need a touch more N in the feedings, but the purpling stems that I saw are P deficiency. You still need to wash off the leaves from the foliar feeding of Epson Salt. It’s reflecting some of the light on those leaves.
Strain; sativa dominant feminized blue dream autoflowering
Soil in pots, YES
System type? N/A
PH of runoff or solution in reservoir? N/A
What is strength of nutrient mix? HOMEMADE
Indoor or Outdoor, INDOOR
Light system, size? 600W MH/HPS
Temps; Day, 30C° Night 21C°
Ventilation system; RESIDENTIAL FAN (OSCILLATING)
AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier, NO
Co2; Yes, OUTSIDE UTILITY SHED GETS PRETTY GOOD CO2 INTAKE
BINGO there @FloridaSon
That’s the first thing that came to me when I saw the pics.
What causes White Powdery Mildew?
WPM needs moisture to thrive, but that doesn’t necessarily mean it needs water. Having a grow area with high humidity is all WPM needs to grow. This seems to be a bit problematic since young cannabis plants grow best in relatively humid environments (40% -60% RH). Luckily, high humidity usually only becomes an issue when it’s combined with the next cause (low/no airflow).
People who live in environments with extremely high humidity (such as Florida and the UK) can purchase a dehumidifier to control humidity in the grow area. This is especially important during the flowering phase when humidity needs to be much lower (45% rh) to prevent rampant growth of WPM and bud mold.
White Powdery Mildew has a hard time settling in a grow room where the air is being moved. High humidity will give WPM the conditions it needs to survive, but poor airflow is what gives it the ability to settle down in the first place. In fact, a small (preferably oscillating) fan moving air in a grow area will prevent the vast majority of White Powdery Mildew woes.
If you have WPM spores in your grow area and the air in grow area is never exchanged for fresh air, the spores get multiple chances to land on your plants and reproduce. This happens most often in conditions where cannabis is being grown in a closed, unventilated space - such as a closet - and precautions aren’t taken to exchange old stale air for new fresh air.
Leaf to leaf contact = moisture = White Powdery Mildew!Leaves that are touching each other will form moisture between them, and thus they become more likely to contract WPM. Untrained bushy/leafy plants with lots of new vegetative growth are especially prone since plants will often have leaves mashed up against each other as they try to reach the light.
Advanced growers can defoliate some of the fan leaves that are completely shaded from the grow light to make fewer choice landing spots for White Powdery Mildew. Also, defoliation frees up energy for the plant to use when done correctly and increases yields! See our article on defoliation for more info.
White powdery mold on the stem of an outdoor plant - White powdery mold can grow nearly anywhere on the plant that’s exposed to air.
How to Eliminate White Powdery Mildew
As I mentioned earlier, I recently had a battle with White Powdery Mildew. Rather, it might have been a battle if I noticed it later or waited to fix the problem. That’s the one good thing about WPM: in most cases when WPM is caught early, you can remove all traces of the mildew without harming your plants.
There are quite a few products and homemade concoctions people use to treat WPM. Among the effective treatments are:
Milk (1:9 ratio of milk to water)
Baking soda (2 tablespoons per gallon of water)
Neem Oil (4 teaspoons per gallon of water)
Hydrogen Peroxide (1 teaspoon per gallon of 35% H202)
SM-90 (1:5 ratio of SM-90 to water)
Rather than go into these methods, I’m going to give you the simple strategy I use that gets rid of White Powdery Mildew on the first try, every time! Here’s my trusted 3-Step White Powdery Mold cure:
1.White Powdery Mold: Ruiner of beautiful plants.Remove White Powdery Mildew from leaves - Get some water (tap water works fine) and some paper towels. Wet the paper towels and use them to gently wipe the mildew off the affected leaves whilst being careful not to jostle any leaves with spores on them. Using a wet cloth will ensure that more spores stick to the cloth instead of becoming airborne. Note: While it isn’t necessary to use paper towels, their disposability helps to curb the spread of spores from one leaf to another.
2.Ensure plants have proper airflow and ventilation - Even if you have absolutely no airflow or ventilation in your grow room, having even two fans will drastically reduce your chances of encountering WPM while also benefitting your plants overall health. One fan should be oscillating if possible and should gently blow air over your plants. All the plants need is enough air to gently rustle their leaves. The second fan should be in your grow room pointing outward, pulling heat away from your plants (only needed if you have no ventilation). Having a fan pointing out of your grow room will force old air out of the room, and in turn, pull new air into the room. At this point, you’ll have new air coming in, being used and circulated, then kicked out. Keep in mind that two fans is a minimum.
3.Treat plant with SM90 to kill spores prevent future growth - Mix 1 part SM90 to 5 parts water(I’ve found 7 parts water to be equally effective) in a clean sprayer/mister. Wait until just before your lights for off for the day and mist your (newly cleaned) plants. Get all the leaves! This diluted SM90 mixed will kill any spores it touches, and anywhere it lands becomes uninhabitable for future spores. Plus, it’s safe to use - even during flowering - and it smells awesome.
There you have it. If you end up running into White Powdery Mildew, give this advice a shot and you won’t have to deal with it past that first day. If you do end up using these steps, feel free to let us know if it helped you or not, or how you did it differently. When growers know just a little bit about this disease, it doesn’t have a chance!
Don’t have wpm
Will keep all that in mind if I do happen to get it, the foliar feeding spots on the leaf aren’t the problem. It’s the yellow spots on the leaf that’s some sort of deficiency.