Droopy leaves/stunted growth need help!

@Myfriendis410 appreciate the info.

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@merlin44 so when i was putting the meter in water readings were going up and down i did calibration with 7.01 and 4.01 solutions but problem was still the same, that’s when I decided to get a new one and i calibrated it once i got it.

Well I’m trying my best with these babies, thank you.

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PH meters are constructed with a glass bulb that one filament is embedded in. This is a special glass that must remain wet. You can buy storage solution or use the 4.01 solution: put a few drops in the cap and put back over the probe. If the glass dries out it will crack.

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@Myfriendis410, hello hope everyone is alright, so an update on the girls, it’s been 1 week since I flipped them into 12/12 they r doing great except for one of them it’s upper leaves are clawing,

I’ve read that it’s probably a Nitrogen toxicity, what do you all think?


And here are some pics for the other three girls,



They r getting bushy and started to stretch!

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Likely that is the case. Mobile nutrient excess (up high on plant) with clawing would be N tox. Unless it gets worse I’d keep feeding as you are. That said; plant is going to need less N as it enters flower. More P and K for flower production.

@Myfriendis410, I’m still feeding them “ Transition Feeding ” from GH feeding chart, should I start “early bloom feeding”?

And when do i start counting for “flowering weeks”
From the time i flipped to 12/12 or when I start to see flowers actually forming? Since these seeds are unknown to me.

Usually about two weeks after flipping to 12/12.

I like to give the plants a good course of higher P and K as I transition to flower. It seems that the plant appreciates having the flowering nutes available before actual flowers tends to help.

@Myfriendis410, so I should start giving them “early bloom” nuts? since I’ve been feeding them “ Transition nuts” for over two weeks.

I’d use the early bloom formula.

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@Myfriendis410 so it’s been 26 days since i flipped light into 12/12 cycle, all went alright Until one week ago leaves started to get purplish/yellow, i did some research about it some articles says that cannabis leaves tent to get purplish if temperature goes down to 65 and beneath and my temp when light is off is around 66 do u think that’s the case? , I’m currently feeding them mid-bloom formula according to GH schedule.




My current grow gets down to 61 at night and I’m at about the same point: nice green leaves.

You may be showing a bit of P def: if you aren’t supplementing I’d start and if you are you may want to bump up the numbers a bit.

That said it’s normal to see degrading leaves in flower.

@Myfriendis410 i have bumped up bloom nut last week since they got into mid-bloom, so I’m feeding mid-bloom formula now, I’ll keep my eyes on them to see if i need to give them more P.

I’ve noticed that some leaf tips r burned and clawing up is it related to high temps? Sometimes when light is on temps reach 80f





You did good to bump up the nutes, leaves may not improve from existing damage but not uncommon. Lots of deficiencies appear in flower on many plants and there’s really nothing you can do for it except what you’re doing now.

If you are concerned with excessive nutrient load in media, do a runoff TDS/PH test to see the concentration: you may want to change things up a bit if you see high levels.

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@Myfriendis410 I’ll check the runoff when i water them next time and will let u know, thank you.

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@Myfriendis410, so plants r in a stable condition no more yellow/purple leaves, now I’ve noticed some dark brown spots on one of the plants leaves, i watered them today only with fresh R/O water with a bit of cal-mag and 1 T/SP of Recharge ppms were 215 and i P.H it to 6.5(I’m doing 3 feedings 1 fresh water irrigation according to GH feeding schedule).

so i did a runoff TDS/PH test, two big plants one of them was 2780ppms PH 6.3(the one with dark brown spots), other one was around 2444ppms PH 6.4, two other small plants where around 1800ppms and PH were around 5.8,

I suppose this PH difference isn’t good specially for the two small plants, and i have a bit of excessive nutrient load in media yeah?




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If were my plants I would water with R/O only until PPM’s drop to around 2,000 before resuming any feeding. Late in flower the plants reduce their demands for nutrients and tend to extract from it’s own tissues as it’s in the process of dying.

I don’t see anything to be worried about at this point.

It’s also normal for media to drop in PH late in flower.

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@Myfriendis410, so I’ve seen videos and read articles about watering fresh water only before harvest, since these plants strain is unknown, is there any way to tell when to stop feeding before harvest?, as for harvest I’ve bought a micro telescope to check the Trichomes, I’m not really depending on flowering time to determine when to harvest.

You will have to determine (based on the plant) your approximate harvest time. Once you have an idea, just go to water only about two weeks before.

The last couple of grows I didn’t bother and fed Jack’s right up to harvest, with the caveat that the plants don’t need high concentrations those last couple of weeks. Monitoring runoff TDS will also help to see when plants begin to shut down as salt levels will continue to rise. I also see a big reduction in water demand those last couple of weeks.

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@Myfriendis410, that cleared a lot thank you.

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@Myfriendis410, I’m sorry i know i ask a lot but this is my first grow, please bear with me thank you.

So I’ve noticed leaves r getting yellowish/purplish and some of them falling again, that’s exactly as what happened the last time when i only watered them with only R/O water with a bit of Cal-Mag, does that means I should keep feeding them with nuts, like 4-5 times feeding to 1 R/O fresh water?

Here r two pics one is before i watered them with R/O water two days ago and the other one is taken now,

Before


After

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