If you’re in living soil, I wouldn’t recommend flushing.
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@BobbyDigital has you covered here
Note the ppm recommendations fox farms give per week.
Read your run off after week 4 and see if you need to top up that number if you do add whatever the difference is (in ppm) with a nutrient mix as per directions but then diluted to the right amount and ph’d.
You mix up a batch with what they recommend first and dilute so you get the ratios correct.
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this is what fox farm sent me regarding the sledgehammer flush.
Thank you for contacting FoxFarm! I would be happy to help.
When performing the Sledgehammer flush you will make the solution as it is requested in the Feeding Schedule and drench the soil with the solution. You will want to use about twice as much solution when flushing as you do when you are normally feeding or watering. After this step you will allow the top inch of soil to dry normally. You do not need to rinse the soil after the flush. Once the soil is dry you can continue on with your feeding as regularly scheduled.
If you have any other questions please do not hesitate to contact us. To learn more about our company, new products, and download our latest feeding schedules please visit www.FoxFarm.com.
Genevieve
I responded.
ello.
Thank you for your response.
I just want to get this straight. I normally use 2 gallons of water when I feed/water. So I should mix up what the schedule says per gallon for the sledgehammer and use 4 gallons. Let it sit until the pots are dry as normal then continue the schedule? No rinsing no 5 times the amount of the pot size. just twice the amount as normal with the sledgehammer added to the water per feeding table?
they responded
That is correct. You will simply flush with the four gallons, let the soil dry and continue feedings per the Soil Feeding Schedule.
Thank you,
I dunno it seems sketchy to me to leave it in the soil. lol.
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I rarely get runoff because I’m in a ten-gallon and it’s got water holding and draining properties. Should I water to runoff to get the 10% back and test that?
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@Jackie_Daytona I agree man. That stuff is like soap. Don’t know if I want that hanging out around the root tips and the little tribe. Very sketch.
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@BobbyDigital is there any particular feeding you do on Day Zero (the day the lights go out for 12 the first time that night)? When do you feed in flower if following the feeding schedule? In other words, if I flipped her on a Monday, would I feed her the first feeding that day?
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Or with lots of water.
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I typically don’t feed until a week or two into flower because the soils I’ve used have had enough nutrients in it to sustain the plants until then. I don’t start feed until my soil ppms are down in the 600-700 area.
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Well, that’s not entirely true. Forgot to mention I do add open sesame at light flip.
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That’s what I’m about to use first when I flip (used the other day because I misread a reply to a question I asked a forum buddy and burnt the tips). What part of the recommended full dosage for soil would you suggest… 1/3-1/2?
@BobbyDigital ya gotta love the fact that the official ff feeding schedule suggest using Boomerang for the first SEVEN WEEKS STRAIGHT!!! 
You think they expect your plant to be scorched?
For the open sesame, beastie blooms and cha ching I use 1/4 tsp once per week in the weeks listed on the chart.
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So you used the full recommended amount? That’s interesting. Most people say they burn their plants badly when they use full strength. You must have some BEASTS!
Why people started recommending to start at 1/4-1/2 strength is because people were using the chart from week 1 when their soil was still hot with nutrients. If you’re using a medium like coco you can start with week 1. Soils like ocean forest, roots organic, happy frog, big rootz, etc are already packed with nutes and adding more on top of that will burn your plants.
I’ve never given plants nutrients during veg. I’ve used all the soils listed above and it wasn’t until flower that the soil finally depleted enough to actually add nutes.
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@BobbyDigital you’re definitely right about FFOF. The only reason I’m able to feed on top of that is because she has a big root system from SmartPots and is very energy efficient. I took over 30 clones because of how hardy she is.
Latest group. I found they take TOO MUCH WORK when rooting in soil, and I don’t know how easy rock wool is when compared to full water immersion. Plus… the humidity is not necessary to monitor when they are directly in water. I usually cut the clone at 45°, scrape the ends of the cutting, and split it up the middle about 1/4” deep. I use rooting gel, but I’m out right now, so I used Bonide powder. After just 2-3 days, some of these have small roots coming from the inside of the split at the end of the stem, and some have small roots developing on the outside, but the majority are still waiting.
Just wanted to see if anyone knows what may have caused these leaves to look like this? I had to remove them because I didn’t have my phone on me. Tried my best to get the lighting good enough to see the issue. The only reason it worries me is that I’ve been meaning to flip her for a week or two and different issues have stopped me. I don’t want to start flowering with a lockout or toxicity. Thanks for any help 
By the way…these were from about 1/3 of the way from the soil level; basically the bottom of the leaves I left when I stripped it several days ago. Don’t know if it could be stress either?
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