# DWC Purple Haze

That’s great to know. Thanks a million for you input. One thing I can say for sure, they’re acting like I never even touched them yesterday.

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Been stripping half a 5 gallon bucket worth a week from 2 plants since last week of 18/6. Hasn’t stopped my plants from going straight to light. I didn’t get in tent last night, but I’m expecting a mess when I open it tonight. Wouldn’t even consider the space dialed in, but seems to be close enough.

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I am trying out a different transition schedule on my current flower run, and I will also be trying out a modified nutrient schedule for the majority of the bloom phase.

Noting that JR Peters recommends a 1-3-2 NPK ratio for transition in their feeding schedule, I decided to mess with my ratios to accomodate a similar ratio. I use the GG Boost formula instead of the Jacks 3-2-1 formula for most of my grow, and have two grows completed using that formula. I want to see if I can affect bud structure/density at all with different nutrient ratios, so I am messing around.

In any case, for this particular run, I have my reservoir set to the following:

Nutrient Weight (g/gal)
Part A 0.8
Part B 1.6
Epsom Salts 1.6
MKP 1.6

That gives me a PPM of around 700 with my water and it gives me the following NPK ratio:

Total Nitrogen Total Phosphorous Total Potassium
9.0 23.2 18.8

That reduces to essentially a 2-5-4 ratio. Last grow I went heavier on the potassium and I think it caused issues.

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OK, So I calculate a little different, and maybe not the right way, but I wanted to see how each part would calculate according to my tap water.

I ran a gal test on each part to see what total ppm’s I would get.

1 gal / Tap water: 67 ppm’s
Part A at 3.69g/gal = 574 ppm’s (excluding tap water ppm’s)
Part B at 2.44g/gal = 383 ppm’s (excluding tap water ppm’s)
Epson Salt at 1.0g/gal = 115 ppm’s (excluding tap water ppm’s)

For a total of 1139 ppm’s

Mixed together:

1 gal of tap water: 67 ppm’s
Part A: at 3.69g/gal = 574 ppm’s
Part B: at 2.44g/gal =312 ppm’s
Epson Salt: at 1.0g/gal = 87 ppm’s

For a total of 1040 ppm’s

I noticed as I mix all three together, the final results ended up less than mixing them separately, which tells me maybe, the nutes react differently when mixed together?

Needless to say, I’ve been having some issues with both plants showing slight signs of nute problems. Granted, both plants are totally opposite from each other. Both were exhibiting signs of too much nutes and or nitrogen toxicity while mixed at a 321 ratio.

Purple Kush (Kushie), had signs of nute burn, (tips turning yellow on new growth), along with nitrogen toxicity, (leaf tips at random curling, dark green leaves, red stems, etc.…).

Purple Hazed (Hazie) had nitrogen toxicity (leaf tips at random curling, dark green leaves, red stems, etc.…) but no nute burn. PPM’s were running 940 ish.

So, between the two of them, high nutes and slight toxic problems in one way or another, lead me to believe I needed to reduce the levels of nitrogen and the levels of nutes.

I started to reduce part B because it contains more nitrogen but instead opted for the formula suggested above since it basically did what I thought needed to be done, just in a different way.

Calculating the nutes aiming for a PPM of 700 ish. That would put me in the ballpark near the desired results thus, lowering toxic level and nutes as well.

Mixing at a 2.5.4 ratio cutting this formula in half, put me right at 730 ppm’s

I flipped the lights to 12/12 Friday 7-17-20. So far so good.
THEY ARE GOING ABSOLUTELY NUTS!!

They were drinking 2 gals every 3 days.
Since Friday, (2 days), they’ve drank 2 ½ gals of water and have grown like crazy.

Temps in the grow room, lights on: 80-84 deg. and lights off: 75-78 deg.
Humidity in the grow room, lights on: 47-53% and lights off 55-62%

I run a dehumidifier in the adjacent room where I draw the air for the grow room when the lights are out which does help some but I can’t seem to get the humidity lower than 60% when the lights are out.

This has been a brutal summer so far (humidity wise). House on the inside can hardly get below 60%

Do you think I’ll have problem at 60% with the buds??

Week apart pictures.
7-11

7-19

7-11

7-19

7-11

7-19

7-11

7-19

Please, if you have differing opinions, beliefs, or facts please share. Thanks!

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Are you managing your VPD for peak transpiration? That could play a role in uptake. I know you have gucci lights and that’s the other leg of the tripod.

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@Myfriendis410 are you cussing me??
Whatchu talkin bout Willis?

Obviously not! … lol
Any suggestions on how to do so?
Would increasing the air across the plants help. I actually cut the fan up a notch after I watered this morning.

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I found the VDP chart but no clue yet how to go about getting were it says I need to be.

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Pick a good one specific to weed and just try to keep your environment between the lines haha. That may help (or hurt) your nutrient reaction but Jack’s seems to be very well tolerated at high TDS even when seedlings: I was told 900 ppm from the beginning.

Maybe think about some minor ‘changeups’ in your grow space: bring light down a bit more maybe; things like that.

Hitting your VPD nominal is tough and I find I sine wave the conditions daily but I think that’s not necessarily bad thing.

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@Covertgrower how did you find it was .03 per gallon to use jacks?
If I figured it correct, Flora flex is about 16 per pound. You use between 1-5 teaspoons per 5 gallons of each of the 4 parts. (Veg1 and 2, bloom1 and 2.) so I think, (again not sure if I did the math right) 6 tsp per ounce, and 16 ounces per pound, using an average of 3tsp per 5 gallons, is that about .25 a feeding? Or am I off on my math?

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60% Rh at night is fine there will be no issues during flower first 4 weeks you want the Rh to cap at 65-68% lights out lights on you shoot for 62-65 Rh temp at 85 is fine for now but about mid flower you want those nights to get to around 68 Degrees That will give you great colors and day you want to cap at 75 that will help with the swelling and the Rh should be lights on 60% and late flower you want 55-58% lights on now lights off you want the rh to stay low or mold can form I change my rh by the plant look and how the leafs feel to the touch if they feel heavy and look to have swallen parts then the Rh is to high and the plant can’t sweat out the excess moisture. it needs to be able To sweat so the stoma (I might have the name wrong) can open and take up the nuits you are providing for those big colas to form. But as it looks now you are good for atleast 4 weeks. Rh plays a huge role in water and nuits uptakes and it seems once you get that part dialed in you will be on auto pilot but they look good also if you had nitrogen toxicity it will take about 2 sets of new growth to see how she is doing so only mild changes nothing to drastic

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Definitely something to think. Everything about my grow space is only getting better. It’s just a pain to get there.
I have two exhaust fans running there now which has helped a bunch. I may just have to stick the dehumidifier in there.
Kinda seems pointless with all the water in there… just sayin. Thanks for the suggestions.

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I kept my dehumidifier in the grow space too: watch for temps to go up.

I am in the stage of envisioning my new grow space (after moving) and thought what would be good would be to build a ‘box’ that houses a/c, dehumidifier, heater etc and use that to condition a volume of air that the grow space can draw from. If it’s instrumented properly I think that would help a bunch to keep conditions near optimal.

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One thing I’ve found in researching and studying my space is, it’s too small for two plants (maybe) because the only way for me to control the environment is from within the adjacent room in which the air comes from. They don’t make an AC unit small enough for a 5’ x 10’ x 8’ sealed room. It will cool plenty if I had an intake hose and an output hose but it won’t dehumidify properly so I’d be back to square one.
The AC has to be able to stay on long enough to cool and for it to dehumidify. Too big and it will cut AC will cut off to quick therefor stopping the de-humidification, too small and it wont cool enough

A split unit would be ideal but is impossible for me to install currently. If I were you and could consider a split unit in your room, I would highly recommend it. It would have heat and AC so that would also help with the humidity. It’s probably a sure way to control the environment in that one room. That would also help you from exhausting the air from the rest of the house. Just IMHO!

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I think it was imSICKkid or Bogleg that posted the cost. If you purchase it by the 40# bag this is the most cost effective @Jstar you literally use just few grams at a time.

I’m still in the process of envisioning my grow environment. Hoping I can get it dialed in for a successful grow. A little nervous being in the garage, but it shares a wall with the heated living room.

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@Jstar Your not the only one who splits stems…lol
I didn’t even know it till yesterday. It’s been that way for a min. Never slowed her down that I could tell.

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I broke the top on my strawberry Cough just the other day. It’s still connected, so… letting it ride.

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You might paint some liquid rubber on the injury to keep stem rot from forming.

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Mine too! Did not even droop at all! Worried for nothing.

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I grow 2 plants in a 4x4 tent so if you are 5x10x8 that’s plenty of room for 2 plants

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I’ve got plenty of room for the plants. The hard part is getting the climate in the room closer to ideal.

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