Cool! I wasnt too worried, just found this more interesting lol
Are you using cal mag?
@Bluntsmoke i am, yes, ive been having a calcium, and magnesium issues, so i just upped the calmag last night along with all other nutes
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Remember this is at the 700 scale. That 2100 is really 1500 at 500 scale. I was a ff guy for quite a while, but jacks is easier and better imo. Any method done correct will grow fire tho. Best of luck
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Can you give a quick explanation as to what that means? Ive never heard of that before, i saw it says PPM (700 scale) on the feeding schedule but never thought anything of it
Maybe this will help. You basically read the solution’s conductivity in EC, and use a multiplier to determine the PPM.
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I think that actually helped alot. It looks like my meter runs on the 500 scale?currently getting readings of 1093 PPM and 2325 EC
@Sweenzzzz i ran in to the same issue with the fox farm schedule. I had a 500 scale pen and the numbers just never made sense. Finally got a Truncheon from Bluelab that displays 5 and 700. Also it looked like youre growing hydro. If so that is the wrong feeding schedule.
Hope this helps
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@newt this helps alot! Only this is different for me is I use the hydro feeding schedule, I am looking to buy a gallon of each asap, I am running low on on the big bloom fast!! I started out getting the FF dirty dozen bundle, And it seems like everything will last some time except that big bloom!
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I buy the trio in gallons, and the others in quarts. But they all end up empty at different times anyway. 
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Yes i am growing hydro, and i do use the hydro feeding schedule, i NEED to upgrade my PH and TDS meters, i like my TDS meter for the most part but could use a higher quailty one, my ph meter on the other hand could 100% be better, i really wanna get a PH controller with a pump to automatically PH my water to 5.8 as needed because my PH fluctuates so bad that i adjust it in the morning to 5.8 and by 3pm its back up to 6.3, but at the same time i feel as though that would leave too much room for random error for me to be comfortable, but ive been looking into this, been thinking about getting it and testing it in an empty reservoir (only water no plant) for like a month before i even think about trusting it with an actual plant reservoir
@Sweenzzzz, are you the one who was planning to use a mini refrigerator, and some tubing to cool your reservoir? If so how did that work out for you?
I sure am, have not been able to get the fridge yet and ive still been stuck adding frozen water bottles to the reservoir, thats sub par. It gets my water temp down to a good range for a few hours at a time, but when im at work for 10+ hours a day they dont last, just waiting for my co worker to finally drop off the fridge for me then ill be able to get started on that project, hopefully i get that figured out before i flip to flower in two weeks from today
I am no hydro expert! But on my first recent hydro grow, I was over feeding and the ph was always dropping like a rock. On a following grow grow I had problems with the pots not draining, and this caused problems with root rot. This made the ph stay high.
Cooler temperatures and peroxide really helped in my grows.
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After i upped my nutes the other night ive noticed these passed few days that my PH actually hasnt been fluctuating nearly as much (this morning it wasnt even at 6.0 yet, where as normal over night fluctuations, 10:30pm-8am, would start at 5.77 and be at 6.3-7, with the fresh water coming out my tap at 8.5 
) , though this water has also been in the reservoir for awhile now and is due to be changed, so the ph could just start to be settling down abit now, but im thinking i should wait until next monday to change the reservoir as i already plan to flush, refeed and add open sesame then, as monday in two weeks i will be flipping lighting to 12/12, will waiting that long to change the reservoir cause any negative impact to my plant?
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If you are on that FF hydro schedule. I would follow it to the “T”. It calls for a flush with their product at least every three weeks, and at the flip. I wouldn’t second guess the nutrient amounts. I find it easier to read my nutrients level in just EC. Since my nutrient line, like the FF schedule gives this parameter in EC.
Also you may want to check the EC of your tap water, and add this amount to your nutrient set point.
I think peroxide will kill off the microbe charge that is in the FF schedule.
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Peroxide will in fact kill microbes, so i tend to avoid using peroxide, i am ordering a RO system today so the tap water will no longer be an issue, but im sure ill still have to PH it to 5.8, but i dont know that for a fact, this will be my first RO system so itll be a quick learning curve for me, i looked back and my last flush was actually just after the start of week 5 (now on week 6 as of yesterday) so the water in the reservoir is fresher than i was originally thinking