Well you’ll be fine for now. Maybe on your next grow.
But don’t get me wrong. You can top or trim… them right now
, but…your plants will have to recover and that takes time.
By the way your plants look real good.
Will is right, I would not top them, not enough time for them to get bushy. Well you know how to top them not… You might start some clones off them if you have enough time for the clone to get bushy? I’m not sure when you are live so can’t really help on that.
I live in southern Ohio but my plan is to get clones off these plants and start my first indoor grow I started another forum about lighting maybe you good could help I was looking for pictures and details of some good set ups I’m a visual physical learner and I just haven’t seen many set ups to go by
But as far as the topping it’s already starting to get down in sixties I’m afraid I planned them to late also they talk about the flowering stage you can’t have even a little bit of light car lights hit my house at night will that really stop then from flowering right
kcson you should be in your 5th week of flowering it could delay it
Try to block off as much Light as possible from getting to your plants.
Use your imagination…lol
As far as lighting go’s we need more info. Like, growing in what? Size of it and so on.
I generally am not a proponent of topping, but in this case, I would top them about 8-12" down where the canopy spreads out. Then I would re-root, the tops as clones by sticking each one in a new 1 gallon pot full of soil.
Oh yeah; You will be surprised how much those plants will bud up… As long as you can get the grow in before it gets too cold.
Livewire what do you think I should do well they be ok outside or I am going next week…payday… to get my lights and equipment for my first inside grow do you think I should bring them inside and start flowering them then or should I bring them in and maybe keep in vegetive stage little longer and I asked on another forum but looking for answers on best lights to use I have a 3x8x15 but I’m thinking of lowering the ceiling thanks for quick answers also to everyone that has helped
Garrigan I am basically going to turn my closet into a grow room it is 3x8x15 I am going to drop the ceiling most likely but I’ll be growing in soil in five gallon buckets one they are ready I’ve already got it cleaned and I’ve bleached the entire room I was going to paint it but then decided I’m going to buy the aluminum board that has like Styrofoam it’s like divider walls I also am going to buy lights if you can give any advice it’d be appreciated I’ve got some in mind as I’ve red the bible here and looked up many other sites…I started this grow which you have seen and now I’m addicted lol ok I think that is everything hope to hear from you soon thank you later
Check this link out. I beleive you have 24 ft of grow space. So this should do you for veg and flower. Now I would use the MH/ bulb for veg and HPS for flower.
Alright thank you so much for that I have it locked down and ready to buy also got a fan, vent duct, and thermostat was going top get this carbon filter for the smell but it ships thru different company so going to get it little later…But before I do I wanna ask should I get the 600 watt or the 1000watt and will only one set up take care of all plants in this space
This is something that isn’t covered much anywhere I’ve looked but when is the plant actually considered to be in it’s vegetative stage meaning when is the actual growing part considered done this answer would help me out with numerous things thank you also how long can you grow a plant how long can you keep it in vegetative stage
This is only my opinion, Latewood would know better than I.
And that’s a good question. I believe it would or could start when the plant starts it’s nutrient regiment which is when the plant has 5 to 6 true set’s of leaves. So I would say right about at this stage vegging would start.
You can keep a plant indefinitely in veg stage.
And a 1000 watt HPS. @ 140000 lumens would work. But you. Would have to keep control of your heat.
Hope this helps
Hi latewood garrigan has turned me on to you he said you would know little better I wrote a couple questions towards the end of this page about if I should get the 600 watt set up or the 1000 the 600 is in my price range but of 1000 would work better I’ll get it and the question of when is the growing stage over and the vegetative stage start thanks allot
David, Stoner wrote this not to long ago. I hope this helps
"I don’t know about all the special lights, but l know you do need enough light for the plant’s stage of growth. Also you do need at least both the two frequencies of blue and two of red covered in the light spectrum provided to the plants. Most lights rated with a color rating of 5000-6500 K will cover these colors and are a relatively close equivalent to the color of the sunlight.
Seedlings and clones require about 400-1000 lumens per square foot.
Vegetative growth requires about a minimum of 2,000 to 3,000 lumens per square foot.
Flowering requires about 5,000 to 10,000 lumens per square foot, ideally, and can take possibly much more.
10,000 lumens is supposed to be about the average power of the sun at sea level on a clear day at high noon, or something like that, lol. 8,000 – 12,000 lumens is supposed to be about the average power of the full sun without any overcast or no clouds depending on altitude and potentially other factors.
When looking at this from an electrical usage standpoint, this means you need about 50 watts of actual electricity used by the light per square foot, no matter what type of light you use. Except old fashioned incandescent lights, even at 50 watts they won’t provide what a plant needs to stay healthy, but CFLs with the color rating mentioned above will provide a healthy balance of the light a plant needs. And of course “special” horticultural LEDs, T5s, CFLs, and HIDs at 50 watts per square foot will also provide everything a plant needs to stay healthy. If you notice, you can use half, or significantly less, the watts for veg that you would use for flower.
When growing in a container, for the most part, you can’t expect the soil to provide enough nutrients for the plant for the entire life cycle. So you will wan’t to feed it with something for most of its life, but you don’t absolutely have to buy or use specialty name brand nutrients. But you do need to provide enough of the right nutrients to be able to get your plant to yield its max potential.
Of course download and checkout the free e-book, it will help you get started no matter what you decide to get or how you decide to grow.
Hope this helps,
Wow that helped tremendously I wasn’t to thank you garrigan you have helped me wrote a bit and it’s much appreciated I got the 1000 watt I can always raise the light or turn down only if I have to but according to that last message I should be good with what I got… now I’ve tried looking it up but these lights mh and hps do they all have color spectrum of red and blue or do you buy certain red or blue bulbs
Some additional info that might help answer the red/blue questions.
MH can be tuned very precisely to the Kelvin color rating approximating the same ratios of red and blue that occur in natural sunlight. Natural sunlight has a K color rating of about 5500-6500. HPS has color rating of about 2700K. Plants can use more red than blue, and will stay healthy as long as about 20-30% of the light comes from the blue spectrum, and so this is why HPS does such a good job for growing even though it doesn’t match the ratio naturally found in sunlight.
MH lights can come in various K color ratings and may target specific spectra for supposedly better growing.
This is what spectra you need and what they do:
200 - 280 nm UVC ultraviolet range which is extremely harmful to cannabis plants because it is highly toxic.
280 - 315 nm Includes harmful UVB ultraviolet light which causes cannabis plants colors to fade.
315 - 380 nm Range of UVA ultraviolet light which is neither harmful nor beneficial to cannabis plant growth.
380 - 400 nm Start of visible light spectrum. Process of chlorophyll absorption begins. UV protected plastics ideally block out any light below this range.
400 - 520 nm This range includes violet, blue, and green bands. Peak absorption by chlorophyll occurs, and a strong influence on photosynthesis. (promotes vegetative growth)
520 - 610 nm This range includes the green, yellow, and orange bands and has less absorption by pigments.
610 - 720 nm This is the red band. Large amount of absorption by chlorophyll occurs, and most significant influence on photosynthesis. (promotes flowering and budding)
720 - 1000 nm There is little absorption by chlorophyll here. Flowering and germination is influenced. At the high end of the band is infrared, which is heat.
Hope this helps,
As stated abover; Temperature control is your biggest issue. I love 1000 watt lamps, but since I got a 4x4’ grow tent, I find 400-600 watts a better fit, and easier to deal with; Especially for new growers that do not need added issues when learning to grow.
A bigger lamp means bigger yield, if you can control the heat (70-70f/'20-25c) and humidity.
After using a 400 watt digital for the past year or so; I have just purchased a 600 watt Ipower for my 4x4’ tent. The 400 was adequate, but did nto provide the light intensity I expect, and the buds are coming out a bit “airy”.
I will use my 400 watt for a “side light”. This will at least double the yield from the under-canopy.