DWC Purple Haze

I like it.

1 Like

14 strips is correct like @ItsPat said, nice job. One thing I would look at before getting too deep, is that strip available? Eb gen 3 was released last winter and I’m not sure who if anyone is stocking the gen 2 strips. Going to gen 3 they have a new “slim line” available, it’s roughly half inch wide and a little longer. But different voltage and current specs, so could help or hurt design based on needs and availability.

As far as spacing, would probably have to be pretty tight if using model you posted. That light would be good for +/- 6 square feet. They’re an inch wide and 22" long. If you made fixture 2’x2’ that’s less than 1" spacing if done equally. Roadrunner on lab forum has one I did using those exact parts for his 2’x3’ grow box. It is 24"x18", and has strips arranged in two banks of 7, each has strips right next to each other and then there’s something like 4" gap between each bank of strips in center of fixture. Seems to working well for him. Can’t remember if you are member there? If not, maybe someone can steal a pic of it. I’m not allowed there anymore :rofl:

2 Likes

Hey @dbrn32 I appreciate you getting back to me on that. I knew you had been out of pocket for a min. Hope all is well. I understood what @ItsPat said and how he got there which I appreciate very much. I was more curious as to whether or not I could extend the gap between my light strips to spread them out. But, after Pat said what he did, I scratched that Idea. I have enough light strips of that model to make enough lights when I’m ready. I bought enough lights and drivers to make four 2x2 panels.

I am trying to make the best out of a less than ideal grow situation till winter where I can get up in the attic and run another circuit for more power to my grow room. I have everything in there ran on a 20 amp GFCI circuit breaker. Right now I have:
Chiller
Grow light
Water Pump
Exhaust Fan
Circulating Fan
2 Air Pumps
and a clamp on lamp to see down in my res.

I was kind of hoping someone could tell me whether or not you think this equipment is too much for a 20 amp breaker Or, maybe someone else has had this same challenge. I’m not much of an electrician but I do know enough to not get shocked…lol If you know any electricians, can you please direct them my way.

1 Like

Sounds like a great plan to me. If you already have the strips, you can do a lot with them. 11 strips on hlg-240h-c1050a works too, but you would want to do individual heatsinks for strips instead of like a plate build. That light would give you more like 3x3 coverage and support spreading strips out a little more. Would make more sense with individual heatsinks too.

Looking at your list, what is current draw on the chiller? When you say light, is that a single hlg-185 driver, or what are we looking at there?

1 Like

Without breaking open the wires to get to the hot wire, how would I figure that out? The website says 190 watts so amps would be around 1.5 amps.
One light is pulling 1.1 amps. Maxed out is 1.6 amps. I’m assuming the other light pulls about the same?
I got into the panel box and measured the amps on the breaker right now with everything running is 4.5 amps. But I may still need either an AC or a dehumidifier. Either way, I think I’m gonna need an 8 inch exhaust fan instead of the 6 inch to get that hot air out of the room. Temp has gone up from 80 to 84 degrees. I’m not so much concerned about the temp as I am the humidity.

I went ahead and hung another light that I had already made. Both are identical lights.
Here is what I got right now.

There at about 18” from the tops.

2 Likes

Usually a label on cord or near where cord comes out of unit will tell you current. Like your light, at maximum load could pull about 2 amps. FWIW I put the one I built on killawatt and pulled about 225 watts. Actual current is usually a little higher than nameplate and you have driver losses too.

1 Like

Well I cut the driver all the way up and I got 1.6 amps. I’m only running about 3/4 way up because it gets pretty hot.

1 Like

Measuring with clamp on?

1 Like

That’s correct

1 Like

There’s usually some wiggle room there. Also some voltage droop as heat increases, not too bad though.

I should be ok with it like that right?

1 Like

Yup. I think you’re in good shape right now. Size of ac unit would be worth looking at if you need it.

1 Like

The only problem with the AC is they don’t make one small enough to be efficient for my room. I need a dual hose, and the smallest I could get is I think either a 11k or a 14k btu I need a 5k. Its supper inefficient to have a one hose running out into the attic because then you just pull air in from windows doors and attic duct work. A one hose will cool a 5’ x 10’ room too quick without dehumidifying it properly. A dual hose will do the job but shezzz!, I don’t want to grow ice cycles in there. So what do you do?? :thinking:

2 Likes

Why not condition a plenum that you can then draw your air from? Inside would be A/C, heater, dehumidifier etc as needed.

2 Likes

Look to see how small of a DIY ductless unit you can get. Will solve all hose issues and be a lot more efficient. I don’t think they make one that small though.

1 Like

@dbrn32 @Myfriendis410 Thanks for the great ideas. I really appreciate y’all walking and talking me through all this.

@Myfriendis410 how bad did your purple haze stretch?

2 Likes

Probably 20% or so. Not bad if you have Gucci lights (which you do)

1 Like

@Myfriendis410 @Bogleg @BetrayedSoul @ItsPat @Grandaddy013 @Member420 @repins12 @Bulldognuts @BigDaddyCain @Covertgrower

Ok so I’ve got a little nute issue. My question is, I was planning on doing a water change tomorrow, putting on the scrog and flipping the lights, is this bad enough to halt the flipping or are the ok? Or should I get them under control first.

And a little group shot since they just woke up.

5 Likes

I’m thinking they are just hungry. The PPM’s have dropped down to 570.

1 Like

Not too bad looking. I would keep on with the plan!

3 Likes