Deep Water Deep hurting

I transitioned eight seeds from germination/seedling into Deep Water Culture (DWC) buckets on January One, 2019.
I have seeds from several different vendors, Acapulco Gold, White Widow Extreme, LSD and Ice (two of each species)

My first indoor modern grow was last spring/summer I tried a Nutrient Film Technique grow and it had a massive fail just after the plants went into flower. This was entirely my fault and had to do with the way the set up was (poorly) engineered.

I managed to save one plant from that experimental grow and I tranferred it to DWC set up. That plant lived on my deck until it died of old age (it was a cheap non-feminzed seed that grew up male).

So for this grow I decided on DWC.
Below you’ll see the day they went into pots (Jan 1 of this year).

The plants were started in that dark brown material that resembles a natural sponge.
I placed the sponge in the hydrotin pellets then surrounded the sponge with a little coco coir to hold water until their roots could reach the reservoir or at least pick up the ambient moisture the airstones create.

This is one of my taller plants one week later:

With 8 buckets I’d wind up with slightly different PH and TDS in each bucket.
In general I started out with Ph’s ranging from 5.5 -6.5, TDS as low as 530 up to 710.
I ran one bucket at 980 that first week (way too high but that particular plant developed the most awesome roots system of all my plants.
Still I had leaf burning and other problems from too much nutes, so in that vein I’ve gotten more conservative with my nutes.

If you’re interested in problems tied to things other than nutes, lighting or plants, you can check out my grow room post.
I’m aiming to dispense usable data so if I mess up I’ll tell you, and try to tell you specifically how I erred.

By my second week I noticed an algae problem in my reservoirs.
The primary cause for this was the view tubes I installed on all my buckets (for more on this see my grow room post).
Beyond addressing the view tubes, I bought a product called hydrogard and put 2ml/gal in each of my buckets with each weekly water change.
I saw definite uptick in root health after applying the hydrogard.
Week 2 Jan 14

This next plant (from week 2) is the one that was over fertilized:

Note the tip burning on the leaf edges.
Here is Acapulco Gold #1 at week 3:

Here is the over fertilized plant at week 3:

This is week 5 and the plants are getting ready to go into flower:

This was the week when the over fertilization was really showing up in leaf damage

All the buckets had a TDS of over 900PPM.

More to follow.

900PPM alone is not your issue I run at 1100. It is likely microbes in your rockwool attacking your stem and roots. Hydroguard may help slightly but a good flush of your rockwool/stones will help a lot more to wash off/out any nasty microbes. Keep the water level below the netpots so the rockwool is not waterlogged and can drain/dry out a bit. BTW that white on your stones is likely mold and I bet your stones are black/green underneath the surface with slimy anerobes. If you are using soil instead of rockwool it’s probably the same issue. It’s OK if you wash out the dirt since it will make a mess of your DWC’s anyway.


Great info thanks.
Today is solution change so I’m going to look into this.
I’m not sure if this is significant data or not but my net pots are a good four inches above the water level.
Regardless thanks again and I’ll update after the solution change.

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Your plants tops are very healthy, so they are likely growing through the situation. It doesn’t look like a major issue as most of the lower leaves will be cut off anyway. Still a concern, but if you get more air to the root base the better you will be.

Anywhere with leaf necrosis cut off. With a DWC plant you’ll be cutting a lot off


Deep Water Deep Hurting cont. . .
I rechecked my calendar and technically these girls went into DWC on Dec. 26.
So the plants in this post are now 10 weeks old.

Earlier WickedAle had asked about mold or slime on my hydrotin.
I’m pretty sure the white marks are a salt deposit as the hydrotin is bone dry all the way down to the bottom of the net pot.
No slime or mold seems present and as I mentioned above my solution level remains about 4 inches below the bottoms of the net pots.
In this picture you maybe able to make out the hydrotin, you’ll notice there is no green or black slime.

I’m pretty sure by the ends of my solution change cycles the TDS was getting high enough to burn leaves.
I also added some unsulphered black strap molasses to one of the solution tanks.
This is the plant that got the molasses.

Next solution change we’ll see if the molasses caused problems.

Ughh. I added brown sugar. Nasty snot infested roots. Cannot use organics in DWC. Will grow nasties and very tough to get rid of. Use base nutes and 3% h202 and maybe the plant roots will recover. I just flushed and cut them down since I was 2 weeks out anyway.

I tried it on one of my punier plants.
If it kills the plant I won’t be out much.
I researched adding molasses.
The jury seemed split.
I put my molasses into solution many days ago.
When I added it to the solution tank it was still completely in solution.

We’ll see.

Your roots should be bright white. Yours are brown. Anaerobic bacteria attack the sugar and roots and throw out nasty toxins. Think of swamp water. They will deoxygenate water quickly leaving no air for the roots. You will start to see root sheding and deterioration and very unclear water. I would get that moleasses out as fast as possible. From personal experience in DWC it’s nasty.

I would wrap your buckets in duct tape or cover them to help prevent light from getting in I never tried molasses in hydro it seems like a bad idea to me